Honeywell R7284 Oil Primary Turning Off

Wesarszyla

Hello, so I got a new Honeywell thermostat, had it installed correctly and I know the burner is working because we always have hot water with no issues. It was cold today so I went to put the hot air on and after a couple minutes of running, the oil primary control turns off and doesn’t respond to any of the controls. It’s fairly new as well, I got it installed within the last year so I don’t think that’s the issue. I was watching the ohms and cad cell and they were running between 1300-1500. I can still hear the burner making noise and when I turn off the emergency switch it stops making noise and when I turn it back on I still hear something running. I just want to know if someone has a solution before I call a person to come and charge me 800 dollars for something I might be able to do myself.

STEVEusaPA

For whatever reason, your burner is not running correctly and/or your cad cell may not be properly seeing the flame. It's nothing you should try to fix yourself as any change in combustion (nozzle, air adjustments, etc). will require a full combustion test by a competent oil burner tech.

pedmec

do you have any errors codes on the primary controller? if not then something else is most likely cutting off the call for heat.

Wesarszyla

pedmec said:

do you have any errors codes on the primary controller? if not then something else is most likely cutting off the call for heat.

No error code, it just turns off. I realized the thermostat in my bedroom just isn’t giving any signals to the burner because they heat won’t go on at all in there. My den is also on a seperate thermostat and it runs fine with that one on. I’m gonna replace the one in my bedroom to the new one I had installed for the rest of the house and see if that clears up the problem

pedmec

You can just jump the thermostat out. Connect the red and white together and see what happens. I would also, If it runs normal after jumping the thermostat out, check all the settings in the thermostat. Digital thermostats have a ton of parameters built into them that need to be set at time of installation. One wrong setting and your not getting heat or lack of heat. most thermostats work with multiple types of equipment. And now everybody wants wireless capability lol.

EdTheHeaterMan

@Wesarszyla, Sounds like there may be a zone control in the mix. Is there? If there is no zone control, and you have 2 thermostats operating one primary control, then there may be something the electronic control does not like about the way the technician installed the thermostat wires to the boiler control. Zone controls include zone valves, Zone valves with a Zone Control Relay, Separate circulator pumps with a relay for each pump, or a Zone Control Relay that operates multiple pumps to name a few options

In your case there should be a triple aquastat relay (most common on old boilers is the L8124? xxxx relay) that controls the circulator pump(s) that sends the water thru the system to the baseboards or other type radiators. The R7224 is most likely not the problem. My guess is the call for heat is operating the burner until it reaches the high limit. Usually only 20° higher than the Low Limit for DHW setting. That may only take a minute or two. If the boiler water is not circulating, then the burner will stop and wait up to 20 minutes or more for the boiler to cool off enough for the burner operate again. it will take less than 2 minutes to get the water temperature back up the to the HI limit temperature again. So it appears that something is wrong with the burner, when it is the limit control operating normally.

You will want to see if there is air in the wet side of the system that is blocking water flow to the radiators. Is there a valve closed? Has the circulator pump failed? Could be so many things. You want to check for air in the system if you know how to remove air from your system. If you do not knowhow, then it is time for a service call.

STEVEusaPA

The primary is not wired using best practices. The display should be lit up all the time if the heater (boiler) has power. Requires running a 3 wire from the limit to the primary, picking up constant power for the display and post purge (if there's an oil valve).