Friday Fun

New England SteamWorks

Customer says it has never heated...

mattmia2

Is there a way to make that work without adding a drip to a wet return?

I guess you could put a water seal trap in one of the runouts and put a vent on that end.

JUGHNE

Or start with steam vents??

mattmia2

JUGHNE said:

Or start with steam vents??

You still need to control how the steam enters, you need to make it prefer one lateral over the other somehow so it will reach the rest of the radiator before it reaches the vent.

JUGHNE

I have seen one of these CI BB's in the field.

Are they a U shaped tube inside? Is the end we do not see tied together as a return bend?

Phil53

Just needs a steam trap or vent to make it work I think.

Phil53

It's set up for hot water but these can be used for hot water or steam.

EdTheHeaterMan

Anyone who has taken a Steam Seminar from @DanHolohan knows that those arrows on the pipe need to be on the inside, so the steam knows which way top go!

Dah!

Gsmith

Those look like hygroscopic valves, which are supposed to close when the moisture in the steam gets to the little discs inside them, and which can work with steam but don't always. I have along (about 10 feet) similar cast iron baseboard connected at both ends similar to yours and it works fine. I did find it works better and gets hot all the way across when I used conventional adjustable radiator air valves like Vent-rite #1 adjustable valves (use the right angle kind on each end set them to slow setting--a low number on the dial) use a faster radiator vent valve in the center set slightly faster than the ends. you may have to experiment a bit with the settings so the steam goes to the top center vent which then closes and then the steam will go out the end vents there by fully heating the baseboard. You may also have to make up nipples, or 90 deg bends to get the vent to be able to be connected and oriented properly.