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Beckett on System 2K leaking
KyleO
Member Posts: 54
in Oil Heating
Hi geniuses, thanks in advance for your help!
My 4 year old System 2K with a Beckett head is leaking, I assume oil but not entirely sure. Some pictures attached, with the red arrows pointing to where I think it's leaking. It seems to be a super slow leak, but it's summer so only using it for hot water at the moment.
Any ideas what to do to fix this? Thanks!
My 4 year old System 2K with a Beckett head is leaking, I assume oil but not entirely sure. Some pictures attached, with the red arrows pointing to where I think it's leaking. It seems to be a super slow leak, but it's summer so only using it for hot water at the moment.
Any ideas what to do to fix this? Thanks!
0
Comments
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Could be a bad fuel unit seal. Time to call a pro. Where are you located?All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Or the burner is not pitched toward the boiler, or fouled combustion head0
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Thanks much. Anything I can do on my end to troubleshoot before calling in a pro?0
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Not really. Where are you located? We might know someone..................All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Check the prime port on the fuel pump. That takes a 3/8" box wrench or a small adjustable. Check the 3/16" copper tube that goes from the pump to the side of the burner housing. That takes a 7/16" open end wrench or a small adjustable. Do not use any type of pliers on either of those hex fitting surfaces. They are not supposed to be SUPER tight and therefore might work loose over time from the burner motor vibration. If you get any movement trying to tighten either of them, that means that they are not tight enough and may be the cause of the very small leak. Other than that, you need to call a pro.
If you feel that you did get about 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then you probably fixed it. BUT the leak will still show for several weeks as the leftover residue will take some time to dissipate.
Hope this helps
Mr.Ed
EDIT. After a closer look, those 5 locations do not look like they have any leakage, But I can't see the one close to the side of the burner housingEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Thanks so much for taking the time and helping @EdTheHeaterMan! Here's some more pics showing all those connections, which I verified are tight and not leaking (all dry and clean). Then another Pic showing the leak better, coming from the bottom. I think in 2 spots. It was serviced in March, by Meenan here in Long Island.0
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You could shut off the power. Open the igniter by loosening the two 5/16 hex screws and swing the arms out of the way.
Remove the two 3/8 bolts from the burner motor and pull it, and the coupling out.
When putting back in, make sure the coupling ends are tight and plumb on its body.
With the motor out, shine a flashlight in and check for oil around the pump shaft.
Best bet to make sure is to clean it all out with some rags. The motor and fan might have some oil on them too. Then recheck a day later.
When putting the motor back, line up the flats between motor and coupling. You can use one hand through the igniter opening to give a little wiggle back and forth to line it up.
After everything is back, make sure the fan spins freely before you turn the power back on.
If it is a bad pump seal, you'll need a pro. Out of the box fuel pumps are preset to 100 psi. Yours will need 130 psi and a combustion test.1 -
KyleO,
Please have your technician call for Tech Support on this issue while he is there. We have several action items on the list to be checked. We will also need to have a combustion test done to check for proper draft and burner set up. EK Tech Support 800-323-2066
Mitch"Mitch"
Roger Mitchell
Senior Technical Representative
Energy Kinetics1 -
Thanks for the pictures @KyleO. This looks like a job for a Pro and if your Pro calls EK tech support you will be in good hands.
The two other possibilities are that the fuel pump shaft seal is leaking. This can happen on a new pump if there is a shut off valve on the return pipe from the fuel pump to the tank (There should not be any restriction device like a check valve or any other type valve on a fuel return line by code). If there is one have the pro remove it. The seal can just wear cover time. The oil drip from the shaft seal will show up where you indicated your leak is. If there is a valve on the supply pipe from the tank to the pump, that is acceptable, and may be required by code.
Another source is the nozzle. As shown here, when the motor stops or the valve closes the nozzle may have some air in the high pressure tube. This air expands once the pressure of the pump stops. Here is an illustration of what it might look like. I captured these from GREYFURNACEMAN.com videos.
If the burner is properly mounted on the front of the boiler, there should be no leak. If however, someone allowed some weight to be exerted on the burner, the minimum 2° pitch indicated in this illustration might be compromised. As illustrated here.
EK Support will no doubt ask about both sources.
I hope this helps illustrate the possible problems and that it is not good to use the oil burner as a support to lift your self off the floor. Some oil burner mechanics were never taught that and I have seen them do just that.
Hope this helps
Mr. Ed
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Thanks so much for all the help and advice here! I opened it up and the nozzle was covered, so it was dripping down from there. Replaced the nozzle and seems to be back in business. Will monitor for a few days and come back if the problem resurfaces. Thanks again all, this is probably the best forum I've ever seen!0
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You're not done yet. Re-read Mitch's from EK's post. You can't just replace the nozzle and think you're problem is 'fixed'. The heat exchanger needs to be inspected and maybe cleaned, a full, proper combustion test, as well as some other checks as to why this problem happened in the first place.
What you love about the forum is the part I don't-giving h/o enough information to cause a real potential problem. The best advice in situations like yours, was to call in a pro, not take the burner apart yourself, with no knowledge, training or combustion equipment.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Roger that Steve, will do so! Thank you for the advice0
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