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WBV-03 Peerless Steam Boiler (new) Radiators (used)

Luv'nsteam Member Posts: 278
Brand new, never used, Peerless steam boiler
4 inch drop/swing header
Gifford loop
All valves
All near-boiler-piping
Hour meter
Float LWCO
Probe LWCO
All copper and brass has been clear coated
All steel/iron has been coated in VHT flat black

Schematic for electricals plus ladder schematic (it's all wired in series)
Radiator valves
Victorian radiators; most sand blasted, all primed and painted hammered copper
Pretty much everything in the pics, up to the unions and all parts shown

Never used; no feed water, oil supply, electricity or flu hooked up. Project stalled due to lack of funds and now I am selling it all. My loss is your gain.

Asking $6,000 for all of it
Cash, gold, silver, possible swap/cash deal
You remove. Having never been used and everything connected with unions, should be easily removed in no time (that's how I designed the installation)


  • Luv'nsteam
    Luv'nsteam Member Posts: 278
    Quite a bit of pipe insulation and PVC jackets for it, included, as well.
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,268
    Sorry to hijack your thread. I'm sure its worth every penny. Very cool radiators. And I like the unveiling of the burner in the last pic, you little tease.
    If a steam pro could please explain the pipe between the coil plate and return. I don't think I've ever seen that. And is it ok to put a gauge after the pigtail?
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 10,801
    My guess is that the upper plate pipe with ball valve is for skimming.
    Looks hard piped into a drain line along with other drain points.

    Even a length of clear plexi tubing to view the draining while skimming.

    First class install from what I see.

    Shame it has to go away.

    Usually always put a gauge after pigtail.
  • Luv'nsteam
    Luv'nsteam Member Posts: 278
    edited May 2022
    Thanks for the kind words. Everything I did, I did following all of Dan's instructions in Lost Art of Steam Heat, Greening Steam, and We Got Steam Heat, as I learned from them all. I installed every single safety, maintenance and control/clean out suggested in those amazing books with the exception of an outside thermistor. I had plans on using the system for two years to get a baseline and then convert the system from a vapor system to a vapor vacuum system. Alas, life had other plans.

    In case anyone is curious, the RED valve handles are normally closed and the GREEN valves are normally open. Please note, if you follow my lead and color code your valve handles, do not use Rustoleum on the vinyl handles, it took forever to dry (months!), lol.

    Did I install the gauges incorrectly on the pigtails?? ?
  • Luv'nsteam
    Luv'nsteam Member Posts: 278
    Oh, and all drains for skimming, clean out, blow-down, etc. are plumbed into a common drain pipe to control the flow and the clear sight glass is to easily see when you have accomplished your goal. Sight glass is made of steel fittings and polycarbonate tubing. And yes, the polycarbonate can easily handle the water temperature, if you're curious and it is assembled with very high temperature epoxy.
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 3,206
    That's a real nice header. Great job. Can I ask what was the paint you used on the pipes?
    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
    Plumbing in NYC or in NJ.
    Take his class.
  • Luv'nsteam
    Luv'nsteam Member Posts: 278
    VHT flat black on steel and iron and Diamond Coat Clear by Eastwood on brass and copper.  Cabinet has three coats of Mother's carnauba wax on it.