Disconnecting boiler from plumbing

Redrum

I had some work done on my wet basement (replacing interior drain tile) and the contracter did not wan to trench behind the boiler as we agreed, a result, the drain tile comes out and in front of the boiler and hot water tank instead of hugging the wall/footer. The wall behind the boiler and tank still seeps ground water.

So, later this summer I want to move the boiler out temporarily so that the work can be done correctly.

Please see my picture. I can disconnect the supply at the pump flange, but the return is hard piped. I realize that I will probably have to cut and add a coupling/union.

Just wondering where and what is recommended? Also wondering if there should have been something there in the first place. Or, maybe there is something I am not seeing

Thanks, Jim

Intplm.

It seems like an awful lot of work for the floor behind the boiler.

If you do proceed, cut the 1-1/4 copper line and add a union as you suggest. That's about it.

Intplm.

You can also add a drain off to the side of the boiler at a low point? This might save you a lot of work moving the boiler.

Redrum

Intplm. said:

It seems like an awful lot of work for the floor behind the boiler.

If you do proceed, cut the 1-1/4 copper line and add a union as you suggest. That's about it.

Thanks, well, the water doesn't just stay behind the boiler, and fixing 90% of the perimeter doesn't help when the water just wants to go where it wants to

I am thinking just moving it out 1-2' should give them the room. They didn't want to trench in the small space behind for fear floor supporting the rear of the boiler would collapse, pulling on all the piping above. Can't say I blame them.

Redrum

Intplm. said:

You can also add a drain off to the side of the boiler at a low point? This might save you a lot of work moving the boiler.

yea, there is a drain, not shown in pic.

mattmia2

You could just use a slip coupling and sweat it after you cut it too unless you really think you will need to move it again. A pair of flanges and a male adapters may be a lot less expensive than a copper union that size and will be easier to align and properly tighten.

Redrum

mattmia2 said:

You could just use a slip coupling and sweat it after you cut it too unless you really think you will need to move it again. A pair of flanges and a male adapters may be a lot less expensive than a copper union that size and will be easier to align and properly tighten.

so, a slip coupling is a coupling without the pipe seat in the middle of it, right? Just slip it over say the lower pipe, position, slip it up half way, sweat.

Your comment on a pair of flanges and male adaptors I am not following.

I guess the big question - if this were a new install, would a way of disconnecting be provided, or is it common for everything to be just hard piped?

mattmia2

There normally isn't a means to disconnect the boiler without cutting pipe.

You can mate 2 flanges together with a gasket instead of mating them to a pump. Flanges are usually threaded so you would need male adapters to connect them to the copper. This would be easier to align and to tighten than finding wrenches big enough to tighten a 1.25" union.

JUGHNE

Do you have isolation and purge valves on the boiler?

Valves above the pump and on the other 1 1/4" would allow you to change the:
pump, pressure relief valve, pressure gauge, pressure reducing valve, temp probe and any other item on the boiler.
You simply drain the boiler as needed and NOT have to PURGE AIR from the rest of the system. If you have ever had to do this you understand.

You could get valves that have purge ports for garden hose connections.

Don't forget new pump flange gaskets.

Still use the slip couplings for both pipes is you cannot raise the piping.
Assuming copper above the pump you could leave the pump flanges bolted up.
Cut above the pump.

Redrum

JUGHNE said:

Do you have isolation and purge valves on the boiler?

Valves above the pump and on the other 1 1/4" would allow you to change the:
pump, pressure relief valve, pressure gauge, pressure reducing valve, temp probe and any other item on the boiler.
You simply drain the boiler as needed and NOT have to PURGE AIR from the rest of the system. If you have ever had to do this you understand.

You could get valves that have purge ports for garden hose connections.

Don't forget new pump flange gaskets.

Still use the slip couplings for both pipes is you cannot raise the piping.
Assuming copper above the pump you could leave the pump flanges bolted up.
Cut above the pump.

The picture will give you a better idea of what I have. All of the piping from boiler to manifolds to zones are hard piped copper, and are rigidly in place. I can flex a bit here and there.

I have a ball valve shutoff on the supply side, after the pump (white handle). I have a purge and isolation valve on the return after the manifold (blue handle hose spigot) after the zones and before the expansion tank.

Yes, I am an "air purger" from way back . Actually, once I do a quick purge, the remaining air removes rather quickly through the separator above the expansion tank.

So, it seems like I could isolate the supply side through the ball valve, return side through the purge/isolation, shutoff the makeup water, drain the boiler, disconnect at the pump, cut the supply side, use a slip coupling, resweat.

Is there a reason I would want to cut at the supply rather than use the pump connection?

STEVEusaPA

Can you just trench around the boiler and connect all the perimeter drain pipes? If it's a trench, and stoned, I'm sure it would work.

Redrum

STEVEusaPA said:

Can you just trench around the boiler and connect all the perimeter drain pipes? If it's a trench, and stoned, I'm sure it would work.

boiler is close to the wall and very heavy. contractor was worried that if he broke out concrete, and trenched in the area just behind the rear of the boiler, that the weight of the boiler might cause the trench wall to collapse, boiler drops, then we have bigger problems. seems much safer to just haul it out (in the summer) for a couple days, trench, pipe, stone, concrete cure....