1960 Arcoflame American Standard Oil Burner ACD Model 602 Commercial Standard CS195-60

Jim1959

Hello I own a 1960 Arcoflame American Standard Oil Burner Model ACD -602 Commercial Standard CS-195-60 and Series E-2 and Overall Rating 12 Amps or less 115 volts /60 Cycle and Firing Range .65 to.300 GPH and Automatic mechanical updraft oil burner I would like to know if anybody out there has any information on this type of this Arcoflame oil burner furnace or a wiring diagram or a manual.

I had problems trying to get it started. I replaced everything in this furnace and I hear a clicking noise up by the transformer relay and

I also changed out a new Sid Harvey motor, brand new Crown Electrolytes, brand new Delavan spray nozzle..60.70.A and Also changed out Sid Harvey General Control Combustion Safety Relay part number R-96A102 new in box. I also rebuilt the whole entire blower belt driven motor and shaft and new bearings on the one side of the furnace and it has a built in Air Conditioning unit and outside Carrier AC unit

It seems like I'm not getting any power to the Sid Harvey furnace motor. I already bench tested it with an extension cord and it works fine. I also bleed out the sundstrand fuel pump to get all air out of fuel lines.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much. God Bless.

mattmia2

If you've done all that you now need an oil burner tech to adjust it. Did you replace an old stack control with another stack control?

HVACNUT

Having the correct level of electrolytes in an older burner is essential to its overall health. 
You probably don't want to hear this but what you're doing is not DIY. And depending on the current condition of the system, you might be hard pressed to find a tech old enough to know what they're looking at, and courageous enough to "own it" after they touch it.
This is a commercial burner? What size nozzle?
R96A102 doesn't come up in a search on the SH site. 
Where are you located?

wmgeorge

Oil burners are not DIY, you have spent a lot of money replacing parts. Do you own a meter and know how to use? Time to call in someone who works on these all the time.
On a call for heat, does the burner motor start and you see spark?

EBEBRATT-Ed

If you not getting power to the blower motor trace the wires back to see where the go.

Are you talking about the oil burner motor or the furnace blower that circulates the air?

HVACNUT

@Jim1959, thank you for the messages. 
With the firing rate of .60 or .85 GPH, it's not a commercial boiler and burner.
From what you described, with the soot disaster, the obscure parts being used, and a 73 year old oil tech retiree who's never seen an Arco Flame burner, or any older conventional burner because they were all pretty much the same. 
Somehow, your going to need a new system. Installed by a reputable oil company. It might hurt the pocketbook, but it will give you peace of mind. 
What's the oil business like in Ohio? Do you have contractor options?

MikeAmann

WOW, even I wouldn't have overhauled something this old.
This burner is ancient and the technology is stone-aged compared to what is available today.
You really can't even replace your ARCO with a modern burner because your old furnace wasn't designed for it and it would be a lot of work just to dial in proper combustion.
You spent a lot of money trying to keep the last dinosaur alive.
For your entertainment, read about what I did: https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/184643/flame-retention-head-conversion-of-wayne-e-series-burner/p1
It took years, and I was able to get it done, but all of my upgrades have now caused me to have flue gas condensation in my chimney and now I have to install a stainless steel liner.
I am learning - the hard way - that you really can't break your heating system into separate parts. It is a SYSTEM and you have to take all of it into consideration.

BDR529

I'll take a stab. Condesation-underfired good for acids too! No power- fan center relay for a/c and or t-stat.

Hub caps on a tractor, just why?

EdTheHeaterMan

It looks great for its age. The General Controls R-96A102 is a primary safety control that uses some type of cadmium cell to detect the brightness of the flame or perhaps a remote switching device that can detect the flame temperature. I can find no information on this control. If it is an early version of the cadmium cell flame detector there are two terminals on the low voltage side of the control that the thermostat connect to (THERM) and 2 terminals labeled R and W where the flame sensor is connected. otherwise the flame temperature sensor is connected there. You can help by letting us know what is on the other end of the wires labeled R and W

On the line voltage side, there are 4 terminals labeled 1, 2, 2 and 3. The two terminals marked 2 are in fact the same terminal with two places to connect a wire. The line voltage from the high limit switch in to the control is connected to 1 and 2 as indicated on the label. The motor and ignition transformer are connected to 3 and 2.

This is from a control of the same era. The #2 note would not apply to your control. Some burners of your era may have an oil valve. if your burner does not, just ignore the "Oil Valve" in the diagram.

Not knowing the internal workings of that control I can only guess that the flame detector circuit may cause the relay to not operate the motor in the event there is a flame sensed by the control. If the flame circuit detects a flame as a result of a defective flame sensor or cross connection of wires, the control will stay in "SAFE" mode until there is no flame signal. at that time the control will automatically start, providing there is a call for heat from the thermostat

If the control operates the motor and does not sense a flame within 90 seconds the flame safety control will lock out, requiring manual reset.

This is the best I can guess to operate this system electrically. As far as setting up the combustion adjustments, you will still need a professional with proper combustion testing equipment. Or you can take several months/years of oil burner training and get about 40 years of experience in the next few months in order to fully understand that this old furnace is well past its useful life.

Best wishes on your project.

Mr. ED

EdTheHeaterMan

Looking at this picture, the wiring for this furnace has been updated or changed to accommodate the central air conditioning system. The original wiring diagram for the system is different from your "AS BUILT" wiring.
Since there are too many variables in this wiring I can not speculate on what your actual wiring diagram may look like. I can only offer you this instruction sheet for the fan relay control.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/R8285A1048-Install.pdf



You will still need to have a proper combustion test completed to properly adjust the oil burner flame.

EDIT: This picture may help you identify som of the components on your furnace with those in the instruction sheet.
This is only a guess based on 40+ years of experience


Hope this helps