Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Not a plumber

darmajazz71 Member Posts: 2
So I found an article talking about 11/16 copper pipe. I’m Replacing toilet innards, shut off valve stripped. Cut off copper pipe past previous sweated area….. 1/2 inch compression ring still won’t go on. Trying to sand down edge….


  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,142
    Hi, Is there room to sweat a 1/2" male adapter onto the copper pipe? Also, when a dull tubing cutter is used, it can raise a burr around the pipe, right at the end. This can make it hard to get fittings on. A small flat file can be used to take that burr down. Or maybe once that burr is gone, you'll be able to get the compression ring/ferrule in place.

    Yours, Larry
  • darmajazz71
    darmajazz71 Member Posts: 2
    I don’t know how to sweat on anything. There’s room…. I’ve sanded down any burrs…. The pipe is just a hair bigger then the 1/2 inch compression ring…. It’s sooooo frustrating!!! House was built well in 1973… probably will have to call a plumber which is so irritating!!!  
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 3,827
    edited February 2022
    For 1/2" copper, you need a 5/8" compression ring.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • DJD775
    DJD775 Member Posts: 228
    Did you cut something that looks like this? If so that is soldered over the copper pipe and it will need to be removed in order for a new valve to fit.
    1/2" Nom. Sweat x 3/8" O.D. Compr. Angle Stop Valve w/ 5" Sweat Extension & Bell Escutcheon, Lead Free (Chrome Plated) Product Image
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,142
    edited February 2022
    Hi, Two ideas come to mind. First is to run your fingers down the pipe and off the cut end. Fingers are sensitive and will feel if there is any burr remaining. I'm not able to sand burrs off, I need to use a file, or it isn't a smooth (flush with the pipe) job. The other idea is to get another ferule from a different store/supplier. There is a chance what you have wasn't properly machined. I had to replace an angle stop a few days ago. Got one at a big box and found the threads were cut too small. Yes. Frustrating...irritating!

    Yours, Larry
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 8,889
    Is there a solder drip on the bottom making the pipe bigger? Is the pipe copper color? Could always flare it, the flaring tool would compress and stretch the copper a little as needed.
  • Zipper13
    Zipper13 Member Posts: 229
    You probably found my post here too. I found an article supporting that my pipe was a weird size, but really it was just that I had regular 1/2" with a sleeve over it as shown by @DJD775 . with liberal heat form a torch and a careful hand with a small file, I was able to peel back the sleeve from the copper like a an old sardine can. I could fit the compression fitting on OK, but I feared that I had melted the joint in the upstream elbow...it took a lot of heat... so I opened the wall and replaced it back to the elbow in the wall like I should have done from teh start.
    New owner of a 1920s home with steam heat north of Boston.
    Just trying to learn what I can do myself and what I just shouldn't touch