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1890 Steam System – Looking for St. Louis-area Expert and/or Advice

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Comments

  • swassbac
    swassbac Member Posts: 26
    edited January 2022
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    Beautiful radiators, especially the round ones! I lived my first 29 years in the St. Louis area. In what neighborhood is your home located?

    In the Central West End - right across from Forest Park. We moved from just a few blocks ago and the radiators at the previous home were my favorite - hot water from 1903 not steam from 1890.


  • swassbac
    swassbac Member Posts: 26
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    If the boiler is oversized on a counterflow system, repiping still may not stop banging. the water simply can't flow back against steam that is moving too fast down the main

    The system has been running pretty quiet for the last year after addressing the pipe sloping issues and adding the condensation pump last year. The hammering I was getting the last few weeks completely went away after draining and reflushing 2x as you suggested. At this point, if things remain stable, I think the best thing I can do is to get some of the disconnected radiators swapped out to minimize the difference between the min. BTU output and how much steam the system really needs.
  • dopey27177
    dopey27177 Member Posts: 887
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    Not digging deep into the operation of the system because others have done that.


    You have 3 steam traps shown in the pictures. One steam trap has a strainer installed upside down. There may be a possibility that the steam trap may be partially clogged and releasing all the condensate q2uickly.

    The other two steam traps may be partially clogged also.

    You had mentioned that severe banging occurred in the piping, that could have caused rust and scale build up and work its way into the drip legs (large nipple and caps). Over time some of the dirt may have entered the steam traps and partially clogged them. Or all three of the need to rebuilt. Hope fully the traps are are F&T and parts are available.

    When opening the traps to clean them check to see if the float has no water in them and that the thermostatic vent is in the trap.

    If the trap needs to be rebuilt get a new float assembly and new thermostatic assembly.

    As to the rads in the duct work they were usually made of the same cast iron as the free standing radiators were. The leak could be nipples or pipe connections inside the enclosure. Any way you can remove the convector and test for leaks. If there are leaks and they are accessible they can be welded,

    Jake

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,063
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    This is a newer (1938 ;) installation than yours.

    This is end of steam main F&T, first the 2" white cap (mud leg) was opened.
    It was completely full of sludge so that junk would head towards the F&T.
    Something to check every few years.

    A new strainer was added ahead of the new F&T, the strainer has a 3/8" blow down valve (green handle) so it can be flushed under pressure without opening anything up.

    {Next is an antler of Gorton #2 air vents, added because of slow venting of the F&T, this got the steam to the end of the main faster than I could walk the 100+ feet to get there, after steam was up. Added here for a unique situation...long return line that may not had correct slope....not always necessary.}

    Then the F&T discharge has a valve to test if it is defective and would be passing steam. (ball valve pointing down with white handle)

    If you have someone coming to do a skim tap, perhaps these items could be installed and be beneficial.

    swassbac
  • swassbac
    swassbac Member Posts: 26
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    Not digging deep into the operation of the system because others have done that.
    As to the rads in the duct work they were usually made of the same cast iron as the free standing radiators were. The leak could be nipples or pipe connections inside the enclosure. Any way you can remove the convector and test for leaks. If there are leaks and they are accessible they can be welded,

    I'll definitely look into the traps - thanks for the advice.

    As far as the in duct radiators, I found someone that can test and try to weld them if the leaks are in the connections/nipple. The issue is I haven't found anyone who can get them out and take then to him - he is a one man shop but seems to be the go to steam expert in St. Louis - another person on this thread recommended him.

    I need to see if I can get a maintenance man to help me remove the sheet metal ductwork and then let the steam flow in and see if I can pinpoint where the leak is. If it is in a serviceable location or indeterminate, I've got to see if I can find a couple of guys that can try to remove them and take them to that guy or find someone who could weld here.

    Thanks again - I really appreciate all the comments. I am just glad things have been completely silent and smooth running through the weekend.
  • SteamCrazy
    SteamCrazy Member Posts: 100
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    Wow!!  What a Beautiful house.  The heating systems is amazing and enormous.  You are definitely in the right place for information,  which I could help but out of my league.  Wow.. good luck with your restoration if closer I would offer a helping hand just to be part of such a restoration.  Best of luck 
    swassbac