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need help identifying 2" globe valve so I can repack stem - MH with arrow logo?

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bkc
bkc Member Posts: 37
edited January 2022 in Strictly Steam
Hi,

I am replacing a valve actuator on a 2" steam line. I see that the valve also leaks at the stem.

I am unsure how to repack this valve. Can I get a 'generic' repacking kit for this valve?

It doesn't appear to be a honeywall valve, but its on a M6184D1001 honeywell actuator with Q5001 linkage.

Thanks for any suggestions..





Comments

  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
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    I'd take a look at what's left of the original packing, then google "bonnet packing" and see what comes up that looks similar.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • bkc
    bkc Member Posts: 37
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    Thanks for the suggestion

    Before taking this valve apart, I would need to close the 'big valve' shown on the left side of the picture below.

    I bet that 'big valve' hasn't been turned in 20 or 30 years. Is it likely that the 'big valve' will start leaking, stick part way, not budge? Anyone have experiences with turning really old valves?

    which way should it be turned to close, clockwise?

    thanks



  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
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    Ugh. It looks like a gate valve. They can go either way, and often get gunk in the bottom of the seat ring and won't close all the way. Ist there a name on the casting? I'm guessing Stockham, but it's just a wild guess.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,061
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    It may close but not 100%, you would still have steam headed for you.
    Best to shut down boiler and work without any pressure.

    It is not impossible to get something coming back from the other end of the line, even if you did get the valve off.
    Hap_Hazzard
  • bkc
    bkc Member Posts: 37
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    I have a few photos of the leaking valve.

    Can anyone identify the brand based on the logo?

    To replace the packing, do I just need a deep socket to unscrew the inner bushing, or do I need to remove the outer one or something else? It looks pretty rusty.






    This valve is leaking a fair amount when its closed. I also noticed the shut-off valve for this line is also leaking.

    This video shows the volume at about 2psi

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/pyT9xQePQBBxTEtw7

    Thanks for any suggestions, I am worried about breaking the gate valve while trying to take it apart, that would be bad for me.
  • retiredguy
    retiredguy Member Posts: 905
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    The zone valve looks like a Honeywell V5011F 2" direct acting for steam use. The rebuild kit and the repack kit are almost the same except that the rebuild kit gives you a new stem. I would buy the rebuild kit if available. I never had much luck rebuilding these old valves and in most cases had to just replace the whole valve. If the rebuild kit does not work then you will have to replace the whole valve.

    Rebuild kit 14003111-008; repack kit 14003295-003 or-004 should get the job done

    Everything can be purchased at the supplyhouse.com


    For that gate valve, loosen the packing nut and add a few wraps of string packing. If you have to replace the zone valve you should opt to replace the gate valve also.
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 855
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    The valve is definitely Honeywell. Used to be called Minneapolis Honeywell back in the day, hence MH.
  • bkc
    bkc Member Posts: 37
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    Thanks everyone, I found a $225 V5011F 'new in box' on ebay and purchased it.
    CLambwmgeorge