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Low boiler pressure

MReib
Member Posts: 5




0
Comments
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That old girl looks pretty tired. Looks like some flame roll out there. I need to see the RH side of the pump to see if it is backwards.
You need to get water in the boiler. Use a garden hose from a sink and feed water in through a drain valve you need 12-15 psi for a 1-2 story house. Use a female-female hose connector or a washing machine hose to get water in there and get back riunning.
Then replace you water feeder its probbly plugged up. you need to find out where the water is stopped
I would start saving for a new boiler0 -
I think the flame rollout was from that panel not being on those burners for a long time. I put it back on and they seem to be staying in there. :-) The only drain in the system is there on the bottom of the boiler. Nothing I can see you in line. I’m going to change that cash app me a soon as I can get one
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Yikes, looking at that beast I would buy a CO detector as soon as you can, if you don't have one now.
Looks like a water heater burner on the spare parts pile? If you have a tank water heater, does it show signs of flame roll out also.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Thank you for the heads up on the Caleffi.0
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The water heater is fine it’s fairly new and working great. The boiler looks bad because that one plate was not on there blocking the flame.0
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Normally, the flames should not roll out even with the cover plate off.
You may have passageways plugged in your boiler or bad chimney.
IMO, you should have a pro in to look at your installation.
When have you had anyone do a serious service/cleaning other than changing the pump?0 -
My observation; from what you have said about the temperature of the pipes, supply and return, I have to assume that there is little to no flow of water through your boiler. I will address the pump first. Looking at the inlet piping to the pump you could have air trapped in that piping above the pump. That design makes it near impossible to remove the air from that section of pipe between the return and the pump. Next, just because the pump is new does not mean that it is pumping water. The impeller could be loose on the shaft, or plugged with some type of debris. The motor will get very hot when there is no water flow since the water flow cools the pump. The hot pipe below the pump and the cooler pipe above tells me that there is no flow through the pump.
The PRV valve should be set to keep the cold fill pressure in the boiler at 12-15 lbs as @EBEBRATT-Ed stated. I would suspect that that PRV needs to be replaced and that the galvanized supply pipe may be plugged and should be replace with copper all the way to the boiler.
I notice that the relief valve has a stop valve installed ahead of it. That valve can't be there. I once tried to take the guts out of a valve on a commercial job and the state and insurance inspectors both said "no".
For the expansion tank, you need to know how to drain that tank completely. You need to get air into the top of the tank while the water is draining. Some of those old tanks had no way to get air into the tank to allow the water to drain. That is the main reason residential systems utilize pre-charged bladder tanks. You select the proper size tank, precharge the bladder side, and install the tank. Job done.
You need to have your system serviced by a good service company to insure it's has a long life.
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I want to thank each and everyone of you who commented and helped with this. It was low water. And I could not find it until I brought the pipes apart to change the valve. The boiler is working like a champ now and 8 pounds is reaching the second floor. Thanks again for all your help it was very much appreciated.0
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