Indirect water heater recommendations

Derheatmeister

ek99 said:

You just made my head explode!  I can’t change the tubes. They’re in the walls!!  All the markings are smudged or printed in a non legible way.   I think I’ll probably be out of the house by the time the next tank goes. 

I’ll get indirect replaced first as I’m worried that the leak gets worse and the pressure jumps.  I’ve noticed that the pressure is going up faster these days.  

Based on what I’ve heard going up to 80 gallon over 60 won’t increase energy consumption that much but it will guarantee I won’t run out of hot water.  So leaning towards the 80 gallon,  the cost seem to be only $300 more.

Replying to Hot Rod it looks like I have an asse mixing valve from honeycomb picture attached. 

Will ask the plumber that installs about adding glycol to the hydronic system.   Thanks!!

Did not want to overwhem you !!
Sorry,But Blurry markings on Tubing = Aquapex...We have seen this thousands of times

Do you have any manifold access panels in the house that may reveal more of the tubing BTW: I would not ask if i did not think that this is very important.

If your system does not have a O2 barrier and if this was a situation that we would be up against we would ONLY install a Higher grade 50 gallon or 60 gallon Stainless Steel,pacified waterheater and get rid of any ferrous materials in the system.
We would turn down any other install and let someone else own the issues later,also protecting our reputation..

For your and your installers information: some manufactures will automaticly void your warranty if they find out that your installer subjected the equipment to None O2 barrier tube.Please read the fine print on the warranty..

Just keep in mind that if you are going to add glycol your system most likely will need a system flush, A system cleaner installed for a couple days followed by flushing the cleaner out at which point your Plumber could install at least 20% glycol hopefully in conjunction with deironized water to ensure proper protection for a "little while".. just to do it all again in a couple years which is then again flushed down the drain (Great for our enviroment)Please read the warnings on some of the cans..

Sorry but IMO not paying attension towards this situation is only going to compromise your investment and it seemed like you do care.

Just one exsample for all the Pros on this site :
Last year we had to change a nice Stieble Eltron Glasslined indirect waterheater that was interfaced with a Solar drainback...The High O2 levels destroyed the coil from the inside out within approx. 6 years..
Not only did the high O2 levels destroy the tank it also contaminated the SS holding tank which needed to be cleaned and we had to also change all the Copper piping/Circulating pumps since they were compromised by iron debrie.. So much for going green..Carbon foot print just quadrupled because the original installer did not pay Attention !
Regularly we encounter this with PB and None O2 barrier tubing as well.
Some of you most likely have encounterd many of these situations..

Sorry that no one else here is talking about possible lack of the O2 barrier and the importance thereof !

It Seems that everyone is only paying attention to the Domestic side and the ASV ..

Maybe to much leftover eggnog..

Sorry to go on about this

Wishing all Good luck and a Happy New Year.

Solid_Fuel_Man

I see the writing NSF-rfh on the tube. The writing and tube sheen sure look like Wirsbo hePEX to me. That looks like a very nice professional installation. I doubt there is non O2 pex in the system. 

cooper185

Indirect fired (boiler heated) water heaters are tested at the factory. Install them ASAP upon delivery as they have residual moisture in the water jacket surrounding the potable water storage. If left uninstalled for months the surrounding water jacket surfaces tend to oxidize, as in "they'll get rusty".