Enerjet ET-42, overhaul

ranzerox

Greetings heating enthusiasts,

I'm looking to overhaul an Enerjet ET-42, considering:

1) Updating LWCO #67,
2) Installing Hartford loop with equalizer,
3) Rotating furnace position 90 degrees, and
4) Moving return line from left- to right-side.

I have not done this before and looking for wisdom and/or suggestions/recommendations.

Thanks in advance!

EBEBRATT-Ed

Looks like it needs a lot of help.

I seriously question if it is worth saving.

Is it in operation now?

ranzerox

It should be working, it was last season. I did consider the cost to update versus replacing, seems to make sense to update. Thanks 

neilc

why ?
why ?
why ?

certainly is another kinda mess,

why is the Ptrol set so high?

what problems or issues had you had?
hammering? vents spitting?

can you see your water level?
has pigtail been serviced?

ranzerox

@neilc, the reason is that I tried to flush the LWCO and a trickle of water came out, so I turned it on to see how it would operate and heard some noises, don't know if the vents were spitting. Also, there's a drain valve that was leaking which I wanted to replace with a ball valve but I'm having problems installing it due to the close proximity of the outlet to the outlet for the water level. This boiler replaced something that was far bigger and the pipe installation does not appear appropriate for the current boiler. For one there, there's no equalizer which I think is problematic. The location is currently under renovation so I have an opportunity to give it some love. The water is empty now but it did have water when I turned it on. To be honest, it hasn't been serviced regularly, so no to the pigtail service. No idea on the ptrol setting too. Thank you.

neilc

xmas is coming,
https://heatinghelp.com/store/detail/we-got-steam-heat-a-homeowners-guide-to-peaceful-coexistence
or available for kindle
https://heatinghelp.com/store/

ranzerox

@neilc, thanks, I’m checking it out

neilc

so on that trickle of water from the LWCO,
with the boiler off, and cool, and drained down(if you can)
disassemble, back out the packing and then the stems, for both valves at the sightglass and use 1 of those glass protection rods to check and clean the valve body to be clear all the way into the boiler,
then start refilling, let some water flush the bottom valve, reassemble it, the add water up to the upper valve and flush, then reassemble,
you should get a decent flow from that LWCO, or it needs checking, cleaning, and or replacing also,

while you're working,
the pigtail also needs to be checked for clear all the way back into the boiler so it can see boiler pressure, pull the Ptrol or gage off and blow back into the boiler, this needs to be an open passage, or that pigtail is gunked up and needs cleaning or replacing,
prime a 1/4 cup of water into the pigtail before reassembling gage or pigtail,

the Ptrol setting, you're looking for 0.5 cut in, and ~1.5 cut out,
the scale on the front of the Ptrol, your cut in, dial it down to the bottom of that scale, or to where you feel a slight resistance,
inside the cover, there's a white differential wheel, it should be
set to 1 facing forward, that's added to the cut in and gives you the 1.5 cut out,
if the boiler doesn't restart with front scale bottomed out, add a turn or 2 to the front scale, cut in adjustment screw(top of cover)

and most importantly,
check that LWCO,
while the boiler is firing, open that LWCO flush valve,
the water must drop, and the burner must shut off,
if not, you must dig into why, and don't run the boiler without the LWCO working,

can you see the water level in that sightglass?
it should be cleaned,
just don't break it,
some say don't attempt without a replacement on hand,

ranzerox

@neilc, thanks very much, I’ll report back with my progress!

ranzerox

I think since i'm going to work on that LWCO, might as well replace it. I'm leaning to update it with an electronic using Hydrolevel Safguard, probably 724, instead of using the identical part. Anyone have any experience swapping out #67? Thanks!

neilc

you'll need to open a port on that boiler, at its correct height,
from your manual,
see what the 67 does for you first,
you would also need to replumb the Ptrol assembly , , ,

ranzerox

Here’s what I found so far, lots of mud. Wondering what the extent of the mud is. Tried moving the float from that opening but it doesn’t move, don’t know if it’s supposed to from there. 

ranzerox

You think this 67 got another life? Looks like scrap metal, lol. Thanks 

man, that was a beast to get of. Whoever did the plumbing, his ear must of been ringing.

neilc

wow, sludge fest

neilc

get that wet return flowing, either by sawzall, or wire probes,
but get that wet return opened up and flowing,

no steam heat for you, tonight , , ,

#sludgefest

neilc

and being in this deep,

pipe yourself a proper header and hartford, / near boiler piping

ranzerox

@neilc , going the 67 replacement route, what did you mean by open port? I think you mentioned that when I referenced using Hydrolevel instead of another 67. Thanks 

JUGHNE

Are you sure the boiler doesn't have a hole in the top of the castings?

Now is the best time to find out.

You could check by plugging all the openings and overfilling the boiler.
You could crack the 2" union on the steam riser up high to tell where your overfill water level is.
You want to go no higher than that and wash any sludge up into the system.

I would let sit overnight if possible. Then look for water under the boiler.

ranzerox

@JUGHNE, i don’t think there’s any crack as I don’t see any wetness before I worked on it and it worked last season. The bottom is dry it appears. I think it’s an easy check though so I’ll probably do it. It would so suck to fine that to be an issue later. Thanks 

Steamhead

For those not familiar, the Hydrolevel #711/724 low-water cutoffs are designed to replace the M&M #47-2 and #67. We've used them. They do work, and have almost no moving parts, but you still have to blow them down.

But @ranzerox , with all that work you're talking about doing, you might as well replace that boiler. As an example, a Weil-McLain SGO-3 equipped with a Carlin or Midco gas power burner would give you better efficiency. And it would have a probe-type low-water cutoff already on it.

ranzerox

@JUGHNE, it’s all set, filled it up and found the pressure relief leaking. I swap that out with a valve for now.

@Steamhead, I agree, it’s all about how much. I’ll certainly check it out, much appreciate the recommendation. I didn’t expect to do boiler work, left field non-sense, omg. I have no attachment to this Enerjet which btw I can’t find a manual for, plus the company went out of business. Wondering how old it is.

 Thanks!!

JUGHNE

Is it big enough to heat the house?
Or could it be smaller? There might be one size smaller than what you have.
Did you add up the EDR of radiators?

ranzerox

My neighbor’s is 75K so I’m thinking this may be oversized. I didn’t do the EDR but will if I replace it. Thanks 

ranzerox

Bad news, it’s leaking. Good news, I found it now. Thanks so much @JUGHNE, would of suck even more if I updated it and found the leak later.

ranzerox

Looks like the leak is from the supply line solder.

neilc

and that's another why you don't use copper above the water line , , ,
you're this deep in, see if you can remove the copper riser piece from the boiler,
then double check that leak,

and you can't compare BTUs to your neighbor,
you need to survey your radiators to come up with your own EDR requirements,

the hydro therm, I ASSUMED it was an electronic probe type,
and would want a specific hole in the boiler,

EBEBRATT-Ed

@ranzerox

Boy, you have a lot of work to do there. I would remove all the piping and controls and plug all the openings and pressure test to 20 psi.

If it passes the leak test I would spend some time flushing as much sludge as possible through any and all openings with a hose or pressure washer and remove all the sludge you can.

When you get it running I would put in 1 lb of TSP/50 gallons of boiler water (estimate how much water the boiler holds and adjust the TSP accordingly) mix the tSP with some water in a bucket and pour it in the boiler then fill the boiler and run it to boil it out (don't make steam) just keep it hot then skim, skim and skim let it cool drain and see how it looks inside. You may need to do this a few times. When complete drain refill drain refill to remove any tsp

ranzerox

I removed the top panel to check on the supply leak. It's leaking but I doubt that's the source of the drip. I wrapped supply solder leak with a rag and its still dripping. I can't find the source of the drip with the top panel off. I think at this point this boiler is hosed as it looks cracked.

Looking for boilers, probably will bone up on how do determine my EDR as next step.

Appreciate very much everyone's help. You guys have been so awesome.

Checking out automatic blowdown devices now. I think this would be essential in the longevity of these boilers.

Thanks

EBEBRATT-Ed

@ranzerox

There is information on this site about EDR check in the library. Post again if you can't find what you need

ranzerox

I calculated the EDR, think it's correct. Based on that, it appears I need a 56K steam boiler. Think I found a boiler too.

JUGHNE

Note: I see you are ahead of me while I type.

That would be 231.5 x 240 =55,560 btuh x 1.33 pick up factor = 73,895 btuh OUTPUT of a boiler.

Your existing boiler has an output of 92,000 btuh.

A new steam boiler has the EDR rating on the label, that is the number you look at and use.

For instance a Peerless Boiler 63-03L is for 233 EDR load.
88,500 input/74,000 output.... or 56,000 net output for steam

The 1.33 is for pick up factor of heating up the connected pipe (which has to be come a radiator first)...could be more if not insulated.

That 63-03L would be the right size if you measured right And if your pipe is insulated.
That is the smallest boiler in that series.

Might be available somewhere, apparently supplies are short.

ranzerox

@JUGHNE, the connected pipe is actually bare, thought the pickup factor accounts for that. I'll make plans to wrap everything that exposed, basically anything underneath the floor joist and along the floor.

I'm finding the Peerless 63-03L 233 net sqf is just right for my calculated EDR so i'm leaning towards this model although pricey. My next consideration is the Williamson GSA-100 258 net sqf. Since this net sqf is over my EDR of 232, would it be accurate to say that its oversized and probably waste fuel?

THANKS

JUGHNE

I believe the 1.33 pick up factor is the typical insulated piping system.
There are times when the pick up factor is changed, even lowered.

But I would go with the smaller boiler and insulate the pipes with 1" fiberglass.
You pay for insulation only once but every month for gas.

All heating systems are too big most of the year. They are designed for the coldest days you get, just a few of them a year.

IIWM, I would get that PB now, as supplies are running short.....really.