Oil pumps won't stop seizing / previous biodiesel use

nick1304

Hello all. Not an expert here, just a frustrated homeowner. We've replaced the oil pump on our Beckett 3 times in the past year, twice last season and then again a month ago, and now it's seized up again already.

We were told last year that it's due to biodiesel use, so in October we filled the tank with regular #2. Our filter was replaced and the the whole furnace serviced when we last replaced the pump in November. But obviously there's still an issue, either due to sludge or, as our service tech theorized after talking to Beckett, a previous "bad batch" of biodiesel that's contaminated our tank. He showed me the sediment below that he drained when examining our filter.




The recommendation from my tech at this point is to:
1) Install a second filter (our current one below)
2) Change to a one-pipe system (so that there is less oil passing through the pump? and/or less sludge being kicked up by the return flow?)
3) Install a more resilient pump recommended by Beckett (trying to find out the name, last two that have been installed are Suntec A2VA-3006-B. Prior to that it was a A2VA-3006).
4) Potentially raise up our intake pipe a few inches?




But he says he can't be 100% sure this is going to solve the issue, due to the contaminate in the fuel. Alternatively I assume my option is to replace our (outdoor/aboveground) tank, but from my research, that's not going to be cheap either.

Is a better/additional filter going to solve this? Very frustrated and wondering if we should just install a natural gas furnace....

Thanks for any advice.

Nick

EBEBRATT-Ed

Adding another filter is small $$. Also with an outside tank I would get some fuel oil treatment and treat the tank. "HOT" is one product.

switching to a one pipe system may or may not be feasible. I am a two piper but am in the minority on this forum. Many will suggest using one pipe with the dreaded "tiger loop" to allow the oil to warm up and that may be the way to go

I would strongly suggest treating the tank and testing the tank for water.

If your boiler is in decent shape a gas burner might be an option, could be installed in your existing
boiler

i don't know of any pump more robust than the sundstrand.

The amount of sludge in that sample doesn't mean much

STEVEusaPA

You should get the fuel tested. If the tank is contaminated, it will need to be treated and/or emptied, and/or replaced.
Water will do more damage than bio, and a high vacuum (restriction) will kill the pump the fastest. So maybe a restriction at the inlet of the tank is causing a high vacuum and destroying your pump seal.
If you have a valve on the bottom of the tank, you can draw off the water and impurities from the bottom of the tank, which should be done annually in the fall every year.

A second spin on filter is nice for sediment, but won't help you if the quality of the oil is the problem.

I'd recommend buying heating oil only from a company who buys their oil directly from the refinery and has NO storage of their own, especially with bio, if possible. Try to avoid discount companies who may pump out other tanks when people do conversions and resell it.

nick1304

Appreciate the input @EBEBRATT-Ed.

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

Adding another filter is small $$. Also with an outside tank I would get some fuel oil treatment and treat the tank. "HOT" is one product.

Yeah but continuing to replace pumps is not. Installed this is costing us at least $400 a pop.

We did do a fuel treatment in November as well (same time we last had the oil pump and oil filter replaced).

EBEBRATT-Ed

@nick1304

A pump should last 20 years they are not a high failure item. In fact of all the parts on a burner they are probably the least replaced part.

Have your tech contact the local Sun tec rep through his supply house and make them get you an answer.

If your oil supplier also is doing the service complain to them and take some action, tell them your considering switching to gas. Those pumps do not go bad, not at that rate. If they are telling you "bad Pumps" that is a lie there is a reason

nick1304

Thanks @STEVEusaPA!

STEVEusaPA said:

You should get the fuel tested. If the tank is contaminated, it will need to be treated and/or emptied, and/or replaced.

Who would I contact for a test? An oil supplier or my HVAC servicer?

STEVEusaPA said:

Water will do more damage than bio, and a high vacuum (restriction) will kill the pump the fastest. So maybe a restriction at the inlet of the tank is causing a high vacuum and destroying your pump seal.

Like a restriction caused by sediment? Otherwise why would this just start happening last season?

STEVEusaPA said:

If you have a valve on the bottom of the tank, you can draw off the water and impurities from the bottom of the tank, which should be done annually in the fall every year.

Does this count as a valve? Something I'd do myself or a service I can get from my oil supplier or HVAC company?



Thanks again.

BDR529

Can't filter the bio out of the biofuels. But a good additive is needed with cooler temps.    The only good replacement pump would be a  Danfosss bfph they have been very resilient.

Big Ed_4

Your problem is the teflon tape used on the fittings ..

Robert O'Brien

Lots of problems there, that's a side outlet tank. How would you remove water even with a valve installed? You need to stick tank for water and pump it out. It's also in contact with the ground, it needs to be lifted up and pitched toward outlet. Switch to single pipe or use a deaerator, install a two micron secondary filter ( Wix 33528 or equivalent). If you have to or want to change pump, try a Beckett PF20323. Bulletin about this issue attached, it's a fuel degradation problem and not necessarily bio related as you've found out

EBEBRATT-Ed

O the gas utilities will love this.

EdTheHeaterMan

Big Ed_4 said:

Your problem is the teflon tape used on the fittings ..

Is that Blue teflon tape or Blue pipe dope?

If you are using teflon tape on any oil line fitting, then you are asking for problems. Use only pipe joint compound that is approved for Fuel Oil. I like Rector Seal #5 for its sealing properties. I hate it for its ability to make a mess of things. LOL

The bottom tank picture is the place you want to put a valve to remove the tank bottom deposits. When the tank is near empty next spring, remove the plug and install a pipe nipple and a ball valve. Put the plug back in the valve so no one can accidentally kick the valve open, while blowing leaves, and let all your oil out to make a $1,000,000.00 cleanup job for your local Environmental Clean-up Company.

Lastly, Try the Tiger loop fuel deaerator installed near your oil burner. You will get several benefits form that device. The Tiger loop Ultra has a spin on filter included in the unit. The refills are available with BioFuel gaskets and will filter down to 10 Micron particles size. The less expensive spin on filter replacement will filter to 35 microns. So order the model R or # 2605 refill.

nick1304

Unknown whether that is Teflon tape. It looks more like tape than dope to me. Could this be causing pump seizure?

EdTheHeaterMan

The pump manufacturers specifically state in the literature "Do Not Use Teflon Products on fuel line connections" So... It could be, but I have cheated with tape and got away with it in a pinch. As a rule I do not use teflon tape or "pipe dope with teflon" on fuel oil lines anywhere.

If you are replacing the fittings on the pump and you glob on tape and it breaks off and gets in the gear set, then you don't know how to use Teflon tape. If there was a tiny piece that flaked off, it probably just got pushed thru the system back to the tank. It will get caught in the oil filter on the way back to the pump.

I'm more inclined to the fuel being a problem as indicated on page 2 0f the Suntek service bulletin shared by @Robert O'Brien above

STEVEusaPA

nick1304 said:

Unknown whether that is Teflon tape. It looks more like tape than dope to me. Could this be causing pump seizure?

I doubt it.

Edit: Just to clarify, do not use Teflon tape. It goes against all manufacturer's instructions. So it is wrong, but it wouldn't be the reason to kill 3 pumps in a year.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Back in the early 70s we used nothing but Teflon Tape on oil lines and it was never an issue.

As most know using teflon tape on pipe fittings makes them a lot easier to make in than just dope.

As I recall the pump mfgs outlawed teflon tape because the idiots installing the fittings in the pump were cranking them in to tight and causing damage to the pumps.

Many talk about tape getting inside the pipe and that is possible if you don't stay a thread or two back but I don't recall that as the reason teflon was "outlawed" but I could be wrong.

The following is from Webster Service Handbook Pg 21



IMPORTaNT: Do not loosen or try to tighten any pump
plugs not to be used in the installation. NON HARDENING OIL PIPE DOPE IS RECOMMENDED for use on
the threads of all fittings. Teflon tapes or paste must be
used with care to prevent depositing tape pieces or
fibers into critical internal areas of the pump. Reduced
torque must be used with teflon materials to avoid
thread or casting damage EVIDENCE OF TEFLON
MATERIAL IN INTERNAL AREAS OF THE FUEL UNIT
WILL BE CAUSE TO VOID WARRANTY.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Just saw that Suntek bought ot Webster back in September

Robert O'Brien

STEVEusaPA said:

nick1304 said:

Unknown whether that is Teflon tape. It looks more like tape than dope to me. Could this be causing pump seizure?

I doubt it.

If teflon tape is at fault, it's usually a bad cutoff

Big Ed_4

Teflon tape will jam the workings of oil pump . Pumps rarely go... Mostly seal leaks if any

nick1304

Big Ed_4 said:

Teflon tape will jam the workings of oil pump . Pumps rarely go... Mostly seal leaks if any

4 times though? That filter has been there for years before this started happening last year.

Jon_blaney

What is the condition of the pump screens on the failed pumps?

Big Ed_4

From the few photos posted I see negatives . The teflon tape , the petcock rather then a fireomatic valve . The top feed and the tank laying on the ground .

I would recommend setting up a new tank , I know for sure, the way your tank is set up the bottom is rotting out from the inside and as well as the outside ... sitting high on a Slab ( not to catch leaves to distribute moisture along the bottom of the tank) ,1/4 pitched tank to the bottom valve .( collection of water in tank will produce sludge which has a sulfuric acid base ) Downward pitch oil line into cellar to prevent any water freezing up oil line . New tank new oil .

A pump can seize if something hard like teflon gets stuck in the gears . 4 pumps ? Maybe some kids poured sand into your tank ..

EBEBRATT-Ed

Which is why I suggested calling in the Suntek rep. 4 pumps just don't go bad. Let them tell you what the issue is. Then take the steps to fix it

426hemi

I Recommend installing a racor fuel filter I personally recommend the 500MA. These things are a lot better than the typical oil filters used on heating systems. You can see the amount or water and crap in the bowl and easily drain it off. Changing the filter is quick and clean. These filters are used on generators and boilers on boats you can get one at any marine store. The filter elements are a little more expensive then the typical heating ones, but if you buy them by the case there not that bad. If you run the 10 micron elements and service it when needed you shouldn’t have any more issues. I have one on my boiler at home, not because I had an issue but simply because it’s a way better design and easier and less messy to service. 

Meroneplumbing

Everyone I hate to say the suntec oil pumps, Beckett’s clean cut used to last! This past two years have been a night mare and I am tired of it.  I have a fuel oil company so I have a decent amount of oil clients about 450 that I take care of by myself.  I have been doing this my entire life and I am excellent mechanic.  Not sure **** is going on with these pumps but there are junk.  I have had numerous pumps seize! I have had which this is the major headache problem of where fuel flow continues to pour out of the nozzle cause extreme soot then clogs unit and my clients have puff backs this season I have had 4 puff backs do to this **** malfunction and I have had it! Just had one this evening and have had enough.  Contacting Beckett’s regional rep and see what can be done.  If these pumps are being out sourced who ever the **** is making them is not doing it right.  This is an extreme hazard I have clients that are fearing for there lives if this occurs when there sleeping and I do not blame them.  I even went extra mile where I have upgrade the cad sell with the clean cut pump with the solenoid and when the heater was off the oil was passing through the pump and through the solenoid also now that my friends is absolutely total ****! I am done being nice! If anyone else here has experienced this same issues with multiple clients of yours I want to know because there is a major manufacture defect here period!!!

Intplm.

It's been quite some time since I looked but, isn't there a screen filter in the fuel unit that is rather, the fuel pump? Should this also be looked at?

HVACNUT

I've never had that problem with a clean cut pump. I don't  know of anyone who's had that problem. You've had four in one season? What bio blend are you or your clients using?

STEVEusaPA

Meroneplumbing said:

Everyone I hate to say the suntec oil pumps, Beckett’s clean cut used to last! This past two years have been a night mare and I am tired of it.  I have a fuel oil company so I have a decent amount of oil clients about 450 that I take care of by myself.  I have been doing this my entire life and I am excellent mechanic.  Not sure **** is going on with these pumps but there are junk.  I have had numerous pumps seize! I have had which this is the major headache problem of where fuel flow continues to pour out of the nozzle cause extreme soot then clogs unit and my clients have puff backs this season I have had 4 puff backs do to this **** malfunction and I have had it! Just had one this evening and have had enough.  Contacting Beckett’s regional rep and see what can be done.  If these pumps are being out sourced who ever the **** is making them is not doing it right.  This is an extreme hazard I have clients that are fearing for there lives if this occurs when there sleeping and I do not blame them.  I even went extra mile where I have upgrade the cad sell with the clean cut pump with the solenoid and when the heater was off the oil was passing through the pump and through the solenoid also now that my friends is absolutely total ****! I am done being nice! If anyone else here has experienced this same issues with multiple clients of yours I want to know because there is a major manufacture defect here period!!!

I wonder what my be going on with the quality of fuel from your supplier. I have about 450 residential customers and I’ve only replaced one fuel pump in the last 2 years.

OPT101

Hi everyone, new member here, I have a similar issue, on my 5th pump, had oil delivery beginning of April and my pump failed April 2021, 2nd one failed in December 2021, third was changed a month ago, the same thing, and now new one lasted 1 week. I believe my 2nd failure was from the discount oil provider I used, in Jan I used a " popular company" and this last delivery the discount oil provided, I didn't really put 2 and 2 together that it could be the oil. I have the Suntec A2VA-7116B as the last 2 replacements. If there is something in the tank what could I use to clean it? or treat it? Any recommended product? I really glad I found this post. I really can not afford a new tank right now.

STEVEusaPA

You can try to treat it, but the best thing is to run it all the way down, blow the line back, then treat it.
I can't believe they keep replacing fuel units. Did anyone check the running vacuum, might be a restriction.
Or again, the fuel quality is junk. Draw some fuel out, take it to Sid Harvey's (call them first) for analysis.

Jon_blaney

I had a pump fail after I had a bad firematic valve. The fuel supply was partially blocked.