Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

stripping thread on combustion head tube

steamnoob
steamnoob Member Posts: 45
changed my burner nozzle this morning, and noticed a little drip on the fitting coming out the combustion chamber. gave it a snug or two, then for good measure decided to snug 3 and stripped it. the bottom 2-3 threads are gone. replacement assembly is like 3 weeks out. There is still plenty of thread showing. Are there any deeper 3/8 connectors, preferably already on some tubing (flared copper or otherwise) available somewhere?

Comments

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,330
    The bulkhead fitting at the end of the nozzle assembly?
    The brass piece the nozzle screws into?
  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45
    No, on the other end, where the oil line from pump threads on.  Guess its a 3/16th comp, not 3/8
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,378
    edited November 2021
    There are replacement high pressure lines available. maybe a new one will get you buy for the time
    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Beckett-5394-8-Nozzle-Line

    as a rule, you don't use teflon tape on oil lines anywhere, but I might try it for this to get you thru until the proper part comes in.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,470
    So what is stripped the inside threads in the flare nut or the threads on the nozzle assembly?
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,378
    the high pressure line on most modern oil burners is 3/16 flare. Not compression. If your burner has a compression fitting on the high pressure line, it is not a modern burner. Burner manufacturers stopped using compression fittings on the high pressure line in the 1960s

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    New nozzle requires combustion test. Do you have a smoke gun, draft gauge and a combustion analyzer?
    The part you wrecked is easy to come by. Every tech who does oil has a few on the truck, various lengths.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45
    edited November 2021

    So what is stripped the inside threads in the flare nut or the threads on the nozzle assembly?

    The nozzle assembly unfortunately. I think it actually got gummed up by removing the thumb screw that holds it in place.
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,466
    Hate to say it, but you are going to have to get another nozzle assembly. There is a possibility you could find a longer flare nut that will go past those missing threads, but unlikely unless you have a good supply store nearby.
    When you put the new one in, make sure you also have a new supply line, and just tighten it a little. It doesn't take very much at all to get it to seal up.
    Rick
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,378
    edited November 2021
    The Beckett burners (along with other manuf.) have a thumb screw that is recessed on one side to accommodate the flare nut. On the rare occasion that I installed it backwards the flare would not seal and leave a mess of high pressure oil all over the burner. I'm wondering if our OP tried to tighten the flare nut on that burner with a reversed escussion/retainer nut until it stripped. I only did that once many many years ago. Live and learn.

    Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment. Fred Brooks

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • pell
    pell Member Posts: 23
    This happens to me once in a while. I grab a new nut of the truck, thread it on the jay tube off the burner (sometimes using pliers to turn the nut) and it will cut a new thread on the J-tube. Has yet to fail me. Knock on wood.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,470
    @EdTheHeaterMan

    Funny how when you screw up good you never do it again. Been there done that one myself
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45
    Im pretty sure I gunked the thread taking the thumb retainer off.  I had to use pliers to get it started, and it got sticky again near the end, so I'm going to blame last tech for cross threading it.  Might have to see if this "wood" burning fireplace actually works while I wait for supplyhouse to fill the order.


    EdTheHeaterMan
  • 426hemi
    426hemi Member Posts: 86
    What kind of burner is it? If parts are not available you might want to either stock lots of spares or change to a Beckett Carlin or Reilo burner that has parts available. Running an antique burner or boiler means stocking up on spares!
  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45
    edited November 2021
    Major kudos to Joe Fauci at totalboilersupply dot com.  Everyone else was saying late Nov to early Dec delivery (supplyhouse), he got it direct from Carlin to me in 4 days.

    I actually think I was able to do enough thread surgery to get the supply line on tight enough to old one, but better safe that sorry.