Freaking Out Over High Pressure in One Pipe Steam System
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Pictures of the boiler and piping, especially the relief valve. It should have opened before it got to that pressure. Is there a king valve on the outlet of the boiler that is closed? Even with no venting it is unlikely to be able to make that much pressure in the whole system unless the boiler is massively oversized.
Don't run it until you figure it out. If it is a residential boiler the relief valve should blow off at 15 psi(that in itself can be very dangerous, a room full of steam can burn lots of things including the inside of your lungs). It is time to call a professional that knows steam well1 -
Here is a picture just after the burner was installed. The pressure relief is rated at 15 psi. No sign that it discharged. Pressure this morning is about 5 PSI.
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/posts/14488/New boiler 006.jpg
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It is not clear if this is the first time this boiler has been fired or the first time this season.
Whatever, it is quite clear that for some reason or other your two (or, I hope, more) primary lines of safety didn't function. The pressure relief valve should have opened at 15 psi. The pressuretrol, if there is only one, should have shut off the burner at 2 or 2.5 psi, depending on the type.
Neither thing happened. That boiler is, in the present state, completely unsafe.
Unless you yourself are really good at trouble shooting, I'd leave it off until you can get a pro. in there. That said, however, there are a couple of things you can look at
First, the pressure relief valve. What is it rated for? There should be a tag on it which gives the pressure at which it opens. What does that say? Then check the piping to it. Is there any possibility that it is plugged, or that there is a closed valve on it -- or even (we've seen it) that there is a cap or plug on the outlet?
Second, since your pressure gauge seems to have moved, it's probably OK, though since it has apparently been overpressured it will need to be replaced.
Third, what is the water level on the sight glass? Is it correct?
But anyway -- shut off the emergency switch. Pull the fuse (or open the circuit breaker and put tape over it). And call a pro.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
If it was mine I'd be inspecting the gauge.
Was the piping to the boiler still cold? Any heat in any piping or radiators?
Do all of the radiators have vents and are all of the valves open?
You said it's still reading 5 PSI or so, is the boiler cool?Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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pressure relief rated at 15 psi, no sign it opened. Water is level is halfway between min and max. This is a boiler I've had for about 10 years. First start up for the season. So boiler started from room temperature.0
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ChrisJ: near pipes are slightly warmer than room temperature. No radiators have any warmth. Tested the lever on the pressure relief, and no discharge. Gauge still reads about 4 psi. Opened skim valve, a little dribble but no steam. Gauge still at 4 psi. So, the gauge seems faulty.0
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My first guess would be that your gauge is junk.
If your system went into a slight vacuum on the last shut down, it could have pulled the needle down under zero.
There usually is a stop peg to prevent that.
So the needle may be just flying in the wind.
Most steamers that size would not get much pressure, if any up, in 10 minutes from a cold start.
Were the risers warm at all?
Could you post a picture of the gauge?0 -
Have to admit that I suspect the gauge, too -- and as I noted, if it wasn't before and was telling the truth, it's junk now anyway.
But I would surely want to check everything else...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Got a pic from the front?0
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Gauge after ten minutes from restarting boiler:
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After the gauge is changed drain out all the dirty water from the boiler. Flush the boiler until water is clean.
JakeSteam: The Perfect Fluid for Heating and Some of the Problems
by Jacob (Jake) Myron1 -
Any advice on a replacement gauge? Is an "internal syphon" gauge something special?0
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Just means the pigtail is built in. (and, as the passages are small, more likely to get filled with crud)Rob_40 said:Any advice on a replacement gauge? Is an "internal syphon" gauge something special?
If it were me, I'd replace it with a standard gauge and pigtail set up. Use a cross with plugs for the bottom connection instead of an elbow. From the boiler: nipple, cross, nipple, shutoff cock, pigtail , gauge.Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.1 -
Yeah,delcrossv said:
Just means the pigtail is built in. (and, as the passages are small, more likely to get filled with crud)Rob_40 said:Any advice on a replacement gauge? Is an "internal syphon" gauge something special?
If it were me, I'd replace it with a standard gauge and pigtail set up. Use a cross with plugs for the bottom connection instead of an elbow. From the boiler: nipple, cross, nipple, shutoff cock, pigtail , gauge.
Internal siphon aka useless gauge that clogs fast but gets the boiler out the door.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Hard to tell from pics. Is relief valve piping flush against the cinderblock or is there an air gap under that piping? Gauge is almost certainly useless.0
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There is about six inches between floor and bottom of discharge pipe.0
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Pick up a 0-30 pressure gauge with a garden hose female fitting and stick it on the drain port on the boiler. Clean out the drain by flushing first.0
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Gauge replaced, and pressure barely registers on the 30 PSI dial. So, I can sleep with heat without worries that the house will explode. Anyone recommend a 3, 4 or 5 PSI gauge? Thanks for everyone's insight.0
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@Rob_40
You can find gauges at Amazon or Supply House.com. Big box likely won't have a 5psi gauge. Winters is one brand that I guess is ok.1 -
I had to order a WIKA 1-3 PSI direct from WIKA, could not find the one I wanted anywhere else.0
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Supply House has a 0-5 psi Winters gauge for around $25. Putting one in today, so I'll report back.Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0
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Wika is all metric, which strains my already overtaxed brain.0
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Friendly reminder.....by code you are required to have a 30psi gauge. So if you want a 3 or 5 psi gauge, use a Tee and install both a 3/5psi and a 30psi gauge. Just in case something happens....your covered.
I used a 5psi gauge alone for years and the pros here gave me the advice on the 30psi.0 -
Here's what I just did. Little wonky, but I didn't want to risk cracking a 60 year old pigtail.
My system pressure is so low, I'm switching to an ounces gauge.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
This is my installation from about 10 years ago. Just saying.Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
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Ounces is crazy talk.delcrossv said:Here's what I just did. Little wonky, but I didn't want to risk cracking a 60 year old pigtail.
My system pressure is so low, I'm switching to an ounces gauge.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I have a 15 ounce gauge and that's too much. When I have a few bucks burning a hole in my pocket I'm getting something with a lower scale.ChrisJ said:
Ounces is crazy talk.delcrossv said:Here's what I just did. Little wonky, but I didn't want to risk cracking a 60 year old pigtail.
My system pressure is so low, I'm switching to an ounces gauge.
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You referring to me? Yes, but I know it has to be open at all times. There's a set screw to lock it (in case of idiots). Guess the inspector didn't have a problem with it when it went in.mattmia2 said:Is there a valve between the boiler and the pressuretrol?
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
I'm running a 2" WC gauge without a pig tail, just an 18" tall air trap and it runs about half scale most of the time.KC_Jones said:
I have a 15 ounce gauge and that's too much. When I have a few bucks burning a hole in my pocket I'm getting something with a lower scale.ChrisJ said:
Ounces is crazy talk.delcrossv said:Here's what I just did. Little wonky, but I didn't want to risk cracking a 60 year old pigtail.
My system pressure is so low, I'm switching to an ounces gauge.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Why the cross fitting instead of an elbow, or maybe a T fitting? Does it serve as a cleanout?delcrossv said:
Just means the pigtail is built in. (and, as the passages are small, more likely to get filled with crud)Rob_40 said:Any advice on a replacement gauge? Is an "internal syphon" gauge something special?
If it were me, I'd replace it with a standard gauge and pigtail set up. Use a cross with plugs for the bottom connection instead of an elbow. From the boiler: nipple, cross, nipple, shutoff cock, pigtail , gauge.0
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