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Bleed Valve Recommendations

LmAcres
LmAcres Member Posts: 7
Hi

I'm looking to replace the bleed valves on my old convectors (1941). Currently the valves are mounted through the face of the steel cover and connect to the convector via copper tubing. They've been painted over and gummed up through the years and since I'm refinishing the covers I wanted to get new valves. I can't find identical replacements, so I'm wondering if this style is even made anymore, or if I should remove the tubing and install new valves directly into the top of the convector? Seeing as the cover once installed would prevent access to the new valves, would you recommend automatic valves? Or are manual the way to go and remove the cover as needed (if needed).

Thanks

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,575
    Automatic vents eventually leak. I think they would go unnoticed in your situation so I wouldn't recommend those. If you soak them in boiling water the paint will likely come off. You may be able to clean them up in citric acid or CLR but that might take the plating off too.
    LmAcres
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,453
    Might have trouble replacing those. I am not sure what thread those are but for some reason they don't look like 1/8" or 1/4" pipe thread to me.

    I suppose depending on the convector maybe the hole could be drilled and tapped to a pipe thread
    LmAcres
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,575
    Looking at their other post it is a flare fitting. The knob on the outside and the outlet on the inside of the cabinet seems like a bad idea.

    Is this a private home? I was thinking of a recent post where someone posted about a remote bleeder valve that was in an apartment complex and I am sure the tenants wouldn't care about a leaking auto air vent. You could probably find a way to adapt the NPT of an ordinary coin key vent to flare and mount it through the cabinet.
    LmAcres