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Taco Air Scoop

BigMak
BigMak Member Posts: 38
what is the minimum horizontal run require for the air scoop to function effectively?

I heard min of 18".

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 9,678
    Yeah you want in in a straight section of pipe without turbulence. 18" is what I remember but longer is better. You want the air bubbles to rise to the top
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,736
    What you really want is a spirovent or something like it.
    STEVEusaPASuperTech
  • Ctoilman
    Ctoilman Member Posts: 105
    I don't use air scoops or Spirovents....they all leak eventually so why bother?  A simple automatic air vent works fine and when it too leaks its an easy change out.
    GroundUpRich_49SuperTech
  • Rich_49
    Rich_49 Member Posts: 2,602
    Ctoilman said:

    I don't use air scoops or Spirovents....they all leak eventually so why bother?  A simple automatic air vent works fine and when it too leaks its an easy change out.

    Please tell us exactly what you utilize to remove air from systems without slowing the flow so air can be efficiently removed
    You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
    Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC
    732-751-1560
    Serving most of New Jersey, Eastern Pa .
    Consultation, Design & Installation anywhere
    Rich McGrath 732-581-3833
    CanuckerSuperTech
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 741
    I prefer the B&G IAS... is more effective and still just a hunk of cast iron with a replaceable air vent on top( or connected to the compression tank). I too steer clear of all in one packaged air removers. I'd rather put in an EAS that can use any air vent.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • BigMak
    BigMak Member Posts: 38
    What does EAS stand for?
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 741
    Enhanced Air Separator.... B&G's high efficiency coalesing air separator in the smaller sizes.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    BigMak
  • BigMak
    BigMak Member Posts: 38
    edited October 10
    @The Steam Whisperer, I was looking at the capabilities of the B&G, and I like that it is a sediment remover as well. I should swap out my taco for this, but its smallest size is 2", would need a 1-1/4". my system is ancient and has a ton of slug in the lines. I imagine this will help to remove that as well as the air.

    any other recommendations for removing sediments from system. I don't think just a flush will do it. I also can't be to aggressive, as it may damage it do to its age.
  • Joe Mattiello
    Joe Mattiello Member Posts: 616
    Hi BigMak, instruction sheet calls out 18" to minimize turbulence and help the air float along the top of the scoop where internal baffle helps expel air. also, it needs to be installed in horizontal pipe run, and never vertical because of the air elimination design. Taco also offers Vortec which creates a low pressure internally to expel air, and lastly, most effective is the 49 series vent with pal-rings to crash with medium to and expel air bubbles. hopefully this was helpful
    Joe Mattiello
    N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
    Taco Comfort Solutions
    BigMak
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 14,868
    Here is a great option, it is a high efficiency air removal device along with dirt separation, and a magnetic function for magnetite removal. Top is easily removable for cleaning.

    As to @Ctoilman point about leaks, the top assembly on most all the microbubblers is exactly the same as the float type air vents assembly. No less, or more prone to leaking :)

    Leaking air vents is often due to crud in the fluid. The device shown handles all the common problems with air, dirt and small particle removal. Why wouldn't you want toe protect your system and components and keep efficiencies high with clean fluids?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    BigMak
  • Robert_25
    Robert_25 Member Posts: 338
    edited October 11
    I imagine you can get away with less than 18" if the velocity is low.  

    On my system I used a 1.5" B&G IAS that I got cheap as an NOS item.  The straight pipe requirements on the IAS are a little less than a traditional scoop.  The 3/4" air vent that came with it is quite impressive... although I imagine it would be expensive to replace.




  • BigMak
    BigMak Member Posts: 38
    @ hotrod: my boiler is 75yrs old. it never had a dirt & magnet separator on it. I can just imagine how much debris must be in system. I didn't install one when i repiped, probably should have. At this point, would it be necessary? And if I did, would it be effective if I only installed on one of the supply lines as it would be easiest.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 14,868
    It"s really your call. Yes it would be a nice addition, but with that many years without one...
    Just as long as it run quiet, air-free. the noise is what bothers most folks when you have inadequate air removal.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    BigMak