Taco Air Scoop

BigMak

what is the minimum horizontal run require for the air scoop to function effectively?

I heard min of 18".

EBEBRATT-Ed

Yeah you want in in a straight section of pipe without turbulence. 18" is what I remember but longer is better. You want the air bubbles to rise to the top

unclejohn

What you really want is a spirovent or something like it.

Ctoilman

I don't use air scoops or Spirovents....they all leak eventually so why bother?  A simple automatic air vent works fine and when it too leaks its an easy change out.

Rich_49

Ctoilman said:

I don't use air scoops or Spirovents....they all leak eventually so why bother?  A simple automatic air vent works fine and when it too leaks its an easy change out.

Please tell us exactly what you utilize to remove air from systems without slowing the flow so air can be efficiently removed

The Steam Whisperer

I prefer the B&G IAS... is more effective and still just a hunk of cast iron with a replaceable air vent on top( or connected to the compression tank). I too steer clear of all in one packaged air removers. I'd rather put in an EAS that can use any air vent.

BigMak

What does EAS stand for?

The Steam Whisperer

Enhanced Air Separator.... B&G's high efficiency coalesing air separator in the smaller sizes.

BigMak

@The Steam Whisperer, I was looking at the capabilities of the B&G, and I like that it is a sediment remover as well. I should swap out my taco for this, but its smallest size is 2", would need a 1-1/4". my system is ancient and has a ton of slug in the lines. I imagine this will help to remove that as well as the air.

any other recommendations for removing sediments from system. I don't think just a flush will do it. I also can't be to aggressive, as it may damage it do to its age.

Joe Mattiello

Hi BigMak, instruction sheet calls out 18" to minimize turbulence and help the air float along the top of the scoop where internal baffle helps expel air. also, it needs to be installed in horizontal pipe run, and never vertical because of the air elimination design. Taco also offers Vortec which creates a low pressure internally to expel air, and lastly, most effective is the 49 series vent with pal-rings to crash with medium to and expel air bubbles. hopefully this was helpful

hot_rod

Here is a great option, it is a high efficiency air removal device along with dirt separation, and a magnetic function for magnetite removal. Top is easily removable for cleaning.

As to @Ctoilman point about leaks, the top assembly on most all the microbubblers is exactly the same as the float type air vents assembly. No less, or more prone to leaking

Leaking air vents is often due to crud in the fluid. The device shown handles all the common problems with air, dirt and small particle removal. Why wouldn't you want toe protect your system and components and keep efficiencies high with clean fluids?

Robert_25

I imagine you can get away with less than 18" if the velocity is low.  

On my system I used a 1.5" B&G IAS that I got cheap as an NOS item.  The straight pipe requirements on the IAS are a little less than a traditional scoop.  The 3/4" air vent that came with it is quite impressive... although I imagine it would be expensive to replace.

BigMak

@ hotrod: my boiler is 75yrs old. it never had a dirt & magnet separator on it. I can just imagine how much debris must be in system. I didn't install one when i repiped, probably should have. At this point, would it be necessary? And if I did, would it be effective if I only installed on one of the supply lines as it would be easiest.

hot_rod

It"s really your call. Yes it would be a nice addition, but with that many years without one...
Just as long as it run quiet, air-free. the noise is what bothers most folks when you have inadequate air removal.