I think this is a bleed valve...

LmAcres

Hi Everyone
Just purchased a new old home and have never before had a heating system like this. I'd like to remove the radiator covers as part of some renovation but what I believe is the bleed valve is connected to the element by a coiled copper tube which limits how far I can pull the cover off. Is this something I can safely disconnect? Any steps to take beforehand? Are there any issues that could arise when restarting the heat?

The slot where you'd insert the radiator key looks like it's been painted over several times, so that's something else I'll need to address.

Thank you.

EBEBRATT-Ed

If there is a shut off valve at the other end of that tubing you can shut is and then disconnect the tubing. (It doesn't look like you do)

If not and you have shut off valves for both ends of the convector you could shut those off and then disconnect the tubing (Can't tell from that picture.)

You may also have valves in the basement.

In any event you must be prepared in case any valves don't hold. You may have to shut the boiler down and drain it

Big Ed_4

I would clean out the paint . Nice old setup

LmAcres

Thanks. There is one shut off valve on the base of each convector. Does that mean they're all daisy chained together and not independently able to shut off?

mattmia2

LmAcres said:

Thanks. There is one shut off valve on the base of each convector. Does that mean they're all daisy chained together and not independently able to shut off?

It means the valve is to turn off/balance the convector but it won't isolate it. it will regulate the flow through the convector, but the return is also under system pressure so the system water will leak out through the return if you open the radiator with the valve shut.

EdTheHeaterMan

So this can be removed easily. the first step is to remove the pressure from the system. In the basement (or boiler room) look for a gauge like one of these on your heating boiler. The pressure should be about 10 to 20 PSI (as indicated by the Red arrow I added) You must find a way to get the pressure to below 3 PSI. Turn off the electric power to the heater, then you will need to locate the fill valve and make sure it is turned off. Then get a garden hose and connect it to a boiler drain valve and then open the drain valve to let water out to reduce the pressure. For more help on this, you can find info on youtube or post pictures of your heating boiler and we can help you locate the boiler feed and boiler drain valves.

Once you have the pressure reduced, then you can remove the fitting at the cover with a pair of open-end adjustable wrenches. Once you have the fitting off of the radiator cover, you can put a FLARE plug on the FLARE nut you removed from the rad cover. looks like the one on the right.
Available at a local hardware store. Looks like 1/4" flare (but you may have 3/16" of 5/16") It must be a FLARE plug. a pipe plug won't fit and seal properly. If you are not sure, then get all three sizes.

You could also disconnect it at the lower fitting but you would need to use a FLARE cap Looks like the one on the left and the center.

Once you plug the tube or cap the fitting, you can put the heater pressure back to the original pressure you found before you started this project. then you can turn the heater back on.

Mr.Ed

LmAcres

Mr. Ed
Thank you, very helpful, I'm learning a lot here. I've attached a few pictures. My instincts are that the drain valve is part of the piping on the left side of the furnace.

The fitting on the cover certainly seems like the easier one to remove.

EdTheHeaterMan

OK, it looks like your pressure is at 15 PSI and you have identified the valves needed to reduce the pressure. Close either of the yellow handle valves. Open either of the black handle valves to reduce the pressure. Water will come out of the drain valve, so a 5-gallon bucket or a garden hose to a drain will be needed. It should take less than 5 gallons of water to get the pressure below 3 PSI. Once the pressure is down the job upstairs is easy.

PC7060

That system looks very similar to several CI WM boiler (and others) I’ve run across in my area (VA).  The systems are piped in a direct in / out loop with no tempering of the return water to prevent the boiler from condensing. All the manual say this is a no no but the units seem to keep trucking along. Is this common?

mattmia2

PC7060 said:

That system looks very similar to several CI WM boiler (and others) I’ve run across in my area (VA).  The systems are piped in a direct in / out loop with no tempering of the return water to prevent the boiler from condensing. All the manual say this is a no no but the units seem to keep trucking along. Is this common?

It is fine for the boiler to condense until the system gets up to temp. it is only if the return water temp is so low even after the system comes up to temp that it causes continuous condensation that it can cause damage.

EdTheHeaterMan

@PC7060
Here is a piping diagram for the boiler pictured above. This is from the manufacturer's installation instructions.

I'm seeing the piping you described as a "NO NO" in these instructions as a YES YES. Of course, this assumes the boiler is connected to a copper-tube baseboard system and the entire system will get above the 130° recommended return temperature in pretty short order. Later on in the instructions, there is mention of large water volume or low-temperature systems that need to have a bypass to address the problem you are concerned with.

I believe there are many who install the near boiler piping incorrectly because they don't take the time to read the instructions. The fact that you are aware of this problem means your installations will be completed correctly. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and keep learning.

Mr.Ed

LmAcres

Well draining the system was easy. Not much water came out, maybe a gallon to get the pressure down, but now it's time to remove the covers & tubing. I'll report back when it's time to put everything back together, I'll probably have some questions at that point. Thanks everyone for your help thus far, I appreciate all of your insights and knowledge.