How does the piping look on this hot water boiler?

kflory

Just had a friend have a new boiler installed, they used a mix of copper and black steel pipe. I'm wondering if this is alright?

EdTheHeaterMan

The first thing that jumps out at me is the 18" of approach piping into the air scoop.
see the submittal sheet here https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/AirScoopBro.pdf

There is an elbow in there. the elbow defeats the purpose of the 18" needed to establish a laminar flow to maximize the effectiveness of the scoop. It is hard to see all the piping at the position you took the photo. Can't tell if the circulators are on the Supply, pumping away from the expansion tank, or if they are pumping into the return of the boiler.

No visible flow control or flow check valves. They are required to keep the heat from moving thru the zones not calling for heat. The circulator pumps may have Internal Flow Check valves (so they may not be visible) so look for IFC in the model number of the circulators.

Combining copper, steel, and iron fittings is not such a big deal.

Ctoilman

It's functional and correct, maybe not real pretty but that's subjective. It appears to have been a lowest bidder job and that's what he got.

Ctoilman

Well, to nitpick I suppose, the flue baromatic damper should be at the chimney, not right off the boiler. Where it is now will make the unit louder than it needs to be too.

EdTheHeaterMan

Ctoilman said:

Well, to nitpick I suppose, the flue baromatic damper should be at the chimney, not right off the boiler. Where it is now will make the unit louder than it needs to be too.

And difficult to get a good combustion test without dilution of flue gas from the barometric. but that was probably not completed as recommended by the manuf's instructions either.

There is no mixing valve on the domestic hot water coil. That might not pass inspection. Depends on the competency of the inspector.

This is on page 11 of the installation manual

HVACNUT

Yeah definitely swap out the tee with the length above it for the draft regulator. Then the installer can come back, make a hole, and do an actual test.
No Firomatic valve at the burner. Filter at the tank? And that oil line is just begging to get snapped off.

Derheatmeister

I agree with most of the Issues noted above in addition to
1. The Screw driver type Isoflange that were used get stuck.
2. Pump a holic..Why so may pumps? why not use a single "Smart" one in conjunction with zonevalves
3. No proper supports.
4. No Drain valve on Expansion tank
5. No proper combustion test could have been done due to the Vent setup.
6. No union on relief valve for service..
7. Is the venting made of Metal or is it Aluminium? Cannot tell.
7. And yes..We never transition between copper and iron like this.

bucksnort

Drain valve needs another 1/4 turn.

psb75

It would be really handy if there were flushing valves on the supply and return lines to the DHW coil in the boiler. And then have them used for service...on occasion. Putting new Taco ECM circulators in would have saved the owner much money in operational cost of the system. Fortunately those circs are "pumping away."

Boon

Shouldn't there be a relief valve on the domestic coil?

rick in Alaska

Just to answer your question, mixing is not a problem with anything I have ever saw unless there is a lot of make up water being used. After the air is out of the water, it seems to make it be alright. At least that has been my experience.
And to Boon: I don't remember what part of the plumbing code where I found this, because it was quite a long time ago, but it says you don't need a relief valve on anything with a heat exchanger less than 3" in diameter.
Rick