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Switching out Finned Tube Baseboard Heater for Toe Kick
refields
Member Posts: 45
Hello!
I am looking to switch out a fin tube baseboard with a Toe Kick heater (K120 Twin-Flo III Kick Space Heater). The baseboards in my house are all connected to a single 1" common pipe loop in the basement from/to the boiler. Individual supply/return lines run up from this common loop to each baseboard in the house.
The K120 manual specs a regular tee on the supply side and a diverter tee on the return (http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1249544810331/Beacon-Morris-Kickspace-Installation.pdf).
My current set up looks like the baseboard has regular 1"x1"x1/2" reducer tees connecting from the common loop to the supply and returns, and another component which I cant identify on the return.
My questions are, can someone identify the component in the attached photo and will the current setup work with the Toe Kick?
Thanks,
Rob
I am looking to switch out a fin tube baseboard with a Toe Kick heater (K120 Twin-Flo III Kick Space Heater). The baseboards in my house are all connected to a single 1" common pipe loop in the basement from/to the boiler. Individual supply/return lines run up from this common loop to each baseboard in the house.
The K120 manual specs a regular tee on the supply side and a diverter tee on the return (http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1249544810331/Beacon-Morris-Kickspace-Installation.pdf).
My current set up looks like the baseboard has regular 1"x1"x1/2" reducer tees connecting from the common loop to the supply and returns, and another component which I cant identify on the return.
My questions are, can someone identify the component in the attached photo and will the current setup work with the Toe Kick?
Thanks,
Rob
0
Comments
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It is a corroded butterfly shut off . Most likely the risers to the heater are not properly pitch upward to the bleeder ...
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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I prefer TURBONICS TOESTER tow kick heaters. You have to create a pressure differential across the heater to create flow so you need a tee.
If the supply is below the heater you will need one monoflo tee. If the supply is above the heater you will need two. I use real Monoflo tees not cheap chinese diverter tees.
One tee is on the output of the heater. Two is on the input and output of the heater.0 -
Thanks Homer. Are you talking about the Red Ring tees?0
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Big Ed, I dont think its a butterfly valve. There is no valve stem.0
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Wire brush that fitting and photograph it again so we can see what it is...please.0
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Hello psb75, see below. these are some clearer shots. Looks like some kind of valve with no handles. There is one on each return (outlet side of baseboard heaters) back to the common supply loop. Could this be used to adjust the flow on each leg using a flathead screwdriver?
I didnt want to wire brush because of how old they are. Also I looked pretty carefully and didn't see any kind of model number/marking on them.
Thanks,
Rob0 -
That is a balancing valve, installed to balance the flow between the various radiation circuits. They are needed on systems piped direct return rather than reverse return.—
Bburd0 -
Thanks Bburd. Is there a protocol to follow for adjusting the BV on each circuit?0
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It’s basically common sense. If a circuit is too warm, throttle its balancing valve a bit until it comes in line with the others. Those are quarter turn plug valves: fully open when the screwdriver slot is parallel with the pipe, and fully closed when it is perpendicular.
Of course considering their age, and how long it has probably been since they were last adjusted… messing with them could bring trouble. I would not do it unless there is obvious imbalance in the system. Generally they are set when the system is first installed and don’t need readjustment unless alterations are made.—
Bburd1
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