Trying to find replacement for vintage white rogers diaphragm gas valve.

richdoh1

I am trying to find a replacement part or if there is some other part that can be retrofit to work. The company who diagnosed it to be this valve said they cannot find a part and that I need to get a new boiler. I found the exact needed part on ebay only to have USPS lose my package. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The part is a White Rogers diaphragm gas valve series 2600.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I am sure Honeywell make an equal valve. But we can't hep without some more information, Gas valve voltage and pipe size btu of boiler. Pictures will help.

mattmia2

If they can't match up an equivalent valve out of a catalog, they aren't the right person to replace and adjust the valve.

richdoh1

JUGHNE

Can you back up and show the actual burner included with the gas valve?

richdoh1

richdoh1

The picture with the gas valve label is the cover I took off the valve.

JUGHNE

Does this look like a modulating gas valve based on the temp probe stuck into that low heel 90 elbow?

Saw something like this on an old CI boiler of the fifties made by, IIRC, Bryant.

richdoh1

If that temp probe was bad would it stop it from firing up? Right now If I push down thr thing on the valve it lights. As soon as I let off it shuts off. See picture of what I push down on.

JUGHNE

I was wrong.
I changed that boiler out a few years ago for a variety of reasons.
But, of course saved the book...just found it...."Effective 7-1-1954".

The gas train consists of separate pressure regulator and then the diaphragm valve.
The pilot used the Baso type safety valve.

The part I thought was a modulation device is actually the water temp limit control.
When high temp was reached the hi limit valve would allow full flow of gas to the top of the diaphragm which would stop the gas flow until the water cooled.

You would have to add an electric temp limit control inserted where the existing limit is now.
Otherwise some gas valve could be subbed for your existing, someone would have to decide if it is slow opening or step opening.

There seems to be more to this....can you back up more to show the entire front of the boiler.

richdoh1

richdoh1

The space is very limited where the boiled is located. Thats as far back as I can get.

JUGHNE

The 24 VAC coil should pull that part in that you hold.
Either the coil is burned out, or you are not getting the 24 V needed.
But when you hold that button down you are flowing a fair amount of NG into the boiler....hoping there is a pilot flame to ignite all the burners.

My best guess is that the other 2 connections made to the large 90 elbow are for water temp sensor and pressure gauge connection. Are those gauges up higher on the boiler?

This is a great project for Tim....our gas valve Guru...he may come on board sometime soon.

mattmia2

Is the safety switch at the bottom reset, is it holding? the "basso switch"? If it isn't holding, does it fire if you press the reset lever on it?

richdoh1

No it doesnt fire if reset. I reset it and it shows "on". But still doesnt fire. I have put something on that button to make it light and stay lit. And set timers to remind me to shut it off. I did find out that even if it is held down, if the thermostat clicks off it shuts itself off.

richdoh1

The gas and burners shut off I mean, not the baso switch.

mattmia2

That high limit control will shut it off even if the solenoid is held in. The thermostat signal will not turn it off. Did you (or someone)check for 24vac at that coil with a voltmeter?

If i understand everyone else's comments, that could be replaced with a modern standing pilot combination valve and an aquastat.(of course that money might be better put toward a new boiler since the valve won't be inexpensive and there will be a fair bit of labor in retrofitting it)

Steamhead

We ran into something like this on an old American-Standard boiler- replaced the gas valve, regulator and BASO switch with a standard Honeywell VR-series slow-opening valve, and an aquastat for the limit. Worked great.

retiredguy

WOW, I haven't seen one of these gas valves in about 50 years. Everything controls or is controlled by gas pressure both above and below the diaphram of the valve.It looks like someone added that BASO pilot switch as a back-up for the safety pilot. If I remember correctly, to open the gas valve gas pressure is vented from the top of the diaphram while gas pressure is added to the bottom of the diaphram. To close the gas valve this action is reversed and the gas pressure above the diaphram plus a small spring on top of the diaphram closes the valve.

To replace this gas valve you will have to replace the temperature limit control, the low water control if there is one, the safety pilot and any other control that has the travel tubing attached to it with modern switch type controls. There is also a gas pressure regulator which I think is below that brass cap on the top of the valve that has that 1/4" brass comp X male tee with the tubing attached. You could use a either a separate regulator or one that is part of a combo gas valve. Hope this helps.

JUGHNE

There are standing pilot/thermocouple valves available that will pass 280,000 btu,
24 volt, slow opening, 3/4" in & out and with regulator built in.

Someone should be able to find that easily.
Whether or not you need slow opening or fast could be determined by putting a gauge on the burner manifold and observing pressure at this old valves opens.

Where are you located?

Wilma

I need help, need to replace the diaphragm valve for A.O. Smithway boiler

mattmia2

You have to retrofit it with a modern combination valve.

mattmia2

This isn't a modulating burner that is controlled off of boiler temp and gas pressure is it? There would be more retrofit for that.