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ReddyHeater troubleshooting
vtfarmer
Member Posts: 108
in Oil Heating
I have an oil salamander aka torpedo aka construction heater that I use in my shop when fixing tractors and stuff http://www.reddyheaters.net/kerosene_forced_air_heaters/r60.php and it has started doing something really really annoying: it runs for ~15-20 mins fine then shuts down with a big puff of nasty smoke. If I shut it off manually before it turns off on its own then it shuts down cleanly.
If I reset it once warm it will run for less time - less than 10 mins - then it shuts down with the nasty smoke. If I need to feel my hands to manipulate tiny bolts I'll keep resetting it but sometimes I value breathing more so I'll give up. Once it cools it'll run fine for longer again then the cycle repeats. I can sort of hear it starting to struggle before it cuts out, but it doesn't smoke when it does this (just when it shuts down).
These heaters are notoriously finicky about fuel quality, pressure, nozzle condition, etc. I'd replace the nozzle but it's [CENSORED] dollars! If it's definitely in need of a nozzle then I'll reluctantly pay [CENSORED] for the nozzle, but I don't want to be a Parts Changer.
If I put my failed-out-of-engineering-school-many-years-ago hat on, I think about what could make it run fine when cold but not fine when warm. These heaters use a low pressure air pump to siphon fuel into the nozzle and maybe the vanes are worn so the pressure is dropping as the pump housing warms up? I guess i could put a pressure gauge on the air pump and monitor it while it runs, but the gauge is special, needs special fittings, and costs [CENSORED].
Do any of you have experience with this issue?
If I reset it once warm it will run for less time - less than 10 mins - then it shuts down with the nasty smoke. If I need to feel my hands to manipulate tiny bolts I'll keep resetting it but sometimes I value breathing more so I'll give up. Once it cools it'll run fine for longer again then the cycle repeats. I can sort of hear it starting to struggle before it cuts out, but it doesn't smoke when it does this (just when it shuts down).
These heaters are notoriously finicky about fuel quality, pressure, nozzle condition, etc. I'd replace the nozzle but it's [CENSORED] dollars! If it's definitely in need of a nozzle then I'll reluctantly pay [CENSORED] for the nozzle, but I don't want to be a Parts Changer.
If I put my failed-out-of-engineering-school-many-years-ago hat on, I think about what could make it run fine when cold but not fine when warm. These heaters use a low pressure air pump to siphon fuel into the nozzle and maybe the vanes are worn so the pressure is dropping as the pump housing warms up? I guess i could put a pressure gauge on the air pump and monitor it while it runs, but the gauge is special, needs special fittings, and costs [CENSORED].
Do any of you have experience with this issue?
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Comments
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this sounds like a fuel problem. have you checked the fuel filter (28 29 & 30 on parts diagram) also check the nozzle for a screen that could be clogged there. Finally it appears there is a filter of sorts on the motor/pump assy. (12-7 in the diagram) these are all maintenance items.
If that is not the problem, then maybe it is time for a new portable heater.
These are not like the normal gun type oil burners we might find on a heating system we are familiar with. That said the principles of combustion are the same. Fuel + Air + Heat = Flame
Respectfully submitted
Mr.EdEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Cool. An air atomizing burner. I have worked on many but none like this little guy. 30-100gallons per hour was my stuff
Following you link get's you to the service manuals which I read through one of them and they seem to be well written. Don't know which model you have so I don't know which manual to look at?
You mentioned resetting it, so I am assuming it's tripping flame failure
If it is it can be difficult to find.
It could be the photocell sensor or the safety control.
Or I would suspect the air pump may be worn.
I am sure it could be fixed but question how much time and money it's worth.
I would clean the nozzle and any filters. Really the air pump seems to be the big deal on these. It supplies compressed air to the nozzle and somehow (by venturi action?) draws fuel from the oil tank
The mention in the manual about replacing the nozzle seal or "0" ring at the nozzle depending on the model0 -
Thanks guys! I did read the manual, I have the 60k BTU one. The sticker lists a bunch of models so I don't know which one this one is. Yes, it does trip but it doesn't go out then time out and shut off, it gets rougher and rougher then shuts off with the combustion happening right up until it stops. Power cycling it gets it going again.
My hunch is something to do with the air pump. A dirty or damaged fuel filter or nozzle would result in poor combustion all of the time; this issue creeps up as it runs. The fitting for the air pressure gauge can't be proprietary, I'll see if i can get a gauge on it and confirm or eliminate my hypothesis about the air pressure dropping as it operates.
I could buy a new heater...but where's the fun in that!
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Ya got yourself a Reddyheater. As soon as you buy'em it's a gamble wether thay will run or not. Sounds like you got some time out of it, be happy. Throw it out and on to plan "B".
Or get a heater for the shop to fix the shop heater.
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This site should sell a tee shirt with "I'm not a parts changer!" or something like that on it: I put a gauge on the air pump and sure enough, not enough pressure!
I turned the regulator up but it couldn't make it over 3 PSI - it's supposed to be set to 3.6. I took the pump apart and it doesn't look good. Lots of wear on one side and lots of black dust from the vanes and/or rotor in the pump.
The rotor/vane kit isn't super expensive (half the cost of a nozzle for this thing!) so I'm going to put one it. If I still can't get the pressure I need I'll see if I can get someone to mill the worn end plate for a six pack or something.
Stay tuned for the results when I get the pump parts!0 -
Is there just a little rubber vane oil pump in there like a hardware store drill pump?0
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@mattmia2 not quite: it's a fiber/resin vane pump with a "puck" for the center that pumps air, not oil. This supplies air at low pressure (3.6 psi) to an atomizing nozzle which siphons oil out of the tank. Here's the one I needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VV84M41/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=10
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I have a LP heater of nearly the same design. Simpler componets.
Seems to be cleaner burning, could still gas you in a tight building though.
Almost the same noise factor...that is for safety....you can stand the noise for only so long.
Got it at a farm supply store for less than any oil heater.0 -
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It is exactly a venturi, just like a carburetor. Seems like a small oil pump would be far simpler. Maybe it is an inherent safety sort of thing, if the blower doesn't work no oil is released.0
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Well folks, that fixed it. I had to adjust the air pressure a few times while it ran but after a while it stayed steady and it didn't trip! Score another one for taking measurements and drawing conclusions based on actual data.0
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