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Honeywell aquastat ID

MaxMercyMaxMercy Member Posts: 133
Short story, I need to ID this:



Long story: my 96 year old mom called last night at 9:30, no heat. I packed up everything I could think of because I serviced this in the fall and I knew it wouldn't be a routine problem. I found the control in lockout. Turns out it was a bad ignition transformer arcing to ground. I installed my backup and it ran fine for about 10 minutes. I packed up my tools and parts and started heading out when it shut down again.

This time, no lockout. Huh? Water temp only at 120F. There was no AC to burner and the burner relay wasn't engaging, so I manually engaged the burner relay on the aquastat and still no power to the burner. There was AC going in to the board. I pulled the aquastat board and found the circuit board burned badly under the burner relay. I cleaned it off best I could and hand wired the burned/missing section of foil. The relay now engaged but still no power to the burner. I removed the relay and found the output pin was burned away almost flush to the phenolic base. I was able to rout out the bottom of the relay enough with a jewelers screwdriver to expose enough tab stub to tack solder a wire to it, reinstalled the relay. Fortunately, that fixed it. I was in bed at 12:30AM..

I don't trust the repair long term as vibration will probably fracture the tacked on solder at the relay, so I'd like to get a replacement. I can't find any part numbers on the Honeywell and everything I've found on Google images either has one relay (this one has two) or missing terminals. Can anyone ID this?

Also, I think I know the answer to this, but are the relays themselves available without having to buy the whole control?

Thanks for any help on this.

Comments

  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    edited January 13
    R8182H R8182D Combination Aquastat/Protecto-relay Rebuilt 2 times. Once in November 1983 and once in September 1999. They are expensive that, is why they rebuild them. You basically did a rebuild on site. It is possible that happened previously and the repair was good for 20 years.

    Replace it with a separate Carlin 70200S primary and Honeywell L7284U L7224U aquastat. You will need a place to mount the other control. I like to mount them on a 4" square box (1900 box) connected to the aquastat with a 1/2 close nipple and 4 electric threaded connector rings if the burner does not have a convenient place for the 1900 box.

    Yours truly,
    Mr.Ed
    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    edited January 13
    Looks like the boiler is well over 40 years old. Also looks like the boiler no longer makes the domestic hot water. You could set up the L7224U (got it right here Haha) as a cold start boiler and maybe save a little on oil. In the setup bode select LL and turn the temperature down as low as possible (OFF) will be displayed on the display.

    Yours Truly,
    Mr.Ed
    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
    MaxMercy
  • MaxMercyMaxMercy Member Posts: 133

    Looks like the boiler is well over 40 years old. Also looks like the boiler no longer makes the domestic hot water. You could set up the L7224U as a cold start boiler and maybe save a little on oil. In the setup bode select LL and turn the temperature down as low as possible (OFF) will be displayed on the display.

    Thanks Ed, it is over 40 - it's actually over 50. It's a Burnham pin boiler from the 60s. I've procrastinated a bit and meant to replace that chunk years ago, but it's been running smooth and quiet although an AF burner was installed about 25 years ago. I know it's time though. Maybe this spring, which is why I didn't want to go through great expense right now. If the repair lasts till spring, that should be enough, which is why I'd love to get hold of just the relay.

    For curiosity sake, can an old boiler be safely cold fired? You're right about the DHW. Used to use the coil, then a Bock indirect was added, and that was replaced with an electric when the expensive Bock started leaking in 8 years.

    On a totally different question, does anyone make a *small* boiler these days? Mom's house is a typical 50s one level 3 bedroom ranch, maybe 1400 sq ft with the addition they added on at the time the current boiler was installed. My house is 2800sq and my boiler is grossly oversized running a 0.85 nozzle.


  • Robert O'BrienRobert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,256
    It's a R8182D well mounted
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    MaxMercyEdTheHeaterMan
  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    MaxMercy said:



    Thanks Ed,

    For curiosity sake, can an old boiler be safely cold fired? You're right about the DHW. Used to use the coil, then a Bock indirect was added, and that was replaced with an electric when the expensive Bock started leaking in 8 years.


    Yes, you can cold-start any residential cast iron or steel boiler IMHO. The drawback is if the coil gasket leaks while warm, it will leak more when cold. But anyone with your setup will usually turn off the switch over the summer making the boiler cold anyway. So what is the difference? Cold for the summer or cold start always!

    At over 40 years old adding a little boiler sealant won't void the warranty now.


    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Hercules-30310-1-lb-Boiler-Solder-Powdered-Stop-Leak?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4Etxb2l2SSb_ENaejHResGMol8diKSqED5z8ViFUvcyBSbS5n47T3GwaAnOTEALw_wcB
    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 2,373
    edited January 13
    Try mouser or digikey for the relay. Looks like it is custom labeled for honeywell so you would have to figure out the coil and the contact ratings and match up the mounting pattern.

    The contact itself is likely burned and the heat from that melted the solder and burned the trace and lead.
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 2,373
    Unless there is another high limit in series with that which will cut the burner, substituting the relay may not be the best of ideas.
  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    edited January 13

    It's a R8182D well mounted

    I Stand Corrected. H is for the remote bulb. D is the well mount. Still expensive for a replacement. At the family fuel oil business, we had a control rebuilding shop. Mostly for the GE boiler "Master Control" (we used to cover the GE boiler under our Service Contract but we also did a bunch of stack relays and the occasional aquastat relay.

    One of the guys used to collect the mercury from thermostats and store it in a mason jar. I remember playing with the liquid droplets as a kid. Many would say " That explains a lot " LOL
    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
    Robert O'Brien
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 8,123
    Sometimes you take a boiler that old that has always been hot start and make it a cold start and sometimes they start leaking
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,743

    R8182H Combination Aquastat/Protecto-relay Rebuilt 2 times. Once in November 1983 and once in September 1999. They are expensive that, is why they rebuild them. You basically did a rebuild on site. It is possible that happened previously and the repair was good for 20 years.

    Replace it with a separate Carlin 70200S primary and Honeywell L7284U aquastat. You will need a place to mount the other control. I like to mount them on a 4" square box (1900 box) connected to the aquastat with a 1/2 close nipple and 4 electric threaded connector rings if the burner does not have a convenient place for the 1900 box.

    Yours truly,
    Mr.Ed

    Stand corrected again, the L7284U is a primary control

    steve
  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    As a lifelong member of the DNA (the is the National Dyslexia Association) along with that extra glass(es) of wine last evening, I got my numbers all jumbled this morning. That is why you guys need to keep me in line. The L7224U is what I meant to say.

    Thanks @STEVEusaPA
    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    edited January 13
    mattmia2 said:

    Try mouser or digikey for the relay. Looks like it is custom labeled for honeywell so you would have to figure out the coil and the contact ratings and match up the mounting pattern.

    The contact itself is likely burned and the heat from that melted the solder and burned the trace and lead.

    This is a Honeywell Tradeline product. The OEMs used it in the 1980s to increase production line assembly of package boilers. The assembly line needed to wire up only one control.

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-R8182D1079-Combination-Protector-Relay-and-Hydronic-Heating-Control-with-High-limit-10-F-fixed-low-limit-circulator-10-F-to-25-F
    In the 1930s the installer would install a protector relay, RA117A
    A circulator relay R89A
    A high limit L409A
    A Low limit to maintain temperature for the DHW coil L409A... and
    A reverse L409B to keep the circulator from taking all the heat out of the boiler on a call for heat resulting in a cold shower.

    Package boilers included all 6 parts initially, then the triple aquastat was developed by White Rogers ad Honeywell. soon after they included the circulator and burner contact in the same box while the new cad cell relays were mounted on the burner. The really lazy boiler manufacturers went with the combination Tripple Aquastat/Protecto-relay. to the chagrin of the consumer after they found out there were no repairable parts inside them and the complete control needed to be replaced at a substantial cost.

    I remember wiring up those old systems when our company sold a "Complete Modernization" that included a new Carlin Oil Burner, Combustion Chamber, Vent connector pipe, Barometric, thermostat, and all the controls. Plus a can or two of High Heat silver spray paint to make the old girl a new look.

    That was before I used to forget the numbers LOL
    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
  • Robert O'BrienRobert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,256

    It's a R8182D well mounted

    I Stand Corrected. H is for the remote bulb. D is the well mount. Still expensive for a replacement. At the family fuel oil business, we had a control rebuilding shop. Mostly for the GE boiler "Master Control" (we used to cover the GE boiler under our Service Contract but we also did a bunch of stack relays and the occasional aquastat relay.

    One of the guys used to collect the mercury from thermostats and store it in a mason jar. I remember playing with the liquid droplets as a kid. Many would say " That explains a lot " LOL
    Crazy expensive. A L7224U and R7284 will do the trick. Or a Hydrostat 3250 and 70200 ProX or a Beckett Aquasmart & Genisys. Or mix and match
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 2,373
    @EdTheHeaterMan do you think honewell actually manufactured relays in house? i would think they would develop a spec and bid them out to omron or cde or someone like that.
  • EdTheHeaterManEdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 1,636
    mattmia2 said:

    @EdTheHeaterMan do you think honewell actually manufactured relays in house? i would think they would develop a spec and bid them out to omron or cde or someone like that.

    In the 1920s... Yes, I do think Honeywell made their own relays. I don't believe Omron or CDE were in business back then. I could be wrong.

    Edward Young
    Retired HVAC Contractor from So. Jersey Shore.
    Cleaned & services first oil heating system at age 16
    Specialized in Oil Heat and Hydronics where the competition did Gas Warm Air

    If you make an expensive repair and the same problem happens, What will you check next?
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