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Radiator in Attic Not Getting Hot

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Haim1824
Haim1824 Member Posts: 2
in Radiant Heating
Hello. I am seeking some communal guidance from the gurus on this forum related to one of my third floor radiators which is not getting hot. I have two radiators in my third floor attic (on opposite sides of the house). One is getting hot, the other is not. The system is made by Weil-McLain and I had a heater technician come out. He bled the non-working radiator and installed a new higher flow Taco pump as he hypothesized that the old pump was not strong enough to reach the third floor. However, the pump didn’t seem to do the trick. The system when warm is at 30 psi. While the system was on, I bled the non-working radiator but no air came out, only water. I bled about a gallon of water out of the non-working radiator and it was only after a gallon or so that the water temp from the bleeder changed from cold to luke warm (I then added a gallon back into the system via the feeder). There is a Danfoss RA-2000 thermostat installed on this radiator (as well as on installed on the other one in the attic). I am assuming the issue isn’t with the Danfoss, as I can hear it click when I turn the thermostat and I am getting water from the bleed valve (indicating that at least some water is flowing through the system. Any suggestions/thoughts would be much appreciated.

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  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    If truly 30 PSI when warm, your pressure relief valve should be starting to open or drip.....assuming it is a standard 30 PSI valve.

    As far as the TRV being open, maybe, maybe not.
    You would get water pressure on both sides of the rad, just perhaps not flow thru it.

    Maybe remove the control element of the TRV. I believe those will go to full open without the tstat part.

    The pump does not push the water to the 3rd floor, it circulates the water in a closed system like a Ferris Wheel.
    The pressure to get it up there is your pressure reducing valve, usually set at 12-15 PSI. This coming from your city water connection. And maintained by your expansion tank when heated water expands.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,852
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    I just had a thought. (rare occurrence according to my son) How are the fuel lines connected? The recommended way is flare fittings and sometimes the flaring process may not go well for some. Compression fittings are known for leaking.

    As my eyesight got worse, I have used my phone's camera to take a picture of the tube I just flared to inspect the quality of the flare. I could blow up the image and see any defects and be able to determine if there would a leak. If it was not perfect, I would cut it off and ream the inner diameter and then polish off the edge square with a file and ream again before applying the flaring tool. Sometimes copper tubing can be challenging.
    Never Use The Parts Cannon.jpg

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    Mr. Ed......I think you are on the wrong page......
    you mentioned eyesight......I understand completely!
  • Haim1824
    Haim1824 Member Posts: 2
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    I followed JUGHNE's advice and removed the top of the TRV from the radiator that is not working. The pin was depressed and I pulled it up gently with a pair of pliers. I also tapped the side of the valve gently with a pair of pliers. The radiator is still not getting hot. I tried balancing the radiators on the floor beneath, but this didnt seem to help. A suspect that perhaps the TRV valve is not opening when I pull up the pin - does this make sense? If not - any other suggestions? I also confirmed that PSI is ~30 when hot and the relief valve is a 30psi valve. However the PSI of the system must be just below 30 as the relief valve has shown no evidence of dripping.

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