Hago eco valve

426hemi

Has anyone tried these? Looks like it would work better than a delayed oil valve with a lot less to go wrong and not require a new primary on an older burner. Opinions? 

BDR529

Interesting, spring loaded mini check. Remove sintered filter on back of nozzle and install. Only use with steel nozzles and different opening pressures.

I do see how it could help with larger firing rates.
-Cold oil expansion
-Pesky air issue
-lazy valve

However, not a delay valve.

426hemi

No but should get some of the benefits (cleaner starts and stops less fouling of retention head) of a delayed oil valve for people who don’t want to spend the money to have one installed 

BDR529

If they got fouled retention heads is most likely a fuel heavy on bio issue.

Need 3.00 GPH min for eco to make sense. I figure your talking smaller firing rates.
If so, go the way of a new Beckett chassis and reuse the air tube. Otherwise just hubcaps on a tractor.

STEVEusaPA

I wouldn't bother. First of all if you didn't know it was in there, might frustrate you a little on troubleshooting. And someone else might just take it off because they think it's a throw away.
Delayed oil valve has been out over 50 years.
Shame on anyone not using pre/post purge.

426hemi

Id like to see a burner without a delayed oil valve  that doesn’t have a dirty head after 6 months service your idea of fouled and mine are probably different I am talking about a thin coating of carbon on the bottom 1/4 of the head not plugging of the turbulator slots or anything that doesn’t cleanup with some carb spray and a soft brush. unfortunately all fuel here has bio in it. Thanks for the info I was talking about under 3gph rate I have no experience with the eco valve I thought I might help on all firing rates by shutting off oil flow and perventing oil from dipping on the hot head when the burner shuts down. Some people don’t want to pay to put a delayed oil valve in. Looks  like a good idea on paper.

426hemi

I know there not commonly used. Steve your 100% correct but some customers are really cheap! I am always interested in new products if they work and don’t cause issues. I was more concerned about the nozzle plugging because the check valve replaces the nozzle filter, I was only asking because I have never used one and didn’t know if anyone had luck or issues with them.

STEVEusaPA

Double filtration and treating the tank is always the better way to go.
Think of this way, whatever crap is hitting the back of that nozzle already went thru a filter (or 2), and the pump strainer. Now your banking on that to keep the nozzle from plugging.
Some of the end cone fouling can be directly contributed to lack of pre/post purge (poor pump cut-off) and cold oil.
I know all about cheap customers. Luckily I have the flexibility to work with them, plus I sell them oil.
So if I'm replacing a pump, I'm upgrading them to pre/post purge. I try to explain the benefits and how it will save them money. Even if I have to throw in an upgraded primary at cost.

I usually don't early adopt anything until it's proven, either by time or sticking it on my own burners-at home and shop. Imagine in the fall, putting a couple hundred of them on during annual p/m's, then having trouble in the dead of winter.
I feel like if I put one on ever burner, I wouldn't know if they worked better than the others, I'd only know when they don't work.
I do believe they would be helpful on large commercial/industrial. There's a lot more at stake. @EBEBRATT-Ed may have some experience with them.