Weil McLain 68 Boiler (we have two of them!)

gretbond

I'm going to put my questions that I also put at the bottom up here too so you have when you read background info below:
-Are the "cut in" boxes set to right amount? (I didn't open it up to see what the cut out is set at) (see pics)
-what do you think is a good psi for my system to be running at (see pics for what it is right now at)???
-Should BOTH boilers be running at the same time every time the heat goes on???
-Taking into consideration the size of house, age of boiler(s) could any of the questions above be why one entire area of our house barely gets any heat?

Hi so we live in an old 8000 sq foot house there are 2 of these boilers. I'll refer to them as Boiler #1 and Boiler #2. When we first moved in we were told that boiler #2 only went on when it was really cold (I never saw it go on). About 4 years ago we started having a new oil company service them and since then the boiler that initially never turned on (boiler #2) is now the only one that seems to be turning on and Boiler #1 which had been the only one I had seen go on is no longer ever going on?) . The first 5 years we had a different oil company and servicer and I used to pay more attention to the boilers. I haven't really since new people started servicing. Anyway there is one part of the house that each year has progressively gotten colder since they started servicing. So yesterday I went down and saw that the red light was illuminated on boiler #1 (I'm thinking they've completely bypassed it now) but didn't think of that before I hit the reset button, it started up but NOT in a good way, sounds I'd never heard started coming from it and boiler #2 came on at the same time (which I'd never seen happen) Could be that they haven't bypassed it and there is something wrong with it thus the system tripped it to light up? I have them coming to look at and I will ask them.
My main question is about my pressure. I went to bleed the radiators in the cold area some air did come out of a few of them but not much on the last one (there are 5 in that area) I stupidly turned the on/off wheel handle thing to make sure radiator was all the way open (yup I know clockwise means open) anyway I did it too roughly and the thing started spurting water, plumber came and fixed radiator. Later I went down to look at the PSI on the boiler cause I know the plumber had looked at it before he left but I was gone and I don't know what he did) I saw that the water feeder handles were turned horizontal to the pipe and I am almost positive before current service company started servicing those used to always be "on" turned horizontal with the pipe. but I'm not positive. So I called the service company they told me no they should be in the "off" position but that I should probably feed some new water into system because of leak, so I turned those handles on and used the brass release thing to feed some water in to increase the system PSI from 14 to 18 psi. Now just went down and psi is at almost 20 and I also just watched the video on here about the differential wheel cut in cut out thing. So to make a long story even longer my question is are mine set properly (see pics) AND what do you think is a good psi for my system to be running at (see pics for what it is right now at)??? Should BOTH boilers be running at the same time every time the heat goes on??? Taking into consideration the size of house, age of boiler(s) could any of the questions above be why one entire area of our house barely gets any heat? I can take more pics if you need me to:

STEVEusaPA

Would need to see more pictures, mostly back far enough to see both boilers and how they are piped together.
But it sounds like you answered your own question. It used to work the way it was supposed, and now it doesn't.
Ideally you should only need both boilers when its coldest, if they are hooked together feeding the entire piping system. If they are doing 2 different section of piping that's a whole different story.
Depending on how it's controlled, if they are piped together, best would be a lead-lag system that rotates boiler designation.

It's hard to answer questions about pressure without knowing more about the system, pictures, and the height from the boiler gauge to the top of the highest radiation.

BTW, NEVER push the reset button. The burner went off because it detected an unsafe condition. Pushing the button could make it worse, and could be very dangerous.

EdTheHeaterMan

RESET ONLY ONCE
it says it on the control with the reset button

This does not mean once an hour or once a day or once in a while. ONLY ONCE!

Call your oil burner service provider for what's needed to get your system operational.

The Limit Control set at 215°F might be a little high for my liking. the operating control should be set near 180°F or maybe a little higher, but not over 200° That control might be a secondary high limit (set 10° to 20° higher than the operating limit). The operating limit is most likely the control box just below the gauge(s) that you pictured.

How one control system knows that the other boiler control system is not providing enough heat can be varied and very simple or very complex. It sounds like yours is simple. Pictures farther back will help