REMOVE STRIPPED PLUG BLACK PIPE

hankwylerjr

I know this subject has been brought up before and I've read some of the possibilities to remove. Question is are there any other ways to get this out? I tried heat, PB, just bought 6 point sockets set that don't work either, thinking that there is enough meat where if I get my Sawzall with carbide blade I can cut off the plug itself maybe that will reveal a hole where I can get my jigsaw to cut it out in pie shapes knock rest out with cold chisel any help appreciated trying to get er done before its really cold but

hankwylerjr

kevinj_4

You need more heat, like cherry red heat.

Or drill & cut it out.

JUGHNE

Someone here said they use a hole saw, smaller than OD of plug, so you do not hit threads.
If you went that route, I would cut the stub off of the top and drill a 1/4 hole in the exact center to guide the hole saw.
Hammer and center punch recommended.

Then cut the pie with sawsall .

hankwylerjr

That's an option let me see what hole saw I'll need I'm going to use every suggestion I get from here until it's off

PC7060

Drill it and use a easy out. 

Start with 1/4” or smaller and work up to largest easy out hole size that you can fit without damaging threads. 

hankwylerjr

That's probably been on there since 1952 think it's melded together I'm skeptical of the easy outs to be honest since this is probably a 1 1/16  plug

Dave T_2

I like the hole saw idea. After you have a decent hole the pie cuts without hitting the threads, then a little chisel work to get everything out will work.

mattmia2

You could get a 4 point socket and a manual impact driver that you hit with a hammer.

hankwylerjr

It's stripped not sure that will work 

mattmia2

I think there is enough there for a 4 point to grab it. the good thing about a manual impact driver is the hammer forces it in to the fastener so it doesn't cam out

EBEBRATT-Ed

Could be a solid plug, could be a cored plug.

I would cut it off flush with an angle grinder with a cutting wheel (best) or a sawzall. That might give you a hole if it is a cored plug.

either way drill a bunch of holes in it and start sawing

hankwylerjr

@mattmia2 not familiar with what your describing, impact driver? 

Zman

Heating the fitting around the plug did not work? Is there water in the pipe? That makes it impossible to heat. Have you tried soaking it with penetrating oil?
The suggestion of driving a smaller socket over it with a hammer and using an electric impact wrench is a good one.
If you can't heat it and force it out, it must be demo time.

This is a powerful one. https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/impact-drivers-and-wrenches/20v-max-xr-high-torque-12-in-impact-wrench-with-detent-pin-anvil-tool-only/dcf899b

mattmia2

This tool. There are cheaper knockoffs too:
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/multi-bit-nut-drivers/impact-driver-screwdriver-reversible-6-piece

hcpatel78

Heat take cares of lots of frozen fastener anywhere....car, plumbing, trucks...

hankwylerjr

I have heated it to red, I have used PB blaster, wrenches with breaker bars until it stripped. I imagine I can bang a socket on use impact driver or start drilling have to make up my mind real soon 

Zman

Have you tried talking to it. It is important that is knows who is in charge and that removal is immanent.

Alan Welch

Have you tried tightening it to break it free?

hankwylerjr

I cursed at it maybe that's why it won't budge. I'll talk to it in the morning but yes I tighten it as well it must be fused together very soft metal it seems 

kevinj_4

hankwylerjr said:

I have heated it to red, I have used PB blaster, wrenches with breaker bars until it stripped. I imagine I can bang a socket on use impact driver or start drilling have to make up my mind real soon 

You need to heat the fitting, not the plug.

The insulation color says it was not hot enough.

Oh, don't mess with the easy out or it will just be broken off in the plug.

retiredguy

To @hankwylerjr, maybe you didn't use the correct words to scare it out. I could give you a few that have worked in the past. On a more serious note, here is what I would do (3 ideas depending on what you want to accomplish).

#1 get a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe to see if it will turn out after the fitting has been heated.

#2 cut the top off the plug. Cut a hole in the plug with a hole saw and then use a hand held hack saw blade to cut out the "pie". Using a jig saw or reciprocating saw could very quickly ruin the fitting.

#3 remove the insulation from the connecting piping and cut out the "T". thread the cut piece and repair the cut using a union and what ever fittings are necessary. You could also remove the cut pipe back to the next fitting and finish the repair.

SlamDunk

I have hammered 12 point sockets on to lug nuts and used a breaker bar with an additional cheater with good luck.

WMno57

Was that originally a square with 4 flats or a hex with 6 flats? Most plugs are a square with 4. This requires a 4 or 8 point socket. A good fitting 12 point socket might have been OK when it was new. The six point socket was worse than a 4, 8, or 12.

Don't have a 4 or 8 point socket? Try this:

Get a big Allen wrench or piece of hex stock. I'm guessing the top of that plug was a 1/2 inch square. Stick the Allen wrench or hex stock in the 6 or 12 point end of a 1/2 inch drive socket. Place the 1/2 inch square drive end of the socket on the plug.

To get the 1/2 inch square drive to fit over the "Deformities of Hackery" (I should trademark that) on the plug, you may need to pretty it up with a file.

If you used an Allen wrench, cut off the other end with a grinder. Now place another 6 or 12 point socket on the other end of the hex.

STOP.

Get the torch, liquid wrench and a hammer. As was said by @kevinj_4, heat the fitting not the plug. Smack, smack, smack the face of the plug with the hammer. You are crushing the corrosion between the threads.

Now try to turn it out. As was said by @Alan Welch, you want to turn it in both directions. It will loosen counter clockwise, but again the idea here is to first crush the corrosion between the threads. A breaker bar is better than a ratchet because you can wiggle it in both directions. An air, corded or cordless impact wrench would be better yet, again both loosen and tighten, but a breaker bar might do the trick.

mattmia2

The heat, if heated hot enough, dehydrates the oxide and turns it in to a softer powder.

You could use an allen socket and regular socket put together to get the 1/2" square drive.

hot_rod

Why do you want it out?
If it is a solid plug, grind it smooth.
Or if you want a vent, tap a 1/8 or 1/4 hole in it, even if it is hollow there would be enough metal to tap.
Getting it out will be easier if it is hollow, cut some grooves and collapse it.
Probably the holesaw if it is a solid plug. Have a tap ready to clean up any damage.
If you do damage the threads put the new fitting in with Loctite, that will glue it in..

hankwylerjr

@hot_rod I want this plug out to install another length of pipe going to new rad. I bought bits and blades today I'm aiming to do it next couple of days, I think it's hollow I'll drill several holes with carbide but after I Sawzall off the tip of mangled plug, I have a set of cold chisels and punches 

hankwylerjr

@mattmia2 no idea how to do what your saying I tried to buy a impact socket today to pound on just going to drill and cut

PC7060

What size of pipe is this?  Since your goal is to pipe off the tee; worst case you can cut out a section of the pipe and use a mega press Tee fitting. 

The full size Ridgid pro press tool can do some very large pipes. Supply House has fittings up to 4”

https://www.supplyhouse.com/MegaPress-Tees-P-x-P-x-F-21271000

hankwylerjr

@mattmia2 no idea how to do what your saying I tried to buy a impact socket today to pound on just going to drill and cut

hankwylerjr

@PC7060 the main here is 2 1/2 I think but I'll check never heard of those will they work for a one pipe steam system? Black pipe here 

hankwylerjr

@PC7060 looks like it's a 2 and goes to my 1 1/4 off the tee? 

hankwylerjr

@PC7060 unless I can rent one somewhere that's cost prohibited for me they are like 2k up to 5k, 

JUGHNE

If you want to go the hole saw route, I would only drill the center pilot hole and then go with the hole saw. After getting the hole saw established fairly deep on an initial cut, then maybe some drill action on the circle you established.
You do not want the hole saw jumping around on the plug.

PC7060

hankwylerjr said:

@PC7060 unless I can rent one somewhere that's cost prohibited for me they are like 2k up to 5k, 

@hankwylerjr - Good question on use Mega press for steam applications. Pull the Viega mega press data sheets to see it they are rated for low pressure steam 

Regarding renting the tool,I’d rent the pro not the tool. I found many that will charge their standard billing rate per hour for a quick job like that. 

Pro press tools are pretty much the standard for the plumbing and heating industry. Figure out what size pipe you have (looks like 1-1/2” from the picture), order the part you need from supplyhouse.com and then call around to a few plumbers to find out if they have a megapress head for that size pipe. 

I’d have the pipe cut and prepped with the tee in place ready and waiting for them. But you could let them do the cutting, cleanup and fit if you feel more comfortable with that option.

hankwylerjr

The pro not the tool? You lost me ill look at data sheet but can't imagine why low pressure steam pipes would not work 

WMno57

hankwylerjr said:

The pro not the tool? You lost me

Its like renting a crane. The operator is included. No extra charge.

The other advantage of renting a pro is they can do what you and I can do in one tenth the time. They arrive to the job site in their own mini mobile fully stocked hardware store. So, no multiple parts runs during the project.

You have mentioned carbide tools. Iron pipe and fittings are much softer than grade 5 and 8 bolts. They cut like butter, as you found on the head of that pipe plug.

You also mentioned cutting pie shapes with a jig saw. When you get close to the threads, switch to a jab saw with a hacksaw blade. You can make one with a bare blade and duct tape. Much less chance of damaging the threads in the fittings.

You don't have to cut all the way to the fitting threads. A hammer and chisel will get the pie pieces out, even if they are still held together at the crust.

I still think that plug could be turned out.

Good Luck.

Dave T_2

lol, hard to believe this plug is still not out!

hankwylerjr

@daveT2 if I wasn't working 50 hours per week it would be already 

ethicalpaul

Looks like 1-1/2 to a 1-1/4 riser. The dimension is the inside diameter so a 1-1/2 pipe is almost 2" outside diameter.

Big Ed_4

I would cut it flush with the tee and cut pie shape . Most plugs are concave , you may not need to drill a pilot hole .No need to cut into the threads , just cut near and use a small chisel to knock out sections.