Limit switch-Can't find it if I have one

EBEBRATT-Ed

I have seen 30 gph spark ignited oil burner with the OLD Honeywell protectostat mounted on the boiler front plate with a 90 second trial for ignition and perfectly legal when it was installed.

Same burner moved a huge cinder block boiler room wall when ignition was delayed.

As far as the constant, intermittant, interupted thing some of the old burners without flame retention wouldn't stay running unless the ignition was on all the time

rgar98

@EdTheHeaterMan
Setting the TT to [No] did the trick . It starts and stops. Whew!
Now I have to figure out why the CAD Ohms are around 1200. The air adjustment is maxed out. What else can I check?
Thanks again for all your help. My wife thanks you too; she doesn't have to hear me complaining about the furnace wiring.
The CAD cell is new and I've checked the connections 3 or 4 times already.
And, Merry Christmas!

rgar98

Can someone please explain the TT setting [jumpered or not] on my oil burner hot air system. My newly-wired primary (7284) works now b/c the TT setting is [NO]. But why?
Thanks.

EdTheHeaterMan

Steamhead said: Those old stack-mounted primaries should be banned. Their trial for ignition ranges from 70 to 90 seconds, which is way too long for a safe lockout if the oil flame doesn't ignite. Same goes for the R8184 and similar controls. 45 seconds is better than 70-90 seconds, but not by much. Modern primaries have 15-second trial for ignition periods. If the burner doesn't light immediately, something is wrong, and it should shut down quickly. 

At who’s expense?   And who will be the enforcement officer?  The last burner service technician?  Will he loose his license to practice oil burner repair?

Automobiles that can go over 25MPH should be banned.   They Injure and kill more people than stack relays!

I'm not saying that @Steamhead is wrong about the 90 seconds v. 15 seconds.   He has a good point.  But there ought to be a law that prohibits people from making blanket opinion statements on public forums like this.  Or maybe ban everyone who does not operate their relief valve at least once a year from having access to hot water.   

 “Come on man”
If Kentucky can pass a law forbidding us from putting ice cream on a slice of cherry pie, then we should make it a crime to push a reset button more than once...   don’t you think?

And don’t get me started on the mattress tags that say “DO NOT REMOVE UNDER PENALTY OF LAW”.  Have you ever been arrested by the mattress police?   I have never even received a warning 

Merry Christmas  
Ed

EdTheHeaterMan

rgar98 said:

Can someone please explain the TT setting [jumpered or not] on my oil burner hot air system. My newly-wired primary (7284) works now b/c the TT setting is [NO]. But why? Thanks.

That electronic primary control can replace many other analog primary controls.   You may find an old oil fired water heater with a R4182 primary control that is not equipped with T T terminals.  There is no 24 v room thermostat on a water heater.  BUT  it still needs a primary safety control that will stop the burner if there is no flame.   

So if you replace a R4184 primary control with a R8184 you would need to place a jumper wire connection on T to T in order to have the burner operate when the water heater thermostat sent power to the black 120v wire on the primary. Now the only way to turn the burner on and off is by the 120v temperature control on the water heater.  

Does this make sense rgar98?

Now that you have the basic idea... the next logical step is to make the jumper from T to T on the electronic primary an option you can select in the setup menu.   If you are connecting wires to T and T then you don’t need a jumper.  Select NO

If the old analog primary has a jumper on TT or it is a L4184 with no low voltage option, then select YES for the jumper option.  

I guess what I’m saying is the your heater is not the only oil burning heater that control can be used for 

Merry Christmas 
Ed

SuperTech

@EBEBRATT-Ed thank you for confirming that the reasons for making intermittent ignition controls.  I always suspected that it was just cheaper to manufacture. I haven't had to work on any of the old burners without flame retention heads, it's good to know that some required constant spark.

I definitely agree that all stack controls need to go. I try to get rid of them and the R8184 controls whenever I see them.  No need for such a long trial for ignition and the fact that they can be continuously reset without a hard lockout makes them dangerous for residential use.