What is this bib valve for? Bleeding?

brogama

I got a new pump installed over the weekend and the system had to be drained. Initially, post repair I had weak heat in my loops. (One zone with 4 loops). Per an earlier post - it was suggested to do a purge. I managed to do that myself (as I wait for the tech to come back). I have great heat now, but I most definitely have some air in the system as I can hear water sloshing through the pipes. Is there anything else - outside of another purge?. I do not have bleeder valves on my baseboards or an automatic vent anywhere I can find. I’m not exactly sure what the bib is near the loop valves.  Any ideas?

hot_rod

there would need to be a shutoff down lower as you suggest. Then the bib could be used to purge each zone. One at a time by turning off the wheel handle valves.
Ideally there would be a air purger, at least an auto vent on the system, maybe in the boiler, to finish removing the air you hear.

HomerJSmith

Sloshing water? I hate when that happens.

Did you replace the old pump with the same pump, which didn't make noise, previously? Is it possible what you are hearing is velocity noise? Just asking.

Normally a new fill has several gallons of entrained air and you have to have an air removal device on your boiler to get it out of the sys. It takes time. Weak heat indicate there is some flow.

How did you purge it, a garden hose? Were you able to isolate each zone as you purged, moving maximum flow thru each zone? Too, many questions.

That valve appears to be a boiler cold water shut-off valve. A picture of your sys showing everything would be more definitive, but make it a smaller file. It took me forever to load.

"...One zone with 4 loops..." I don't quite understand. OK, I re-read your post. You have 4 baseboard zones which work singly or in tandem. If you have zone valves on each circuit, then you have 4 thermostats which control each zone. That would be singly. If you only have one thermostat controlling all 4 zones then that would be in tandem.

If in tandem, you have a problem unless you can isolate each zone separately. Purging all 4 zones at once, much of the flow will go thru the shortest zones. I would suggest in that case to purge for a longer time.

brogama

Ideally. Given, that I don't see that obvious auto vent - if it is in the boiler...how long would it take to rectify? I know the pump had been replaced in the past, so it must have been done somehow.

hot_rod

The bulk of the air would be purged with a hose as you mentioned. assuming there are good purge valve locations. An air purger or vent grabs air that will come out of solution when the water is heated.
Air will go back into solution when the boiler cools, so it never leaves unless you have a good working auto vent eliminating it.
Or continue to try and bleed at fittings at each baseboard, that is messy and takes time.

brogama

So
Sorry about the file size. I don’t have an option to reduce it as I’m using a mobile device. Here is my system. 

The pervious pump was a Taco 007 and now I have a Grundfos- 3 speed, it’s on the middle speed. 

brogama

Actually, heat is great...just sounds like it's rain from the water moving 'noise'.

@HomerJSmith I hooked a hose to the drain of the boiler and used the handle on the PRV to force water in the system. I did do one loop at a time. I understand that new air was introduced as a result. I have really good heat, just have that sloshing, rushing and sometimes clinky clank noise. I only have one thermostat control (zone) and those loops (sub zone) go to different areas of the home.
That would be tandem as you say. You would suggest a longer purge...?

@hot_rod I would totally drain at the baseboards if they had bleeder valves. They don't and that makes me sad.

HomerJSmith

Well, your second photo finally loaded. No zone valves, so, you have one thermostat connected to the aquastat on your boiler that runs everything.

You can turn off the valves on all the other non offending zones and purge the offending zones for a longer time. Run the offending zone with the other zones shut off with the pump on speed HI for a day. That might help. I assume that the new pump is a Grundfos UPS 15-58. Speed Low most closely matches a Taco 007 flow. The 007 has a flatter pump curve and the 15-58 a steeper curve. Running the new pump on Med may increase velocity noise.

Did the installer leave the check valve in the volute of the new pump?


Is the offending circuit a shorter or longer circuit in comparison to each other?

I don't know how the expansion tank is connected to your sys, per your drawing. It should be connected to the inlet of the pump.

I don't see any air removal device in your pic unless that is an air scoop hiding on the zone supply pipe next to the draft hood.

No, that isn't a point to bleed the sys.

brogama

@HomerJSmith I loaded a sketch. Sorry again for the file size. My expansion tank looks like a torpedo in between the joists. It's is just a plain steel tank. I will try locating the offending zone and running the system again on HIGH for a day and reduce to Low.

I have not located anything that would look like an air scoop and the tech really just unbolted the Taco and bolted in the Grundofus. No extra components were added to the system.

I have all circuits running currently, (this is a single story house) if you stand in the living room (above boiler) you can hear it and downstairs it sounds like it's everywhere, I will have to investigate more thoroughly to be sure. However, it really became noticeable when I brought the shortest circuit on line. (after the purge I started at the one farthest away in the return line check sketch out).

HomerJSmith

A pic of the plain old steel tank would be interesting. If it is only a plain old steel tank, times change, I would consider upgrading if it were my sys. We have better products with better performance, today.

brogama

@HomerJSmith the whole system is a classic. I would consider upgrading the system if I had long term plans for the place.