Need Help finding Peerless Boiler Part
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Are you talking about this...
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Is that this? I'm sorry I'm really bad at this. This is a photo of it in the unitSTEVEusaPA said:Are you talking about this...
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The item you circled is a 115V to 24V step-down transformer. This is a part of a 3 zone relay control. Three thermostats are attached to the control and there are three circulators connected to the corresponding circulators. This is not a control that comes with the boiler. It is an add on not supplied by the boiler company.
This might be a replacement that will work https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-90-T40F1-Transformer-40VA-60-Hz-120V-Primary-24V-Secondary-Foot-Mount
there are hundreds of others available. are you looking at soldering the wires to the control board or using wire nuts to connect the existing wires that are still on the control (Cut from the old transformer)?
The control manufacturer does not consider that part as a replaceable part. if that part is in fact the problem the entire control should be replaced. That said, it will be difficult to find an exact replacement part that will fit inside the control and fit the space allotted on the circuit board.
you may wish to consider this control or another like it.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-SR503-4-3-Zone-Switching-Relay
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Thank you for the info, it's much appreciated. I would never have know that it was an after market part.EdTheHeaterMan said:The item you circled is a 115V to 24V step-down transformer. This is a part of a 3 zone relay control. Three thermostats are attached to the control and there are three circulators connected to the corresponding circulators. This is not a control that comes with the boiler. It is an add on not supplied by the boiler company.
This might be a replacement that will work https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-90-T40F1-Transformer-40VA-60-Hz-120V-Primary-24V-Secondary-Foot-Mount
there are hundreds of others available. are you looking at soldering the wires to the control board or using wire nuts to connect the existing wires that are still on the control (Cut from the old transformer)?
The control manufacturer does not consider that part as a replaceable part. if that part is in fact the problem the entire control should be replaced. That said, it will be difficult to find an exact replacement part that will fit inside the control and fit the space allotted on the circuit board.
you may wish to consider this control or another like it.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-SR503-4-3-Zone-Switching-Relay
When I unscrewed the unit, I didn't see any wires. Just how it was held in. I guess I should just replace the whole control right? I know that this is the issue as the transformer blew. That's what stopped my unit from working.
Would a 4 zone control work as well If I just didn't hook up the 4th zone? The 4 zone seem to be much cheaper, or should I just stick with the 3 zone?0 -
4 zone is fine.
The current models have all the basic functions you need.
The current models also may have additional functions you don't need. Just disregard them.
The terminals may also have slightly different designations, but they are pretty intuitive.
Once you get the new 4 zone control, post any questions you have on this thread to keep it in context.
If the new control fails upon commissioning, there is a dead short on your existing control (low voltage) wiring. The new controls are equipped with a fuse to protect the transformer. If the fuse fails you will need to find the shorted wire and make the necessary repairs. You can also check to see if any wires are damaged while you are changing out the control.
Have any other repairs been completed between the last time the system operated and the time of the failure? Including other than heat-related repairs. Like driving a nail into a hidden wire, while installing a shelf, or replacing a pipe with a torch, near a wire...Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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No work has been done, I turn the unit off in the summer. I turned it on two days ago for the first time, everything worked fine. Then yesterday the transformer blew. I did a quick scan of the wires, they looked ok to me.EdTheHeaterMan said:4 zone is fine.
The current models have all the basic functions you need.
The current models also may have additional functions you don't need. Just disregard them.
The terminals may also have slightly different designations, but they are pretty intuitive.
Once you get the new 4 zone control, post any questions you have on this thread to keep it in context.
If the new control fails upon commissioning, there is a dead short on your existing control (low voltage) wiring. The new controls are equipped with a fuse to protect the transformer. If the fuse fails you will need to find the shorted wire and make the necessary repairs. You can also check to see if any wires are damaged while you are changing out the control.
Have any other repairs been completed between the last time the system operated and the time of the failure? Including other than heat-related repairs. Like driving a nail into a hidden wire, while installing a shelf, or replacing a pipe with a torch, near a wire...
I will definitely be keeping this thread updated.
Are either of these ok to order?
https://www.amazon.com/Taco-SR503-Switching-3-Zones-Priority/dp/B001P7CL3Q/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3PH6OG0KKPGIA&dchild=1&keywords=3+zone+switching+relay&qid=1604335582&sprefix=3+zone+swit,aps,143&sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008G8S8A2?pf_rd_r=22CW558J9N9K4SMCH3CN&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee0 -
both will work is incorrect. ZVC will not work SR will work
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Alright guys, I ordered and received now I need some help. I noticed that some of the lettering is slightly different. On my old unit it says H1 N1 at the bottom the Top goes by T's like T1. I'm assuming The ones that end in 1 are for zone 1. But at the top for me on the new one I have R W C. What is the conversion? Also I have two wires on the new unit, which I'm assuming supply power a black and a white, where would these go to? I'm attaching photos of what I am referring
to. Thank you guys so much for your help.0 -
I don't think that your new control is correct. Your old control seems to control circulators while your new control seems to control zone valves.
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You need to return that control and order the SR503. or SR504
ZVC controls are for zone valves SR controls are for circulators
Sorry for the misdirect. I did not look at the second item close enough to see the difference. My bad!Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Yikes lol, New one on it's way0
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Alright guys, new unit just arrived lol. Still need help, It's better but I still need help. I can figure out how T1 goes to Zone 1 on the top and how H1 goes to the Zone 1 on the bottom. But, I'm not sure where these wires that I circled in red go.
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I had a feeling this would happen. I'm not sure how that section of wires is configured. What I do recognize is the N terminal will be connected to N on the bottom row of the Taco all the way to the right (INPUT) and the H from the old control on the H on the Taco. That should be the wire that powers the control, usually a white and black wire that is coming from the wire that feeds the heating system with power. This is usually attached to a box or wire that is the source of the power with a switch. The white wire is common or Neutral (N) and the black wire is the Hot (H) and is connected to the switch.
Now you have at least one last wire. I don't know where that goes. It may feed the burner circuit, if that is the case, then you need to determine if there is low voltage terminals on primary control (the one with the reset button). If yes this is easy. If no, then we need to look at the ZC and ZR terminals on the other end of the Taco control.
So let me know where that the other wire in the circled portion of the control actually comes from and goes to.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Follow up, if the unknown wire I mentioned goes to a combination aquastat, relay on the boiler I would like to see how it is wired. Picture up close to see the wires and terminals and also a few feet away to see where each set of wires go. to the burner, circulator, any other controls like auxiliary aquastat, low water cut off, primary safety relay, and the like.
If the wire goes to a limit switch with only 2 or 3 wire connections then all I need is a pic from a few feet away.
If I had to make a guess, the wire on A in the old control needs to go to ZR on the new control with the jumper removed.
But If I were McGuyver, on Mission Impossible and only had 8 seconds to cut the blue wire on the time bomb, we'd all be dead by now.
I have "let the smoke out" of my fair share of controls over the years. Not so much recentlyEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I haven't tackled it yet, but this is what the last wire traces to. Does this help?EdTheHeaterMan said:Follow up, if the unknown wire I mentioned goes to a combination aquastat, relay on the boiler I would like to see how it is wired. Picture up close to see the wires and terminals and also a few feet away to see where each set of wires go. to the burner, circulator, any other controls like auxiliary aquastat, low water cut off, primary safety relay, and the like.
If the wire goes to a limit switch with only 2 or 3 wire connections then all I need is a pic from a few feet away.
If I had to make a guess, the wire on A in the old control needs to go to ZR on the new control with the jumper removed.
But If I were McGuyver, on Mission Impossible and only had 8 seconds to cut the blue wire on the time bomb, we'd all be dead by now.
I have "let the smoke out" of my fair share of controls over the years. Not so much recently
Also Thank you for all your help so far.
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open the box with the gray cover that is attached to the black circle and take a picture of the wires inside the box. The oil burner does not have a low voltage primary control. You have a Riello oil burner. Not a standard primary control on that burner. so you don't have 24 volt control to do the standard wiring configuration.
I need to see all the wire terminal screws in the gray box.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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EdTheHeaterMan said:
open the box with the gray cover that is attached to the black circle and take a picture of the wires inside the box. The oil burner does not have a low voltage primary control. You have a Riello oil burner. Not a standard primary control on that burner. so you don't have 24 volt control to do the standard wiring configuration.
I need to see all the wire terminal screws in the gray box.
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Does that help lol0
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huh, a Riello, that's unexpected.
I gotta ask...If you go down in the basement at night, then shut the lights off. Can you see the front door to the boiler glow during a heat call?0 -
What do you mean "Unexpected" LOL. We just need to know where the one wire goes hahaBDR529 said:huh, a Riello, that's unexpected.
I gotta ask...If you go down in the basement at night, then shut the lights off. Can you see the front door to the boiler glow during a heat call?0 -
guy's I'm confused, why is this such a big deal? Theres only so many places this 1 wire can go
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Your Riello is just Hubcaps on a tractor.
Whoever put the relay in that location shoud be flogged with that burnt wiring.
I see nothing but a fire hazzard. Get a pro in there you need some help.0 -
None of the wiring is burnt. It's very dirty but not burnt.BDR529 said:Your Riello is just Hubcaps on a tractor.
Whoever put the relay in that location shoud be flogged with that burnt wiring.
I see nothing but a fire hazzard. Get a pro in there you need some help.
Where does the last wire go?0 -
#1. Riello was an option on that boiler when newBDR529 said:Your Riello is just Hubcaps on a tractor.
Whoever put the relay in that location shoud (Correct spelling SHOULD) be flogged with that burnt wiring.
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#2. that is the factory location for the control. just poor workmanship when the control was replaced (or repaired)
BIG RED FLAG... the wires on the T T inside the boiler control are connected to 24V low voltage terminals. those wires get connected to END SWITCH X X on the Taco. that should do it for you. they can be the same wire or they can be thermostat wire whatever it is easier.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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A closer look at the old control... I did not see the wire connected to R . the wires connected to A and R on the old control go to X and X isolated switch on the TACO. That is a 24-volt low voltage circuit and is usually connected with a smaller thermostat wire.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Yes, an old Mectron.
Came like that from the factree or not he SHOULD still be flogged.
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@Shuga
Did you see my post? Sorry I was too long getting back, I was outta' town.
A and R from old control is that same as X and X at the Isolated end switch on the TACOEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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@Shuga, Were you able to resolve your wiring situation?
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I just finished the install, haven't had time the last few days until today. I followed step by step what you said. It works perfectly. Unit came right on after it was all wired up. Thank you so much!EdTheHeaterMan said:@Shuga, Were you able to resolve your wiring situation?
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