If That Debris in the New Rad Gets Stuck In The System....

D107

I have an OCS Cast Ray rad being installed next week. When I got it home while rolling it upside down to move it--kind of heavy--I heard a rattling of some loose metal. One side had a circular piece near the input--probably from the threading machine; luckily it was right near the input hole and I just took it out. It was about 1.25" wide metal donut that when I put any stress on it broke in half. (See photo below.)

But on the other side near the top of the rad I've also heard the rattling. I tried to use a heavy magnet to lead it out but couldn't do it. Tried flushing. The installer will be power flushing after he installs cleaner in that zone. But my concern is if the piece is too big to pass into the 3/4" system piping through the 1.25" input/output that it will block up my entire zone --piped in series and I won't know where it's stuck and then we've got a big job! Note that this rad is 2nd to last in the zone before the final old cast iron rad then 3/4" return.

The dealer will stand by it and give me a replacement but it's frign heavy so I'd prefer not to have to do that. What would you do if this was in your home? Installer will be using Adey cleaner but not sure if that would dissolve something like this, assuming it's the same kind of piece in the photo below.

mattmia2

Might be able to hook it with a piece of wire and get it out. Probably was the back of the casting when the hole was cut to the finished size. I think that likely will just sit in the bottom unless you are moving way more water than is needed to move the heat at least for that particular radiator.

Tinman

Put hose fittings on each end of it and flush it out.

Apologies I didn't read the entire thread.

EdTheHeaterMan

Because of the weight of the product involved, you are hesitating to get a free replacement that will relieve your concern? Is that right?

Economically, what does that cost? A helper or two for a few hours? Call a moving and storage company for delivery help and pay the price. (they move heavy pianos from time to time). now you have no worries. Someone else will have to deal with the noise in the radiator.

OR

Save on that cost and possibly never have a problem.

OR

Deal with the problem you fear the most. How do I fix this now that it is connected and watered up? Now I need to drain the boiler to make the swap that I should have done a few weeks ago when it would have cost less. Will any boiler water spill on the floor covering in the finished building? No dought there will be winter white carper to cross with your rigging equipment, dolly wheels, manpower with dirty shoes, and the like.

I think you should go for it. Keep the rattler. Live dangerously.

D107

@EdTheHeaterMan very graphic choice, sir. Of course no harm in trying to fish it out with a wire first, then bring it back if that fails. Hiring movers would double the price, but that would be cheaper than having the installer have to disassemble and do the job over again.
@Steve Minnich wouldn't I put one hose fitting on one end only then flush?

Tinman

It's a habit for me to use two hoses if I'm flushing radiators for whatever reason. Like if I buy a used one I pressure test it at


30# by using a Caleffi 573009A on the inlet hose and then a short, second hose with a ball valve on the other side. When testing is done, I have a third hose connected to the other side of the ball valve and running to a 5 gallon bucket. This way I can see the debris that comes out of it and know whether it needs further flushing or not.

mattmia2

That Caleffi prv is the one I have, it is the only one I have used, but I really like that it automatically fast fills without having to lift a lever.

D107

@mattmia2 I was wondering what kind of wire you recommend to attempt to push the debris through. I have tried various thicknesses of plastic coated line, but what seems to work best is very thick uninsulated flat metal cable about 1/8" wide. don't know what you call that. but what I have is not long enough.

mattmia2

I was thinking around bare #12 steel or copper wire. maybe sort of shape the hook and wire up to it so it scrapes along the bottom and hooks anything it encounters if you twist the wire

D107

@mattmia2 If I'm understanding correctly, to 'hook' in something the wire would have to be pulling not pushing. My guess is the debris--which gives the sound almost like a set of car keys when I move the rad--is near one end of the rad top. So I've been trying to push that debris with a wire brought in from the far inlet so that it would push the debris far enough to then fall into the rad side then down to the other inlet.

If i tried to pull it, I'd have to approach from the other inlet and risk pushing the debris further away then hoping to hook it before I started pulling--if that makes sense. I assume the debris is little metal pieces. If they have lodged in one of the internal vertical chambers then perhaps not so easy to remove.

As you had said such debris is likely to eventually fall and remain at the rad bottom. Avg gpm is from 2-4gpm, occasionally higher ECM set at constant speed.