CRANE NAT GAS 4W3GA 80,000 BTU OUTPUT BOILER

REDD

Hello to all Hot Water experts out here. I have followed the WALL for over 10 years but never figured I would write or sign up...
We bought the house in 1991 and in 1992 had to replace the Gas Valve on this hot water boiler. Since then I have replaced all mechanical operating mechanisms myself. The most important being the water pressure regulator in 2013. I know this boiler is ancient, in fact I believe it is original to the house being 1964. All had been well and we operate a very efficient smallish 1960s tri-level home. This week I did a cleaning of the burners and heating chamber, but was able to capture pictures of the bottom side of the cast iron water jacket fins (pics) with a cellphone (A first). Years ago I did remove the top cover of the boiler but I need to be able to access the combustion section as well. I want to clean these fins. There are multiple layers of these angled fins and it is not a poke your rod through and resolve the issue type of cleaning. I am not even sure if I can reach these from the top. Any input is appreciated. I have no issue with removing the outer top again (4 screws) but I this will not give access to the combustion area. My memory is failing me on what I remember from years ago...

Redd

Steamhead

Wow. My only thought is compressed air. Wear a mask if you do it this way.

I'd bet the burners are out of adjustment, and that's causing the deposits. Where are you located?

REDD

Steamhead said:

Wow. My only thought is compressed air. Wear a mask if you do it this way.

I'd bet the burners are out of adjustment, and that's causing the deposits. Where are you located?

Thanks for the response. In cleaning this boiler up (Burner surface), I did look at the flame output. The discovery of the jacket condition surprised me this could happen to a Natural Gas unit. The flames looked high (Thursday) so I readjusted the pressure screw out. I suspect the valve could be on last legs. The laughable part is--the tech who replaced it in Feb 1992 charged us $99 total for valve; Thermocouple and labor. The valve itself now costs $300 and up. I like your idea of compressed air but I would have to have a short wand and a vac to suck out the dust before it gets to me. I really do not see any other option. Taking the top cover off is not likely going to help access. The flue stack still has good air movement as it gets hot right away. If anything, I might consider replacing this beast. Seeing as we are replacing the roof next year, the timing might be right. Hail damaged the roof here in Davenport IA last April.

Steamhead

@Dave in QCA , any help available?

mattmia2

sounds like someone that knows how to do combustion analysis needs to adjust that after it is cleaned. Make sure it is spending enough time hot enough to not be wet with condensation at the end of a cycle too.