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What type of valve is this?

herodriguezjr Member Posts: 5
edited September 2020 in THE MAIN WALL
Hey guys. New here. I am stumped with how this valve works. Can someone help? Is the flathead part is a 45 degree shut off? A bleeder type valve with threads? I know that the nut releases water for purging. The issue I am having Any input would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.


  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,328
    Old style isolate/bleed/purge valves. There's a good chance if you close the valve, you'll either break it and/or it won't open again.
    It also seems to be in an odd position, relative to the system.
    I'd either leave it alone and purge a different way, or drain, cut them out and replace them.
    It's essentially a stop waste valve.
    What actual problem are you having, and describe you system in detail with picture of the piping near the boiler.

    Side note: You should attach the pictures directly in your post so in the future the link doesn't break making your thread worthless for help to you and others in the future.
  • herodriguezjr
    herodriguezjr Member Posts: 5
    Hey Steve. I appreciate this so much! I tried to post the picture here but it wouldn’t allow me to upload it anywhere, at least on my pc. Maybe because it was my first post, not sure.

    these are located to the return lines of my house. One is the return line for the family room, another is a return line for the entire first floor, and the other is the return line for the upstairs. I have tried bleeding these for weeks now and no matter what I do, the upstairs is still cold. I was able to open the nut you see to bleed but I am getting clear water. I think the ones that feed the family room and first floor may been to be closed with that flathead part. Does that sound right? Just afraid to do so as they’re so old. My house was built in 1966. Do you think these are original?

    Thanks for your input!
  • herodriguezjr
    herodriguezjr Member Posts: 5
    Need to be closed*
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,751
    The screw driver slot needs to run with the pipe for flow. What is the pressure on the boiler.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,328
    edited September 2020
    Yes they are original, and there's a reason why you don't see them anymore. I'm also assuming this is baseboards and not radiators.

    Probably best to have a hydronics person come over and do it for you, and show you how to do it, because you may need 5 hands.
    Basically, with the system off, you turn the screw so it's across the pipe. Put a hose on the drain.
    Then you'll want to keep feeding water to maintain about 20 psi in the system while you purge thru drain hose. I think the nut next to the drain hose you loosen to allow water to flow thru the hose. You should loosen it carefully, not all the way off to be sure. If I'm correct, you'll loosen that allowing water to come out the drain hose while you maintain pressure until the zone is purged.
    Then you kink the hose and shut off the feeder at the same time so you don't lose pressure or get too much and blow the relief valve. Which usually results in that not seating properly. If so you'll have to drain the entire system, fix that, and start over.
    Then turn the plug to seal off the drain, turn the screw to restore the system. Run the circulator for 30 seconds and probably have to repeat.
    And hope that nut seats properly to avoid a drip, and when you turn the screw the zone actually opens back up again.
    Then...if you have a steel compression tank you'll have to make sure it didn't lose its charge and reset that...assuming you have the proper valves for that.
    It's much harder to explain that to actually do it. I'd advise you to get someone in there for your fall tune up and take care of this in case you need some plumbing work done, rather than wait until it's cold.
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 1,779
    Do you have zone valves , or all on one zone ? You mentioned one was set at a 45*
    I have enough experience to know , that I dont know it all
  • herodriguezjr
    herodriguezjr Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for all this input guys. I REALLY appreciate it. There are no zones. These are the only valves in the baseboard heating. No bleeder valves on the upstairs heaters as well. All one zone. I’m afraid to move the flathead part of the valve. I may have a guy come by and take a look.
  • herodriguezjr
    herodriguezjr Member Posts: 5
    So to follow up on this, I had my home warranty company send a plumber over. He was some old guy who had never seen these types of valves before.. but he was ballsy enough to mess with them. So far no leaks and all the components moved. I don’t think he did a good job purging the system though because I still hear a lot of water in my baseboard heaters. I’m going to try and purge these myself when I have a chance. Do any of you think that the flathead part of the valve is like a ball valve inside? Or more like a gate valve? I’d need to shut all three off and purge each one at a time. Thanks guys!