Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

HTP indirect water heater leak from cold water inlet

Options
mmvpp
mmvpp Member Posts: 8
Hi, my HTP indirect water heater is dripping water slowly at the cold water inlet. Does the tank need to be drained before replacing the connection? How much work is it to replace it? Thx


Comments

  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,441
    edited May 2020
    Options
    My dad use to say, "If the rate of evaporation exceeds the rate of drip, you don't have a leak."

    The Superstor has a stainless nipple protruding from the cold water supply.

    Yes, you will have to drain the tank. Make sure that the cold water shut off valve is closed. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Open up several hot water faucets in the house and leave them open while draining the tank. That will keep a vacuum from building up inside the tank and crushing it from the inside.

    If you're a belt and suspenders man, wrap several turns of Teflon tape around the nipple after you cleaned the threads and then use your thumb and index finger around the nipple pressing the Teflon tape into the threads. You can apply a good pipe thread sealant over that.

    If the leak is coming from the connection of the nipple to the tank, I think you're screwed.

    How hard? If you're a rocket scientist, easy-peasy. You are going to un-solder the coupling remove the stem with the copper male adapter, unscrew the black iron tee and nipple, then unscrew the 90 deg ell. Replace every iron part with new galvanized iron parts using a good pipe sealant (see above). PS, You could recut the copper supply pipe several inches above the coupling with a pipe cutter and make your re-connection there without unsoldering the coupling.

    PS. When you resolder the new 3/4" copper coupling, Keep The Flame away from the tank shell. It will melt and blister.
    mattmia2mmvpp
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,640
    Options
    i always had trouble with brass threads until i started using both tape and dope on them
    mmvpp
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,640
    Options
    Oh, and be careful, that outside jacket is plastic, it will melt and burn if you hit it with the torch.
    mmvpp
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Options
    If those fittings are black iron or galvanized, they should be replaced with brass to prevent electrolysis.

    And I like to install unions at fixture connections. The next service person will thank you.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
    mmvpp
  • Alan Welch
    Alan Welch Member Posts: 267
    Options
    How old is the tank? I would slice and remove the white plastic ring and try to see if the leak is further in. I would also have a plan in place if you need to replace the tank.
    mmvpp
  • mmvpp
    mmvpp Member Posts: 8
    Options
    Thanks guys. I guess I will need to make some calls. Yes, so far it makes the basement floor damp, no puddle yet but it looks like it is getting worse. The tank is only 4 years old. I have only been in this house for a year.
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Options
    Did you get a home warranty plan when you purchased the house?

    I believe HTP has a lifetime warranty on their indirects, but only to the original homeowner. This is only for a defective indirect.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • mmvpp
    mmvpp Member Posts: 8
    Options
    No home warranty and I guess the lifetime warranty won't cover me. I will clean the nipple and see if I can locate the leak. Fingers crossed. Thx again for all the info.