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Connecting Entran 3 to Pex-Al-Pex

PrevchPrevch Member Posts: 6
I have Entran 3 radiant heat tubes attached to a manifold in my basement right now. I am planning on replacing that manifold and rearranging some other piping for my heating system since I am installing in floor heat on my main level and second level. In order to do so, I need to extend the Entran 3 tubing. I would like to go from Entran 3 to pex-al-pex. Based on how the Entran 3 is currently connected to the manifold, my plan is to go from 1/2" pex barb to 1/2" female threads as seen here:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PXF050-1-2-PEX-x-1-2-NPT-Brass-Female-Adapter-Lead-Free

to:

1/2" Male threads to 1/2" pex press as seen here:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-90521-Zero-Lead-Bronze-1-2-PEX-Press-x-1-2-M-NPT-Adapter-w-Attached-Sleeve

The Entran 3 was here when we moved in so I have never made a connection with it or ever used it. Am I thinking right? Will this approach work to connect the two hose?

Comments

  • kcoppkcopp Member Posts: 3,469
    Working with that Entran 3 is a bit on the risky side. How does it feel to you? I have seen it be as brittle as a dry twig before.
    Tread carefully....
    Prevch
  • SuperTechSuperTech Member Posts: 1,304
    I'd consider replacing all the Entran. Isn't all that stuff non O2 barrier tubing?
    Prevch
  • PrevchPrevch Member Posts: 6
    @kcopp The tubing doesn't feel too bad. @SuperTech
    Unfortunately, I cannot replace the Entran 3, because it is in the cement slab, the rest of the house will be pex-al-pex, but the basement runs are permanent. The reason I need to connect to the Entran 3 is because I am installing a new manifold and where I want to put it would require some longer tubing off the basement Entran 3 coming out of the floor.
  • kcoppkcopp Member Posts: 3,469
    You are fortunate.
    The in slab set up probably helps w/ the O2 ingress.
    That and that slab set up require lower water temps.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,214
    What size Entran? Look like some suppliers still have the sweat to barb adapters, sweat into the Appropiate Pex al Pex fitting. Also you the Watts selftite clampshttps://www.supplyhouse.com/Onix-Fittings-12870000
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • PrevchPrevch Member Posts: 6
    The Entran is 1/2". Thanks guys.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,214
    edited May 21
    I would definitely use the Watts barb Onix adapters, not a universal hose barb connection. Not sure if they offer threaded adapters, you may end up sweating together adapters.

    Here is an example with a couple pex barb choices. This is a 3/8 Onix barb to 1/2 Pex
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • PrevchPrevch Member Posts: 6
    @hot_rod Thanks. I actually took an old Entran 3 coupling out of the hose and took it to the hardware store. It actually was a 3/8" barb. The barb is the same as a garden hose barb so I bought those, but now I am a little scared based on your comment. I purchased 3/8" barb to 1/2" female thread so I am going to try that and see how it goes.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,214
    Give it a try, at low pressure you may be fine
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • HomerJSmithHomerJSmith Member Posts: 891
    edited May 22
    Entran lost a class action suit and a compensation settlement fund was provided. I don't know the status of that now.

    I never used it because I replaced a lot of car radiator hoses and I was wise to what happens to rubber and hot water, nor did I ever use that Shell gray crap either. If I had saddled a customer with that stuff, I would feel bad it today.
  • PrevchPrevch Member Posts: 6
    @HomerJSmith I did look into the Entran lawsuit. It was specifically related to Entran 2, so hopefully Entran 3 will hold up better. If I could redo it, I would, but unfortunately, with it being in the slab, just have to work with what I got. @hot_rod I do appear to have a clogged line though, any info on how to release the clog?
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,214
    The bigger issue with rubber tube, then and still now, seems to be O2 ingress somehow that causes ferrous metal breakdown and sludge formation. Sometimes you can flush it by applying your building water pressure, maybe 60 psi or more.
    Most pros have a flush cart, high pressure high gpm that they use to clean those systems. With 10 gpm or more you can flush multiple loops at a time to speed the process.
    Flush into a white bucket or barrel to see when you have it flowing clear.

    Once loops are all open, add and circulate a hydronic cleaner to free up and wash out all the remaining sludge.

    Once you have it all flowing, put in good quality, low TDS water and add a conditioner like Fernox or Rhomar. Those hydronic conditioners have O2 scavengers. It will need an inhibitor boost from time to time. Keep temperatures as low as possible to slow O2 ingress.

    Even the newest version of that rubber tube seems to be prone to sludge, this was sent to me recently, after a few years of service.

    After you flush see if a magnet attracts the sludge, proof that it is metal breakdown, not the clay dissolving from the tube :)
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • PrevchPrevch Member Posts: 6
    @hot_rod Thanks for that info. That is a scary picture! I will give that a shot and see if I can get it flowing.
  • psb75psb75 Member Posts: 208
    I have used a 1 hp submersible well pump in a 55 gal drum of water to try and "free up" some radiant loops of this kind of tubing installed in slab in the 1980s. It was this same red-brown sludge. Two loops I couldn't get flow through and had to abandon them. I think I was the first to ever flush them.
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