Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Help on a Taco SR504-4.

guttafixit
guttafixit Member Posts: 8
edited April 2020 in Oil Heating
Hello, We bought a house last year and my wife wanted heat on the 3rd floor. I finally got to it. We have an old boiler (not a cold start one) 1945? but newer burner.
I bought a new Taco SR504-4. For now I only want to put the 3rd floor heat on it. We plan on installing a new Biasi Direct Vent boiler later next year. The house only had 1 zone when we bought it. I installed another circ pump. I installed it on the return side like the other one.
I installed a new Honeywell programmable thermostat. Model # RTH2300B
When I jump the the thermostat at the SR504-4 the circ pump comes on. Since the boiler is not a cold start and has to heat the water up when it gets below 160. I waited until that happened and jumped the thermostat. After a while I had super hot water coming back on the return side.
My question is it won't work without me jumping it.
I did hook up the circ pump to the other one and used the thermostat in the living room and of course it worked.
But I want the 3rd floor on it's own zone.
Someone told me to try to hook up the X X (Isolated End Switch) from the SR504-4 to the Carlin 48245 control T1 T2 I tried and nothing. I reversed the wires and still nothing.
I can buy a relay for the aquastat for another zone but didn't want to waste the money when I plan on installing a new boiler. I knew I was going to buy the SR504-4 for the new boiler.
Any help would be very appreciated!!
And I wish I would of ran 1" pex up there and not 3/4"... lol.. I'll change it when we install the new boiler..
Here are some pics...
Thank you,
Dan

Comments

  • guttafixit
    guttafixit Member Posts: 8










  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,332
    edited April 2020
    Are you jumping at R-W on the zone board or jumping at the thermostat?

    If jumping at the thermostat, then the circuit is open, i.e. broken wire or bad connection.

    What terminals did you connect to at the thermostat? Should be R and W.

    I don't know if it's the lighting but is the fuse for zone 3 good?

    DO NOT CONNECT TO TT ON THE CARLIN PRIMARY.
  • guttafixit
    guttafixit Member Posts: 8
    Thank you HVACNUT!! :)
    I was jumping it at the board.
    I had the white wire in to the "Y" on the thermostat.
    I put it in the "W". I had the wife bump it up to 75 (while I was in the basement) and the circ pump came on and the zone 3 lite up on the board. She put it back down to 65 and I was on the phone with her and the thermostat clicked and at the same time is when the circ pump stopped and zone 3 on the board shut off. So I know that's working right now.
    It ran for 5 minutes and had luke warm water on the return pipes. The burner never fired up.
    How do I make it so the burner will fire up on that zone?
    Thank you, Dan

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    If you jump T-T at the aquastat, you should have 120v on your meter at B1-B2 (or any common).
    If you have that, you should have 120v going to the primary, and the burner should fire.
    Could it just be locked out? Did you try a simple reset on the primary?

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,332
    In order for the boiler to know there's a heat demand for that zone, you'll need to run a line volt 14/2 wire between ZR, ZC on the zone board to ZR, ZC on the aquastat.

    Remove the existing jumper on ZR, ZC in the zone board.
  • guttafixit
    guttafixit Member Posts: 8
    HVACNUT said:

    In order for the boiler to know there's a heat demand for that zone, you'll need to run a line volt 14/2 wire between ZR, ZC on the zone board to ZR, ZC on the aquastat.



    Remove the existing jumper on ZR, ZC in the zone board.

    I thought about doing that yesterday. Zone Run and Zone Control. Aquastat to the board. But wasn't sure.
    I'll do that.
    Thank you..
  • guttafixit
    guttafixit Member Posts: 8

    If you jump T-T at the aquastat, you should have 120v on your meter at B1-B2 (or any common).
    If you have that, you should have 120v going to the primary, and the burner should fire.
    Could it just be locked out? Did you try a simple reset on the primary?

    It works with the aquastat and 1 zone already mounted on the boiler. I added a zone and that zone wasn't working.
    I'll do what hvacnut wrote zr/zc...
    Thank you..
  • guttafixit
    guttafixit Member Posts: 8
    It worked. Well I think it did. My wife put it up to 75 and the zone 3 on the board lite up and the burner fired, the circ pump came on.
    But for at least 5 minutes I had no hot water on the feed side going through the pex. Then the burner shut off and couple minutes later I heard a "click" and heard the water going through the pex on the feed side. I felt it and it was super hot. But before the click it was barely warm.
    The return near the circ pump was super hot before she put it back to 64.
    When she put it back to 64 the circ pump stopped.
    The zone 3 light on the board shut off before the "click". I thought oh crap. But the circ pump stayed running.
    I thought the zones light would stay on while the circ pump was running. ?
    And after the click I felt the return on the main (1 zone for the house) and it was getting hot. My wife told me there was heat coming out of the radiators for the 1st and 2nd floor.
    I'm guessing that circ pump kicked on.
    IDK except it came on like it should of.
    Again Thank you HVACNUT...
    And Thank you Steve...
    I'll leave it this way until we get a new boiler..... :)
    Dan