goodman furnace short cycling.
There was an error rendering this rich post.
Comments
-
Take the wires off the limit control, and jump them together then start the furnace and see if it runs.
If it's not the limit shutting the furnace down, take the wires off the air switch. Start the furnace then jump the air switch wires together. and see if it runs.
DO NOT run the furnace without a functioning limit or a function air switch. This is for testing only.
Did you check the blower to make sure it is operational??0 -
Is the air filter clean? Evap coil if there is one?0
-
Sounds like one I was just on. Unit would run for 3-4 minutes, then flame out and cool down, then start right over again. After checking limit switches. I finally found it to be shutting off on high limit, and then determined it was running over 160 degrees on the outlet temp. That is when my coffee finally kicked in and I paid attention to the whole picture and realized it was a 117,000 btu output furnace in a 1600 square foot space, and being fed with an 8 x 18 return. I let them know we will either have to change the furnace out, or it will just keep short cycling. Waiting on that call.
It sounds like you have checked the high limit switch and it is not kicking out, so the next thing would be to check the flame rod and see what reading you are getting. I, however, am not certain if your furnace will just keep recycling itself if it senses a bad flame reading without throwing an error code.
Rick0 -
i checked if it was the high limit,it didn't shut down because of that but the aux limit was still in there so i gotta somehow figure out how to get to it and disconnect it without having to pull the blower out.obviously the blower is operational and working..i would have said that in my post.
you can try and cut a wide 'cheater' return as i like to call it. in the trunk of a rigid professionally made return duct if it is one and if there's room for it or on the backside or side of the unit.filter rack it and your done.the only issue would be is that there is an extra filter to have to change and less money in your pocket unless you want to go adding more ductwork or modding what's there. i always thought that there should only be one return on a system.i was told by this young licensed hvac tech that there can be 2.i didn't ask him if there could be more.something i didn't know.anyway the above mentioned got me out of having to tear open by the front doorway and end of the stair railing a bigger hole in the floor for a wider return.worst place to put a return is in the floor especially at the bottom of a staircase and front door of a house..yes good because of a cold drafty door but not good cause of all the garbage that gets sucked in there.i kept getting the high limit break.i kept telling the landlord and the tenants that it was over sized for the size of the house,,it had a cob job supply plenum ductwork with undersized round pipe and small registers,the return grill in the floor and round pipe leading to the pro made wide curved return duct was too small too.the unit should be running fire continuously without interruption until the tstat is satisfied.rick in Alaska said:Sounds like one I was just on. Unit would run for 3-4 minutes, then flame out and cool down, then start right over again. After checking limit switches. I finally found it to be shutting off on high limit, and then determined it was running over 160 degrees on the outlet temp. That is when my coffee finally kicked in and I paid attention to the whole picture and realized it was a 117,000 btu output furnace in a 1600 square foot space, and being fed with an 8 x 18 return. I let them know we will either have to change the furnace out, or it will just keep short cycling. Waiting on that call.
It sounds like you have checked the high limit switch and it is not kicking out, so the next thing would be to check the flame rod and see what reading you are getting. I, however, am not certain if your furnace will just keep recycling itself if it senses a bad flame reading without throwing an error code.
RickThere was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
Post a steady state combustion analysis. (Flue draft included)
Temperature rise.
Does it have a trap with a drain sensor in it and you have a slow draining trap possibly?0 -
I had exact same problem happening at my goodman furnace which is 12 year old. After ruling out all possible cause to the code...I finally replaced the Main board (which cost merely $42) and solve problem permanently. Try to do that. I read somewhere on comment on youtube those board has very poor solder to the component. After spending a few year life (heat and cold) cycle those soldered joints doesn't stays well connected. so, it is creating series of problem which throws all different code.meticulousmike said:i checked if it was the high limit,it didn't shut down because of that but the aux limit was still in there so i gotta somehow figure out how to get to it and disconnect it without having to pull the blower out.obviously the blower is operational and working..i would have said that in my post.
you can try and cut a wide 'cheater' return as i like to call it. in the trunk of a rigid professionally made return duct if it is one and if there's room for it or on the backside or side of the unit.filter rack it and your done.the only issue would be is that there is an extra filter to have to change and less money in your pocket unless you want to go adding more ductwork or modding what's there. i always thought that there should only be one return on a system.i was told by this young licensed hvac tech that there can be 2.i didn't ask him if there could be more.something i didn't know.anyway the above mentioned got me out of having to tear open by the front doorway and end of the stair railing a bigger hole in the floor for a wider return.worst place to put a return is in the floor especially at the bottom of a staircase and front door of a house..yes good because of a cold drafty door but not good cause of all the garbage that gets sucked in there.i kept getting the high limit break.i kept telling the landlord and the tenants that it was over sized for the size of the house,,it had a cob job supply plenum ductwork with undersized round pipe and small registers,the return grill in the floor and round pipe leading to the pro made wide curved return duct was too small too.the unit should be running fire continuously without interruption until the tstat is satisfied.rick in Alaska said:Sounds like one I was just on. Unit would run for 3-4 minutes, then flame out and cool down, then start right over again. After checking limit switches. I finally found it to be shutting off on high limit, and then determined it was running over 160 degrees on the outlet temp. That is when my coffee finally kicked in and I paid attention to the whole picture and realized it was a 117,000 btu output furnace in a 1600 square foot space, and being fed with an 8 x 18 return. I let them know we will either have to change the furnace out, or it will just keep short cycling. Waiting on that call.
It sounds like you have checked the high limit switch and it is not kicking out, so the next thing would be to check the flame rod and see what reading you are getting. I, however, am not certain if your furnace will just keep recycling itself if it senses a bad flame reading without throwing an error code.
RickThank you,
Hiren Patel0 -
Or even better yet, resolder the board properly and permanently solve the problem.0
-
yes . I was talking about not the solder of any particular components, Instead whole board has all components has deteriorating solder joints on board . At that level I would prefer to replace whole board for that nominal cost which will assure you will have 100 % good board with all contacts rather you try to find out the problem and solve it. That's my personal preference...mattmia2 said:Or even better yet, resolder the board properly and permanently solve the problem.
HirenThank you,
Hiren Patel0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 915 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.8K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements