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Where is the anode rod in this heater?
vilord
Member Posts: 48
One of the properties has a 2-panel Wagner Secusol solar hot water drainback system, and on the side of the tank (Intertek SGL-350) it says that part of the annual service is to inspect (and if needed replace) the anode rod.
I pulled off the top cover, and found this. Has anyone seen a tank like this? Where's the anode rod? Do I pull off that big metal cover? I wonder what would be needed to re-seal it...
I have not been able to find any service manuals for the system at all, and the company that installed it years ago keeps saying they will call me, but don't.
I pulled off the top cover, and found this. Has anyone seen a tank like this? Where's the anode rod? Do I pull off that big metal cover? I wonder what would be needed to re-seal it...
I have not been able to find any service manuals for the system at all, and the company that installed it years ago keeps saying they will call me, but don't.
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Comments
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I would wait to here from them. I am not seeing anything there0
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I've been waiting and calling with no call-backs for 3 weeks, so this is me giving up on the installer.
I found a manual for it this morning, I'm attaching it here in case someone else comes along with a similar Wagner system.
It shows the anode rod attaches to the bottom of that metal plate, and the plate has a rubber gasket. My thought was to drill and tap the anode rod I'd already purchased, with a 5/16" or M8 bolt.
I tried some internet searches for replacement parts following the part numbers in the manual. No dice.
I checked the edges of the gasket and it was pliable, not brittle, so I risked it, planning to head to the hardware store to buy some rubber gasket sheet to make a new gasket if needed.
Took out all the bolts in the ring after depressurizing and draining a bit, hooked a screwdriver under the edge just to loosen the gasket and lifted off the plate.
Anode rod looks new, with just a tiny bit of lime scaling near the plate.
Left it as is, put the bolts back in, tightening in a criss-cross pattern until they were all tight with my 6" spanner (didn't want to overtighten).
Pressurized and checked for leaks, then plugged the control back in and buttoned it all back up. Guess I'll check it again in another 7 years!0 -
That was a nice little system, oversized coil was the drainback space. Did you try the US contact?Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
I didn't know there was a US contact for Wagner. Thanks for the heads up! I'll shoot them an email to inquire about what other maintenance I should perform, and whether there are any suggested service techs in the area. I'm only about 30 minutes from the Cambridge, MA office0
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some info at the German site, download the tech installation. Looks like an electronic anode behind the control module.
https://www.wagner-solar.com/de/waerme/produkte-waerme/warmwassersysteme/top-line#downloadsBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Or not...
"Die eingegebene E-Mail-Adresse konnte nicht gefunden werden. Überprüfen Sie die E-Mail-Adresse des Empfängers, und versuchen Sie, die Nachricht erneut zu senden. Wenn das Problem weiterhin besteht, wenden Sie sich an Ihren E-Mail-Administrator."0 -
Hi @vilord, Any chance you took a photo of the anode before you put it back together? Depending on the age of the system, it might not actually be working correctly if it's in as good a shape as it sounds. If it looked essentially new, there may be some resistance preventing current flow to the tank.
This system is similar to Amcor, from Israel, with the bolt on plate with anode attached. I'd replace the anode in that system by drilling and tapping the plate for 3/4" pipe thread and then just installing a standard magnesium anode.
Yours, Larry0 -
I didn't get a photo.
It was a standard magnesium anode, nothing electronic at all, only difference between the one in the tank and the one I bought from the orange store is that the Wagner system's anode has an M8 bolt sticking out the end of it instead of a 3/4" pipe cap.
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We have well water, maybe it is just not corrosive?0
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OK, How about putting your volt-ohm meter in ohms times one setting and see if you have good continuity between that M8 bolt, and the tank? It would be good to confirm there is a working path for current to flow.
Yours, Larry0
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