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Riello F40 Pump Question

Steve27
Steve27 Member Posts: 9
To make a long story short, the pump in my burner ceased up unexpectedly. Luckily, I had a brand new replacement available. I removed the old one and installed the new one (including the bypass plug). I turned the system on, and after going through the start-up sequence, it fired-up. After a few seconds, it flamed-out. I concluded the pump pressure was incorrectly set, so not having a gauge, I counted the number of turns it took to seat the pump pressure regulating screw on the old unit and then applied that number of turns to the new one. I restarted the unit, and it appears to be operating normally. Is this sufficient? What is the downside to having slightly too much or too little pressure?

Comments

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 4,188
    I guess you tried to do the right thing, but a retrofit fuel pump is probably not set to the same pressure as the old pump.
    Theres no way for you to check for proper combustion.
    Pump pressure (within range) isn't so much a concern as the numbers from a running combustion analysis. Higher pump pressure typically for better atomization, but there are specs for most burner/boiler combinations.
    Bottom line is you need a qualified tech to make sure its 100% safe.
    STEVEusaPArick in Alaska
  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 1,687
    The downside is poor combustion due to an incorrect air/fuel ratio. This could easily lead to the appliance getting packed full of soot, causing property damage or carbon monoxide poisoning.
    If you don't have the tools to do the job correctly and safely I don't advise attempting it. I would recommend having the correct pump pressure verified by a pro, as well as having the tech perform a combustion analysis to ensure the safety of the home.
    STEVEusaPAJellis
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 197
    #1 Get a gauge
    #2 Pressure off, you could make soot.
  • Steve27
    Steve27 Member Posts: 9
    edited February 2020
    Well I found a gauge, and I tested the pump pressure. It was a little below 175 PSI. Since the set-up chart shows a starting point of 160 PSI for my nozzle, I tried lowering the pressure. Afterward, the system would falter during the initial start-up, so I dialed it back up to 175.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,302
    First is set the draft, next is set the air with a smoke gun. Then combustion analyzer.
    Then if it's still 'falter'ing, you can start troubleshooting.
    steve
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 197
    Is this a Buderus boiler?
  • Steve27
    Steve27 Member Posts: 9
    BDR529 said:

    Is this a Buderus boiler?

    No, it's an old York boiler.
  • Steve27
    Steve27 Member Posts: 9

    First is set the draft, next is set the air with a smoke gun. Then combustion analyzer.
    Then if it's still 'falter'ing, you can start troubleshooting.

    Funny, all the original installer did was eyeball it.
    SuperTech
  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 1,687
    > @Steve27 said:
    > (Quote)
    > Funny, all the original installer did was eyeball it.

    Lol, the original installer at my parents house as a kid did the same thing. The house was covered in soot from a puffback a week later.
    I'm sorry your installer sounds like a lazy hack. Just because one or several people do something the wrong way and get away with it doesn't make it the right thing to do.

    @STEVEusaPA outlined the only correct way to start up oil fired equipment. The manufacturers installation instructions will agree.
  • gerrytheoilman
    gerrytheoilman Member Posts: 8
    probably lean if its sputtering during a cold start up, or when ignition drops out. I have 15 years of installs and tuneups and with the new biofuel and triplepass boiler there is zero chance of doing this without a combustion test. Maybe to get through the night, and make sure boiler is warm. Call original installer its a bummer guys like this exist, was a permit even pulled?