Beckett Heat Manager install on Williamson GWA2 boiler

chrisxl

Hello,

I'm trying to install an Intellicon HW+ 3250 on a Williamson GWA2 hot water heating boiler. The 115v and 20v wiring looks straightforward enough for me but the red & yellow wires to interrupt the burner is not clear to me. Can someone advise on how and where I should connect the red and yellow on the boiler? Pictures attached include the wiring diagrams. Thank you in advance.

Chris

Steamhead

Not sure why you need the Intellicon- the Economy Adjust setting on the boiler control does the same thing. But to answer your question, it goes in series with the spill and rollout safety controls. See Note 7 a page or two later.

chrisxl

Hey Steamhead,

I found the two wires you pointed out. The Low Water Cut Off is on that same circuit. Makes sense since it is a safety limit.

Just to clarify: By adding the Heat Manager to this circuit, it will allow the flame to stay off while the Heat Manager continues to run the circulators?

Reason for installing heat manager:
The issue is that I have an excessively oversized boiler (Williamson GWA 175 with 145,000 BTU ) with only 43 feet of fin baseboard in a 1600 square feet home. The home stays comfortable enough but I realized the issue when observing the boiler cycles during calls for heat. At about 40 degrees outside, the boiler flame turns on at 175 degrees (time in between is about 1 min & 20 sec) and flame turns off at 190 degrees. Economy dial is set to maximum. After about 2 minutes of circulation, the water temp drops to 175 and the flame kicks on again.

From reading through the forums, it seems that the short cycles will cause early failure for the boiler and related parts. The boiler is only 3 years old so replacing it now is not the most economical solution.

I can't seem to find the Intellicon HW for sale online so I'll likely go with the Beckett Heat Manager. My understanding is that the heat manager will help to improve the situation a little by allowing boiler to circulate the water until it drops to 150 degrees before the flame turns on. This may extend the cycle time, reduce the wear & tear, and even reduce fuel costs. Certainly not ideal, but not sure what I can do to mitigate this. The built in economy function on the boiler doesn't allow the water temp to drop down to 150.

Thank you and any more opinions will be helpful!

Chris

HVACNUT

So approximately 25.8K btu's heats your 1,600 sq ft home by a 145K btu boiler.
Think buffer tank and adding more baseboard.

SuperTech

Why not buy a better aquastat that has that technology in it? Or better yet, an outdoor reset control? I tried the intellicon, I really don't think it helped save fuel.

chrisxl

I'm open to suggestions about what to do. Can someone recommend an aquastat model?

Buffer tank won't work due to limited space.

I could add more baseboard but the home is quite comfortable as is right now. I've done a lot of caulking and sealing of holes. Also added interior storm windows. Even with more baseboard the boiler is way oversized. It is only about 3 years old so I want to use it until it fails before installing a right sized boiler.

Any ideas to make the best of this situation will be greatly appreciated.

Chris

SuperTech

The Honeywell L7224U has pump post purge capabilities as well as outdoor reset capabilities. You would need to buy the outdoor reset kit. I ditched the Intellicon in favour of this. A transformer would be needed to put on B1 and B2 for 24 volt gas boiler usage. Hydrolevel also makes a good aquastat with the same post purge technology the intellicon tries to use.

HVACNUT

The manual shows an option of P/S piping with a bypass. Any chance that's what you've got?
What temperature setting are you using?
Check resistance on the supply temperature sensor. The manual shows the values.

chrisxl

Hello all,

I'm not using pS piping with bypass.

I finally came back to getting this done. Due to my limited experience this area, I decided to go with the Beckett Heat Manager. It is affordable and seems less likely for me to mess things up.

I have wired the 120v side. The 24v side, I still can't figure out how to wire so that during a heat call, the circulator pumps will run but burner stays off.

If I wire as suggested by Steamhead, the HM light for "Burner Enabled" stays lit and the HM is unable to control the boiler. I believe this circuit stays closed during standby and normal operation. It seems like the HM needs to control a circuit that stays open and the HM can keep it open until the water needs to be boiled again

Are there other suggestions for where to connect the 24v control wires?

The Williamson GWA boiler manual is here:
https://www.williamson-thermoflo.com/sites/default/files/field-file/GWA Boiler Manual 550142784_1212.pdf

Pictures of my setup are attached. Thanks again.

SuperTech

I believe it just breaks 24 volts to the burner?

chrisxl

It seems that the Heat Manager just switches on/off the 24v to control the burner. The circuit with the rollout TFE & Additional Limits & Spill Switch maintains a constant 24v. As a result the Heat Manager thinks there is a constant call for the burner. My guess is that the Heat Manager needs a 0v when there is no call for heat & no burner and 24v when there is a call for burner.

There must be a better circuit for the Heat Manager. I'm thinking the next one would be the damper circuit. Please let me know your opinions. Thank you.

chrisxl

I spoke to Beckett tech support today and they said that I can install the Heat Manager's control wires on the vent damper control wire. This will allow damper to stay closed and therefore burner to stay off while in economizing mode.

Attached below is an image of the damper circuit. Please let me know if you feel this is a safe and appropriate solution. Thanks again.

Chris