Beckett AFG help

psmith1227

I have a Beckett AFG burner with genysys 7505 contol on my WGO-3 (Weil McClain) boiler. No heat so I started with all the maintenance stuff first (since it needed done anyways), new filter,screen, gaskets, nozzle, checked “z” dim., air settings and electrode placement. It gets through TFI and igniter shuts off. Then after 5 seconds everything shuts down. Total runtime from motor on to full shutdown is 20 seconds. Replaced cad cell, same thing, blew out lines, same thing, changed nozzle again, and reran all the fuel line(6’-3/8”), same thing. Is it possible my burner control is acting up? All the components lose 120v at the same time so I can’t point my finger at any one thing. Thanks

STEVEusaPA

Does it actually light at all?
Is it properly bled?
Is there an oil valve?
Are you getting oil spray?
What happens if you put it in pump prime mode.
Pump pressure/vacuum readings?
You replaced nozzle twice, cad cell eye, and the oil line? Is this your own system or are you doing this to a customer?

It always baffles me to see people replace parts without properly checking them first.

psmith1227

Yes that’s why I’m Asking. I don’t want to just throw parts at it. But it lights on TFI and holds flame for five seconds after igniter shuts off. It is bled and to be honest with such a short oil line it’s not much bleeding to do. But the stream will alternate from clear pink/red to slightly whiter(minimal foaming) every few seconds. And are you talking about the oil shutoff valve or the solonoid on the pump? Because I have both. I am getting oil spray if I wasn’t I wouldn’t have a flame at all. I haven’t run the full 4 minute pump prime mode yet. I’ve been able to get it looking decent in the 20 second run cycle from the bleeder port. I replaced the cad cell first because it was out of range. Thanks

HVACNUT

7505?
Which Genisys model?

STEVEusaPA

Are you saying the oil looks like pepto bismo rather than red wine? If so that’s water in the oil.
Or while bleeding, you are getting air/no air? If so, that’s a vacuum leak.
You can only properly bleed with a clear tube attached to bleed port and submerged into a container.
Edit: which nozzle/pump pressure/head?
Air band/shutter settings?

psmith1227

HVACNUT -I’m not sure of the exact model number for the control right now
SteveUSApa - it will alternate between the two. Red wine one second then more whitish pink the next. I will try and get my hands on some clear tubing to bleed as your saying.
I confirmed settings with becket. Air- 8&0 nozzle .85-45’B, 140psig. And pump held at 125psig after shutdown.

STEVEusaPA

Also, did you look down the air tube to confirm end cone is clean, intact, not cracked?

JStar

Are the cad cell wires and harness in good shape, with secure connections?

EdTheHeaterMan

Does the burner operate in pump prime mode? Does the flame stay lit during the pump prime mode? When you prime the pump and get pink in a container, does it separate after setting for an hour? Water on bottom, oil on top? Or does the fuel settle to all one color like red wine (no water).

EdTheHeaterMan

You may find this tool helpful. Beckett part number 52082U

HVACNUT

7505A- no pre or post purge. Not for use without an oil delay valve.
7505B- pre purge. Should be yours with the oil delay valve.
7505P- pre and post purge. Could be yours.

HVACNUT

> @STEVEusaPA said:
> Also, did you look down the air tube to confirm end cone is clean, intact, not cracked?

Because he stated a .85 45° B, its probably an L1 head rather than the F head. That's OEM for a WGO-3.

psmith1227

7505a-0000 I’l be able to answer the other ?s in a few hours. Thanks so much

psmith1227

Pump prime mode doesn’t seem to want to work. On call for heat burner motor starts. I hold the red button for 15 seconds until yellow “pump prime” light comes on. I release it and the burner doesn’t start up again. In the literature it says the burner will start again then I hit the button again to enter pump prime mode.

psmith1227

End of blast tube looks good to me. Not brand new but all slots are clean and no build up or cracks of any kind

psmith1227

Oil after 45minutes. No sign of separation. I’m gona keep an eye on it for a couple hours though

HVACNUT

You need the 7505B because you have an oil delay valve.
The valve is holding off the oil and in 5 seconds the "A" doesn't see flame so it goes into safety. There will be no power on the purple at all to energize the valve.

Pump prime. (When you get the "B"). Start, then hold button until the yellow light comes on. Release button, burner starts, then quickly press the button again. Pump prime overrides the ODV for 4 minutes.

Edit: You can also get the "P" for pre and post purge.

STEVEusaPA

HVACNUT said:

You need the 7505B because you have an oil delay valve.

The valve is holding off the oil and in 5 seconds the "A" doesn't see flame so it goes into safety. There will be no power on the purple at all to energize the valve.



Pump prime. (When you get the "B"). Start, then hold button until the yellow light comes on. Release button, burner starts, then quickly press the button again. Pump prime overrides the ODV for 4 minutes.



Edit: You can also get the "P" for pre and post purge.

Good eye!

psmith1227

I totally agree. But is it possible that the original installer put in an “A” and then programmed it to have the pre-purge? I saw something in the literature about the ability to do so. I opened up the view port for the chamber and noticed a slight spray as soon as the motor turns on though. So something doesn’t seem right in that respect. The “a” has been in for several years without a hiccup though so the “A” must have worked to some degree.

psmith1227

Also power to the solonoid valve doesn’t show up immediately. It gets 120v after the prepurge.

psmith1227

I’m leaning towards replacing the primary control. Clearly it has something wrong with it because it won’t enter “pump prime” mode. Maybe it’s just beginning to go bad over time. If I do replace it I will be going with the 7505 B so there is no programming to do. Thoughts?

STEVEusaPA

If you replace it, go with a Carlin ProMaxx.

psmith1227

Thanks would you agree the primary would be a reasonable place to start? Are there advantages to the Carlin? Looks like roughly the same price point.

STEVEusaPA

More options, on board diagnostics, no contractor tool needed to read codes or program.
May not be the primary. Hard to say without putting the contractor tool on it. Although not getting it into prime mode, assuming you did it correctly, would make me want to change it. Getting 120v after prepurge tells me the control is set up for prepurge. But getting spray immediately tells me maybe the oil solenoid, or something wonky with the primary. Did you ohm out the solenoid?

psmith1227

Oh cool. Thanks for the recommendation. I did not ohm the solonoid. I work commercial Hvac but don’t see much oil so It’s all relatively new to me. Are you just looking for continuity or a specific resistance?

STEVEusaPA

Resistance on the left and right tongs, top is just for orientation.
I think on a Suntec, 350-550 ohms. I keep a small book of all resistances for all solenoids, motors, etc. Just can’t remember them all off the top of my head.

Steamhead

@psmith1227 , where are you located?

psmith1227

Frederick I see you work in or around Baltimore. I’m a 2nd yr 602 apprentice

Steamhead

OK, you're in the business. Get the "Contractor Tool" that Beckett sells, then you can read the error codes stored in the GeniSys, as well as change its programming.

I like the GeniSys because you need that tool to access its error codes and programming, and most DIYers won't have access to it.

psmith1227

I’m planning on locating one this week. I’ll use it on servicing burners occasionally I’m sure so it’ll be on company dime😉

psmith1227

Just wanted to recap after all that incase anyone was wondering or has similar problems. Because the primary wouldn’t enter purge mode I replaced it. As soon as I put the new one on it fired up and stayed lit. Haven’t had any problems since. Thanks for the guidance everyone.