Whistling Noise
Comments
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Can you put a stethoscope on it to better isolate where the sound is coming from? Probably not easy to find unless something is obvious.
Maybe you have a restriction or are pulling a high vacuum. Did you check the fuel system with a vacuum gauge?
When you changed the fuel pump, did you confirm proper oil pressure with a pressure gauge?
When you change the nozzle, are you going to do a full smoke/combustion test?There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Thank you for comment , I will check the oil pressure it says on the unit set at 120 psi. I used a screw driver to listen to the original oil pump and blower motor ,I thought the noise was coming from the oil pump, so I changed it .It was whistle free for a day, next day it started again. I do not have the tools to do a full smoke/combustion test.0
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Sometimes I whistle when I forget the words. But I usually Hum.
Sometimes, the fuel pump will have a high pitch whine that increases with a vacuum above (or Below to be more correct assuming pressure is Up) 8"Hg. You can check this with a vacuum gauge connected to a T in the suction line.
If you find that it is a high vacuum, then you can start to identify the cause.
I'm not sure how they do it, but I have seen video with sound posted here. That will help if we can hear the noiseEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I have a video on my I pad with the noise0 -
Try disconnecting the hose going into the combustion air boot. Maybe it’s not sealed tight and sucking in air.
Can’t believe Beckett let them slap a Thermo Pride sticker on their burner.
You really should get the pump pressure checked. New units are almost always preset to 100 psi. Then a full combustion testThere was an error rendering this rich post.
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Right on the side of the unit it says
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On the side it says Pump Pressure set at 120 PSI. I am getting a gauge so I can check the Pump pressure.0
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It sounds like the whistle is coming from the oil pump, When the burner shuts off the whistle stops.I ran the furnace ,the whistle started ,I unplugged the Solenoid , and the whistle stopped. I will try disconnecting the air boot hose.0
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I have to make another video that is not as long with the whistle noise.Is Thermo Pride not a good furnace, I thought it would be better than a Miller which is usually standard in a Mobile home.
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I am trying to load a video, but it is being Impossible.
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I've never seen that type of fuel pump before.
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It is a Danfoss Pf 10323 cleancut, but right on it says to replace with PF 10321u0
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Danfos changed from the BFPH I guess. Good.
I wonder who specs that fuel pump. Beckett or Thermo Pride.0 -
It says Beckett Cleancut on the face of the Pump, PF10323, but to replace it with PF10321U, I replaced it with the same model # that was on it.0
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I did disconnect the air boot, Still whistles.STEVEusaPA said:Try disconnecting the hose going into the combustion air boot. Maybe it’s not sealed tight and sucking in air.
Can’t believe Beckett let them slap a Thermo Pride sticker on their burner.
You really should get the pump pressure checked. New units are almost always preset to 100 psi. Then a full combustion test0 -
I still think it is High vacuum. Thermopride is an excellent choice. Lifetime warranty heat exchanger. Only 10 or 15 year on Miller heat exchanger
I prefer the Suntec fuel pump over the Danfoss pump. PF10322U is the Suntec pump. The whining or whistling noise may be the bypass in the Danfoss pump.I'm not sure but I think the bypass is automatic (no bypass plug) in the Danfoss and therein may be the noise!
Wrong. there is a bypass "Screw" in the Danfoss pump. (just looked it up). back to high vacuum.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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On the side of the burner it says 120 psi. That’s how the last one was set up. When you put the new fuel unit on, it’s probably factory set to 100 psi. You’ll need a pressure gauge to set the new fuel unit to 120 psi.
Also, seems like you have a 2 pipe fuel system. Is the bypass plug installed in the return port?
Edit: If you want you can email me your video and I’ll post it. Email in my profile.
I mentioned high vacuum also in my first post. I’d wonder if it’s the firomatic valve, either not completely opened, or starting to fail and partiallly closed.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Whoooo! "STOP THE BUS!" I just thought of something. Get yourself a 3/8" Flare x 1/4" male pipe thread fitting and remove the Firomatic valve. operate the pump and see if the noise goes away! I'm not sure what is inside those valves but I had a problem YEARS ago with a Firomatic valve that drove me nuts for hours. removed the valve and the problem went away. returned the next day and added a non-firomatic valve for servicing fuel filter and pump.
Just a thought. see if the valve is the problem!Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Ed do you read the other posts?
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Only if you have something important to say!STEVEusaPA said:Ed do you read the other posts?
all the other posts are nonsense.
Oops... I did not see your 10:26 pm post when I posted my 10:44 pm post... It seems we were on the same page. Sorry for the sarcasm 
But I did not see where he tested the system without the valve in place. And it appears that @jez21258 may not have all the vacuum and pressure gauges, combustion analyzer, and all the other stuff we take for granted. A hardware store fitting might be laying around in his retired toolbox, and that is an inexpensive test!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Here is a video of the whistling noiseSTEVEusaPA said:
On the side of the burner it says 120 psi. That’s how the last one was set up. When you put the new fuel unit on, it’s probably factory set to 100 psi. You’ll need a pressure gauge to set the new fuel unit to 120 psi.
Also, seems like you have a 2 pipe fuel system. Is the bypass plug installed in the return port?
Edit: If you want you can email me your video and I’ll post it. Email in my profile.
I mentioned high vacuum also in my first post. I’d wonder if it’s the firomatic valve, either not completely opened, or starting to fail and partiallly closed.
I am getting a pressure gauge, the by pass plug goes in the side of that unit,not in the return portSTEVEusaPA said:On the side of the burner it says 120 psi. That’s how the last one was set up. When you put the new fuel unit on, it’s probably factory set to 100 psi. You’ll need a pressure gauge to set the new fuel unit to 120 psi.
Also, seems like you have a 2 pipe fuel system. Is the bypass plug installed in the return port?
Edit: If you want you can email me your video and I’ll post it. Email in my profile.
I mentioned high vacuum also in my first post. I’d wonder if it’s the firomatic valve, either not completely opened, or starting to fail and partiallly closed.0 -
Firomatic valve of on the new pump is new,I am going to get the fittings I need to remove the Firomatic valve at the burner and tie it directly into the pump.0
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Thank you I will check that out.EdTheHeaterMan said:Whoooo! "STOP THE BUS!" I just thought of something. Get yourself a 3/8" Flare x 1/4" male pipe thread fitting and remove the Firomatic valve. operate the pump and see if the noise goes away! I'm not sure what is inside those valves but I had a problem YEARS ago with a Firomatic valve that drove me nuts for hours. removed the valve and the problem went away. returned the next day and added a non-firomatic valve for servicing fuel filter and pump.
Just a thought. see if the valve is the problem!
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I reset the PSI to 120, it was at 110 psi. Then I removed the Firomatic valve, and reinstalled the supply line...No More Whistle,I still want to check the vacuum, I picked up a vacuum gauge today. My set up is a Mobile Home with a room attached to the back that has bulkhead access. My oil tank is down in the basement, that is why I have a 2 pipe system. Thank you for all the positive comments.0
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Spoke way too soon ,Whistle started back up, I will do the vacuum test tomorrow.
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Thew danfoss pump has a left side access cover, where the by pass screw goes, it does nogo into the return port.EdTheHeaterMan said:I still think it is High vacuum. Thermopride is an excellent choice. Lifetime warranty heat exchanger. Only 10 or 15 year on Miller heat exchanger
I prefer the Suntec fuel pump over the Danfoss pump. PF10322U is the Suntec pump. The whining or whistling noise may be the bypass in the Danfoss pump.I'm not sure but I think the bypass is automatic (no bypass plug) in the Danfoss and therein may be the noise!
Wrong. there is a bypass "Screw" in the Danfoss pump. (just looked it up). back to high vacuum.0 -
Can’t seem to post video you sent me.
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Hi Steve, this site doesn't support direct video posts due to file sizes. Please post to YouTube or similar and then share the link here. Thanks.STEVEusaPA said:Can’t seem to post video you sent me.
President
HeatingHelp.com1 -
Ok, thanks Erin.
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Steve here is some of the videos....
https://youtu.be/8pqTdrAu6CY 0 -
Here is another one
https://youtu.be/NLOppcMoq88 0 -
That noise is definitely a pump vacuum issue. See if there are any restrictions in the fuel supply from the tank to the pump. Danfoss pumps may be noisier than Suntec pumps or have a lower vacuum tolerance before making the noise. I don't think that it is a performance issue, just a nuisance issue.
If you had hearing aids I would recommend taking out the hearing aids when the burner is operating. Absent any issue with a blockage, get the other fuel pump.
non-restricted fuel line 3/8" OD Copper tubing will develop about 1" vacuum for every 10 ft of horizontal run and 1" vacuum for every 12" of lift. So if you have a 50ft. coil of tubing and you use the whole thing, and the fuel tank is below the burner by say 6 ft, your normal running vacuum should be 5" vacuum for 50 ft of tubing + 6" vacuum for 6 ft lift, for a total of 11" Vacuum. This would be normal and maybe the cause of the noise. get yourself a 2 stage pump if your vacuum is over 8"Hg. by design.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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B2TA8245
is the 2 stage version of the clean-cut pump if the vacuum is above 8"Hg by design.
I'm a fan of the fuel deaerator (like Tiger Loop). I have a customer with a buried tank and a furnace in the attic. Lift is over 23 ft. No other contractor could keep the burner running. I told them the get a lift pump. The builder did not want to spring for the extra cost. the homeowner did not want to pay the extra cost. Long story short... I installed a Tiger Loop near the burner. The burner is still running after 12 years. The math says it won't work but the proof is in the operation!Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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All the pertinent info is in this document. Page 4 to 6 in section II
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/B2TA-Bro.pdfEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Well that’s seems to indicate a restriction of some type. Could also be a partial closed valve at the tank, a link in the oil line, especially in the tank if it comes out of the top of the tank. Describe the entire fuel system. From the tank to the burner. Inside tank/outside tank?
Something like-
...Oil line comes out the top of the tank, goes up 3’, over 25 feet, then down to the floor, through the filter, then to the burner...
Hopefully no check valves in the supply.
Usually in this case I would disconnect the oil line at the burner, remove the fuel filter element, attach a push/pull pump and make sure I can push the oil back to the tank.
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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My oil tank is down in a basement, bulkhead access only, I keep a space heater down there set at 50 degrees in the winter, the oil lines travel under the Mobile home about 23' before going up 3' into the oil pump. The lines underneath are wrapped in insulation.0
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1 question.... When i did the vacuum test ,I put in a t after the oil filter, went upstairs and turned up the T stat once the furnace was running, I went back down stairs and the vac gauge was on zero, then I closed the valves at the tank. That is when the gauge went to -25". Went back to furnace and shut off the switch.0
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First, and very important, if you have a shutoff on the return it has to be removed. Never shut that valve or you will destroy your pump in a few seconds. If you can’t remove the valve, at least take the handle. You could’ve put the vacuum gauge right into the bleeder port on the spin on filter.
Is it still set up as a 2 pipe?
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There is no shut off in the return line.0
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STEVEusaPA said:
First, and very important, if you have a shutoff on the return it has to be removed. Never shut that valve or you will destroy your pump in a few seconds. If you can’t remove the valve, at least take the handle. You could’ve put the vacuum gauge right into the bleeder port on the spin on filter.
Is it still set up as a 2 pipe?
Oh ,I did not think of that..The mind is not as quick as it use to be...STEVEusaPA said:First, and very important, if you have a shutoff on the return it has to be removed. Never shut that valve or you will destroy your pump in a few seconds. If you can’t remove the valve, at least take the handle. You could’ve put the vacuum gauge right into the bleeder port on the spin on filter.
Is it still set up as a 2 pipe?0
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