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Ecobee3 + Taco ZVC404exp + C-Wire = ???
zdog2x
Member Posts: 6
I've spent hours upon hours researching this and am stuck at where to connect my C-Wire at my Taco controller.
At my thermostat I have RWG wires and the green was previously unused. Trying to convert the Green to a C-wire. The problem is my older Taco ZVC404exp does not have a Common terminal as far as I can tell.
Attached are pics of the wiring at the Taco as well as the thermostat? Zone 3 is the the target for this stat.
Suggestions? Thanks
At my thermostat I have RWG wires and the green was previously unused. Trying to convert the Green to a C-wire. The problem is my older Taco ZVC404exp does not have a Common terminal as far as I can tell.
Attached are pics of the wiring at the Taco as well as the thermostat? Zone 3 is the the target for this stat.
Suggestions? Thanks
0
Comments
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overthere on the left where the brown transformer wires land at J4, what's noted on that edge ?
tone them out(read volts) with a volt tester, between the red Rc you already have landed,
likely that white wire, or the 1st terminal screw above it,
or,
where's the manual for this?
known to beat dead horses0 -
The red and white attached to the terminals near J4 are used to power a Carrier Thermostat for a different part of the house. If I check the voltage between the white (near J4) and the Rc (Zone 3) it show 26VAC.
I previously connected the Green (Common) to the same location as the white wire at J4, but the Ecobee didn't turn on. Interestingly, that connection triggers the circulator pump for Zone 3.
No manual for the Taco.0 -
I should have disclaimed,
I don't do this every day , , ,
I'm tempted to suggest it should also work at the open Comm where the 120 comes in,
But I'ld rather a pro here confirm that.
can't hurt to check with the volt meter , , ,known to beat dead horses0 -
No problem. Thanks for looking. The modern version of the Taco has a comm for each zone so it would be straightforward.
I believe the comm at the bottom is 120VAC so I'm steering clear of that one.0 -
yeah, I'm a blind idiot,
that comm is DHW relay,
stay away.known to beat dead horses0 -
J4 is designated 24v power in. There are two transformers so theres 24v at the top 2 terminals and 24v at the bottom 2. Looks like the bottom 2 are powering the Carrier thermostat.
See if those terminals are labeled R-C. If so then C is your common. If they're not labeled, you'll need a meter to check.
I don't know if it matters with your thermostat but power is at Rc, not Rh which is for heat. Unless its internally jumped?0 -
The lower (white) wire at J4 is connected to C at the carrier panel. And the Red to Rc.
My current wiring (which does not work) is:
White from thermostat W1 to Taco zone 3
Red from thermostat to Taco zone 3
Green from C on thermostat to J4, second nut from bottom.
In this case the thermostat will not turn on, but Zone 3 turns on and starts delivering heat.
I *believe* the Ecobee internally jumpers Rc and Rh. I suppose I could do it manually as well.
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Connect your green to a J4 common. Switch the red and white wires at TT for zone 3. Move red wire on the Ecobee to Rh.0
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Does it matter which transformer provides power?8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
> @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes said:
> Does it matter which transformer provides power?
To a point. 2 zones per transformer. On the newer revisions, the 4 zone board has one 40va transformer. They bump up to two with the 6 zone board.0 -
Ecobee needs red on Rc not Rh for heat only applications.To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.1
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Someone should make a YouTube video on this as it comes up often.
This one doesn't seem to work for me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peyq0cFGWo48.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
at some point it may be less frustration to replace the relay with one that makes 3 wire stats easy to install. Shouldn’t need to customize inside the relay box https://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/catalogue/z-onetm-relay-multi-zone-zsr103Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Thanks to everyone for the responses.
I'll try the recommendations of HVACNUT and Robert when I get home on Wed.
I actually saw that video Alan sent and it's what prompted me to use the terminal near J4 for the common. And agree that just replacing the whole setup is the best solution - I've got seven zones and haven't come across a controller that does more than 6.0 -
Update:
I did this except I left the red on the Rc at the Ecobee - see first pic below. Ecobee did not activate and nothing happened at the relay. Note Green Common attached to J4.HVACNUT said:Connect your green to a J4 common. Switch the red and white wires at TT for zone 3. Move red wire on the Ecobee to Rh.
Next, I left the Common at J4 and switched the Zone 3 back (second pic below). In this case the Ecobee does *not* turn on, but Zone 3 is triggered at the relay (lights at right side of pic and heat delivered to zone).
Lastly, with the wiring as shown in the second pic, I checked the voltage at the Ecobee.
R<-->G = 26V
R<-->W = 26V
W<--G> = 0V
Bad Ecobee? Any way to just test it to see if it powers up?
Thx0 -
Eco bee has good support online or via phone
https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010176991-ecobee3-Wiring-DiagramsBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/articles/236335908-Taco-SR503-4-Three-Zone-Switching-Relay
Taco should be able to supply the correct wiring alsoBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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