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Choosing the correct replacement oil burner for Wayne EASR -S
kipbrau
Member Posts: 16
in Oil Heating
Replacing burner for older Weil-McLain boiler and as a non-pro what would be the appropriate burner for my application? Current burner has 6 inch air tube. Beckett B3001? Any input is appreciated! Thanks.
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Comments
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Curious as to why you started another thread.
Just popping another burner in there is the easy part. You need to size it properly-air tube, nozzle, pump pressure, etc. Then draft test, smoke test, combustion test.
Do you have all the tools and training to perform those tests?
Based on the look of the existing boiler, it needs a serious cleaning.
For starters, you should take off the entire front plate so you can redo the chamber and put on a new front panel and gasket.
With everything off you can get the heat exchanger very clean.
But I don't need to tell you that replacement of a new efficient triple pass or an Energy Kinetics would be money (and time) well spent.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Hi, Steve. I tried to delete the 1st thread to keep my quest for info less cluttered. I am seriously thinking about bagging the old furnace and starting anew. I'm still researching the appropriate burner to match the old one . Once installed, if I change the burner , I will have my fuel company fine tune it. Your recommendation for redoing the chamber is duly noted and will be pursued unless I get a new boiler. Thanks for your advise and taking the time!0
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AS @Steamhead mentioned you're looking at an AFG with an F6 head.
There is no P 465, it's either a 466 or a 468.
466 initial set up is 1.25x80B nozzle, 100 psi, standard air tube, S-10/B-0. You can get a universal flange/gasket to properly mount the burner at the correct insertion depth.
But it's probably very oversized, so between the money you spend to get that working, and the money you're wasting with an oversized, inefficient boiler, probably better to spend the money on a new, efficient, properly sized boiler.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Actually Steve, he does have the correct boiler model number. Beckett never had an OEM spec for the W-M 65 series boilers- that's why it's not in the book.
I have the ratings for the 65 series someplace- let me see if I can find them.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
I thought the OP got the model wrong also. It looks like a 66 except for the front plate. @Steamhead , I think you're right (from the other thread), that a Universal flange might not work. I don't think that's even a retention head burner.
@kipbrau , can you post a pic of the air tube? And replacing the circulator cartridge alone is cheating. Bust some knuckles.0 -
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Found the ratings- these are from a CD I got from W-M some years ago:
465 A/B: 1.05 GPH, Gross Output 115,000
So with a Beckett AF or AFG, you'd be using an F3 head and probably a 0.85x80B (0.85 GPH, 80° spray angle, solid cone) nozzle at 140 PSI. This gives an actual firing rate of 1 GPH, and the higher pressure improves the oil atomization.
Keep in mind that any burner work should be done by a pro with combustion test equipment. Despite what some flameheads might say, there is no way to properly tune an oil burner by eye. Attempting to do so can cause unsafe operation.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Airtube length-flange 6" total and extends 3 " into chamber. Nozzle assembly is 8.5". The elbow (lower left) is screaming, "buy a new boiler!". I know. The light bulb was a vexing discovery. And the fiberglass insulation seems to have been a mouse Disneyland. Lots off crud removed, of course. Not sure if I'll be able to find a replica of the chamber kit so perhaps Lynn 1060 kit? Nozzle - 80 A, .85, 60 P. Thanks, Steve, Steamhead and HVACNUT for the assistance!
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My Lynn catalog says its #1101, #1060 is for 66/68 series. Sales@lynnmfg.com
Don't know if you can buy direct or need to do it thru a supply house like Sid Harvey.
That's not asbestos, just furnace cement over the cleanout. Probably a bolt broke and someone just piled it on there. You'll have to get that open to brush down the boiler.
That return into the boiler...gonna get you.
I'm surprised (pleasantly) you got the front off without breaking any studs/boltsThere was an error rendering this rich post.
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Thanks, Steve! That return sure enough will get me.0
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I believe that boiler originally used a low speed burner 1725 but could be wrong ,there passes where not to tight and I remember always cleaning them and always having a hard time getting them to fire correctly especially when an 3450 gun was the replacement even w a low fire baffle .from the looks of it call a professional to install a new burner or better yet get a new boiler . That boilers like 40 years old I think it’s seen better days and it was originally designed w a 1725 rpm burner not a 3450 so if memory serves me correct hi stack came hand and hand w a new updated burner .i don’t know any burners guys who would put a new burner in it they also would suggest to get a new boiler you also get better fuel eff w new equipment .peace and good luck clammy
R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating0 -
I think that’s a 68 the 66 had no bolt on return piping if memory serves .the 68 was hi speed burner I don’t think it had that Lynn chamber originally ,I do remember them having a tight chamber and tight passes real joy to clean ,I will still say that boiler has done its job and owes you nothing .get a nice 3 pass and save some fuel peace and good luck clammy
R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating0
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