Updating aquastat on 2005 wtgo-4 with riello f5 burner

Swilson08

I have a 2005 wtgo-4 oil fired boiler with a old Honeywell l4081b that I want to upgrade to a newer aquastat. What is everyone using these days. I was looking at the hydrolevel 3250 since my system has three separate zones. Two for heating and one for a indirect water tank. Being that the wtgo-4 is supposed to be a cold start boiler. It would make sense to switch to a aquastat with more features. My boiler room stays 90 plus degrees in the summer due to the boiler always maintineing temp just to run the indirect hit water heater. Since the hydrolevel has a option to cold start and not turn on a circulator pump until boiler reaches 120 condensation issues shouldn't be a problem.

I am trying to figure what you guys are using and recommend. Located in long island NY house is 2300 square feet split level with a unheated attached garage for now.

HVACNUT

The Hydrostat 3250 Plus is a nice control. However the L4081B is a line volt dual aquastat so converting might need some wiring changes rather than just replacing the aquastat. Can you post some pics of the boiler, controls, relays if any, and thermostats? Not too close.
If all operating controls are line volt, then additional relays and wiring will be involved.

Swilson08

I will get pictures later this afternoon when I get home. Basically I am trying to make things as efficient as possible. The hi/lol settings on the aquastat aren't exactly matching what the temp sensor is saying which is only a few years old so I wanted to change out the aquastat and since I would be doing that I figured i would try to upgrade the system a little. I do know have a a taco 4 zone switching relay box though. I figured there has to be a new more advanced way to control this boiler so I started doing research. House is all baseboard heat with a well McClain indirect water heater. The tankless coil was never installed in this wtgo unit.

Swilson08

Here are some pictures of my setup.

HVACNUT

The 3250 Plus will work fine. Pay close attention to Step 3B for DHW temperature override with boiler or outdoor reset.

Swilson08

Do you think this would be a good upgrade to my system?

Swilson08

So I just triggered the indirect to kick on so I can see when the boil kicks on and off. It kicks on at 140 and kicks off at 180. The climbs quickly to 210 in a few min. Pressure is just about 25psi. Low limit is set to 125. High to 160.

HVACNUT

> @Swilson08 said:
> Do you think this would be a good upgrade to my system?

It's a great upgrade to your system. Even better if you take advantage of the optional outdoor reset. Get it done.

Swilson08

Thanks for all your help. All parts are ordered. This should help me save a little fuel. Burned 795 gallons this year of b20. Would really love the system 2000 90+resolute though. I prefere oil hear for some reason. My dad has a gas burderous and loves it.

Swilson08

I noticed my riello f5 pump screen cover has a square gasket. Isn't this supposed to have a oring based on the manual I have.

STEVEusaPA

see the other post...

Swilson08

Figured your guys would enjoy it. I replaced the old aquastat today and I found out why my temps were not stable. Not sure how long this was installed like this.

STEVEusaPA

You’re lucky the boiler wasn’t destroyed or worse.

Swilson08

Also. I installed the hydrolevel 3250 plus. Is it normal for the boiler to kick on as soon as the indirect calls for the circulator to go on. Then boiler shuts off when indirect stops unless boiler hits it's high limit.

STEVEusaPA

Depends on how it’s piped/wired.
Usually. If the boiler is up up to temperature.

Swilson08

I have the taco 503 circulator controller. And I wired it according to the hydrolevel manual for the 503 panel.

HVACNUT

If there's a call for DHW and you wired ZR in parallel with the hot for the indirect circulator, then yes, as soon as there's a DHW demand, the burner will fire if the boiler temp is below limit and the indirect aquastat is below limit less differential.

Swilson08

@HVACNUT thank you very much. I read the note on the bottom of wireing diagram again and that confirmed it. I like the idea of how that works. I can see that being a great option for winter running. But summer I might bypass that option. What's your thoughts?

Swilson08

What's your thoughts about the cold start option on a wtgo-4. Well it doesn't have a tankless coil so it's basically a wgo-4. The new controller is factory set for cold start and I set it to make sure the boil hits 125 degrees before it will turn on a circulator pump. Any opinions with this?

Swilson08

Not sure if it matters but I am running B20 bioheat as well.

Swilson08

So in my understanding of the wiring the 3250 to a taco 503. The circulator hold off feature on the 3250 will not work with the indirect wired as a priority. It will only work if it's wired as another zone?

Thank you

Swilson08

Did some testing. Is there a way to use the circulator hold off feature on the hydrolevel with the taco 503 controller.

Do you guys have recommendations on best setup for a wtgo-4 without a tankless coil. And 2 heating zones and one indirect zone that is normal set to about 120 degrees for DHW. 2200 square foot 2 level home. Base board heating with a attached garage not heated yet. Future plans to heay garage one day.

STEVEusaPA

Picture of your wiring and piping would help.

Robert_25

If you don't want the burner to fire immediately on a heat call from the indirect, I think you can just change the Zone/Indirect switch to the "zone" position. Once you do that you should be able to use the economy feature for the indirect. If you run out of hot water, change it back.