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Taco zone valves leaking through the seal.
Smoky
Member Posts: 1
in Geothermal
I have had 3 seal failures in 6 months on a G3 valve. It’s a pump and dump system. I was thinking of replacing them with a V075T2G22A024Q4A1 Taco valve. Will this solve my problem
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Comments
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Please explain "pump and dump".8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
Maybe look at a ball valve type for pump and dump use. Here is an example of a Caleffi version 6442, we sell a lot for pump and dumps. Ball valves have a much higher flow (cv) and shutoff pressure rating. Most need power to open and close, they are not spring return. So a RIB relay needs to be added.
Pump and dump uses well water pumped thru the HP then dumped down another well, or drainage when allowed. Often the same well pump that supplies the home or building. The DNR watches and regulated this type of system around here. the concern is oils getting into the aquafier.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Maybe look at a ball valve type for pump and dump use. Here is an example of a Caleffi version 6442, we sell a lot for pump and dumps. Ball valves have a much higher flow (cv) and shutoff pressure rating. Most need power to open and close, they are not spring return. So a RIB relay needs to be added.
Pump and dump uses well water pumped thru the HP then dumped down another well, or drainage when allowed. Often the same well pump that supplies the home or building. The DNR watches and regulated this type of system around here. the concern is oils getting into the aquifer.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
@Smoky
Yes the V075T2G22A024Q4A1 Geo-Sentry is a ball valve style zone valve. They are designed for a Geo system and with this motor, you do not need a RIB relay for it close. There are two on-board capacitors, one for opening the valve and one for closing the valve. The closing capacitor gets a trickle charge while the motor is in the open position.
Dave H
Dave Holdorf
Technical Training Manager - East
Taco Comfort Solutions
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I too have replaced several TACO 5101 G2 valves on my pump and dump system. Thinking about going to the Geo Sentry ball valve.
But why does the TACO 5101 continue to fail?0 -
Andy, and Smoky
Pump and dump system water passes through the valve one time, It's a very hostile application and could shorten the life of the valve. Closed loop systems would be more friendly for the valves. I read up a little too, before commenting and found this online which certainly applies and may have a lot to do with why your valves are having difficulty. "Open loop system may degrade over time if water quality issues like silt, sediment or high mineral content are present or if the water supply diminishes for any reason." Valves included
It's not uncommon to have these potential system related challenges to cause havoc on the Valves. Taco will be happy to look at one of the failed valves to have a better understanding of root cause of failure. Taco gland part number is 5101-003RP. It's pretty simple to replace.
Also If there are any obstructions in the valve body, and the valve actuator cannot extend entirely, it’s plausible the actuator can remain powered to the point of failure. Under normal operation 24v is cycled so the actuator does not overheat.
There is a 24V coil that wraps around a sack of material that thermally expands to open the valve after approximately 1.5 min. When there is a demand the piston pushes down on valve seat and opens the valve; 24 volt cycles approximately every 30 seconds. When demand is satisfied, the 24v is cutoff and valve conical shape piston retracts. It’s a pretty cool valve.
I agree with Dave the motorized GEO valve should hold up better in this application.
Hopefully this was helpful.
Joe Mattiello
N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
Taco Comfort Solutions1 -
Just to add to Joe Mat comments, any filters in place in the system or have you had the water tested?0
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I have an open loop too and since ive bought my house after about a year it starts leaking valve. both have been 1" zone sentry. Is there a simple fix to this? I just found the geo sentry but its double the cost, is this what I need or is something else going on maybe, thanks!0
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leaking by like the oring is shot, IDK0
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Often times you have some high flow rates across a pump and dump valve. Which leads to high velocity across the valve. That combined with high mineral content water can really eat up valves. Consider a pump and dump valve a consumable part.
A full port valve us vest to eliminate the velocity increase across the valveBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Thanks, is it possible to just change the seals and clean out? Or a filter that can be installed maybe?0
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And will the geo sentry's hold up longer? I do believe I have a lot of sediment-1
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Any idea how many gpm you are flowing? Is it a submersible well pump supplying it?
What is different about the geo sentry, looks like the same Cv and spec as the heating version
It does take some time for those valves to power open, hopefully the pump starts when the valve is fully open via the end switch?
Or else the pump is deadheaded and could be developing some high pressures. Might be nice to add a gauge near the valve, to help troubleshootBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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