British Pipe Threads on Myson Radiator sealing

Intplm.

Blue monster tape says in the directions to use three wraps. White teflon tape, was taught, and was always told to wrap ten times.
The blue monster should work on your threads nicely.

Jon951

Unfortunately this doesn't seal these threads. I guess with constant expansion and contraction between heating cycles, this causes the loss of sealing. On another note, does anyone know the difference between the Loctite 565 and 575 products in terms of trying to seal these radiators via the Loctite method?

ChrisJ

Jon951 said:

Unfortunately this doesn't seal these threads. I guess with constant expansion and contraction between heating cycles, this causes the loss of sealing. On another note, does anyone know the difference between the Loctite 565 and 575 products in terms of trying to seal these radiators via the Loctite method?

Well,
They're straight threads...

Is there a machined area for a gasket of some sort? Can you get something from McMaster that will work as a gasket? A square rubber seal, or O ring?

hot_rod

correct, a gasket would be the best seal method as it can expand and contract.

We use 545, a thread sealant and 272 a high temperature fastener sealant.
272 is a pretty permanent connection, the 545 can be disassembled with some heat.

Each of the Loctite products have different plus and minuses.

Most ball valves are assembled with a green colored, not sure which brand or number that is, it is a strong fine thread connection, used without a gasket.

ChrisJ

hot_rod said:

correct, a gasket would be the best seal method as it can expand and contract.

We use 545, a thread sealant and 272 a high temperature fastener sealant.
272 is a pretty permanent connection, the 545 can be disassembled with some heat.

Each of the Loctite products have different plus and minuses.

Most ball valves are assembled with a green colored, not sure which brand or number that is, it is a strong fine thread connection, used without a gasket.

The only green loctite I know of is their "wicking" stuff which is designed to wick into threads that are already tightened. Like set screws etc.

There may be other brands etc that are different, I don't know.

Jon951

I did order some flanged nuts to see if I could crunch an O-ring to the radiator surface after sealing the threads with some sort of anaerobic sealant product, however, I did not disassemble my installation yet to try. I'm astonished with this whole thing, as I wasn't planning on having to engineer a solution to a bs problem that should have never existed in the first place. Myson even admitted their "stock" configuration stinks. I was just thinking of tearing the Myson radiators out and retrofitting a more predictable performing set of radiators. Last season I made it through 4 months before two of three of these radiators let loose dripping following every cool down cycle. UFB.

Jon951

Of course this radiators are on the second floor of my build and I'm not there to monitor what's going on a good deal of the time, so it's a bad scenario.

ChrisJ

Jon951 said:

I did order some flanged nuts to see if I could crunch an O-ring to the radiator surface after sealing the threads with some sort of anaerobic sealant product, however, I did not disassemble my installation yet to try. I'm astonished with this whole thing, as I wasn't planning on having to engineer a solution to a bs problem that should have never existed in the first place. Myson even admitted their "stock" configuration stinks. I was just thinking of tearing the Myson radiators out and retrofitting a more predictable performing set of radiators. Last season I made it through 4 months before two of three of these radiators let loose dripping following every cool down cycle. UFB.

I can relate to that.
I installed an air handler in my house and have not stopped re-engineering it since 2017 due to problems that it should've never had. The good news is the manufacturer was absolutely no help.

I guess it's acceptable these days to sell products that flat out do not work correctly.

Jon951

I just ordered a few fittings to evaluate since the more I think about this whole stupidness, the more I'm considering tearing out the Myson POS'. I think I'm going to transition my feed nipples via ProPEX Fire Sprinkler Adapter Elbow, 3/4" PEX x 1/2" FNPT to accommodate the physical location of my feed and return lines. I'll make sure the NPT ends are sealed as usual, resulting in leak free connections. The heck with this British parallel thread nonsense. First and last time I'll ever see it. It's time to move on and put an end to this low pressure leaking bs. I have a sample cast iron baseboard radiator that will fit the bill perfectly. Yes, it's the principle of the thing and sickening things got to the point of having to tear the Myson crap out. Oh well...live and learn.

ChrisJ

Jon951 said:

I just ordered a few fittings to evaluate since the more I think about this whole stupidness, the more I'm considering tearing out the Myson POS'. I think I'm going to transition my feed nipples via ProPEX Fire Sprinkler Adapter Elbow, 3/4" PEX x 1/2" FNPT to accommodate the physical location of my feed and return lines. I'll make sure the NPT ends are sealed as usual, resulting in leak free connections. The heck with this British parallel thread nonsense. First and last time I'll ever see it. It's time to move on and put an end to this low pressure leaking bs. I have a sample cast iron baseboard radiator that will fit the bill perfectly. Yes, it's the principle of the thing and sickening things got to the point of having to tear the Myson crap out. Oh well...live and learn.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with BSPP.
When it's used correctly.

Jon951

There is no bonded seal ring for these radiators I describe. As a matter of fact, the manufacturer's USA rep told me if one attempts to seal and screw the nipple into the radiator too far, the radiator can sustain internal damage. The sealing "KOM" plugs as I think they call them, used to seal unused ports (radiator can be bottom or side fed), have a seal. This is the most puzzling thing of all...how Myson did not provision the radiators nipples with a shoulder to retain some sort of O-ring or seal. That's where my get the BSPP flange nut idea started....but as I stated, I'm just at the point of throwing these radiators in the garbage and starting over with a product requiring NPT inputs/outputs. Or, installing the Myson's in my garage where they can leak if my flange nut/O-ring idea and sealing fails....which remains TBD.

hot_rod

Or maybe try these adapters to get you to NPT. 272 Loctite them into the cleaned Myson connection possibly.

hot_rod

hot_rod said:

Or maybe try these adapters to get you to NPT. 272 Loctite them into the cleaned Myson connection possibly.

Jon951

Hot_Rod....I don't see the info on the adapters you are referring to...Thanks

hot_rod

Or maybe try these adapters to get you to NPT. 272 Loctite them into the cleaned Myson connection possibly.

Jon951 said:

Hot_Rod....I don't see the info on the adapters you are referring to...Thanks

hot_rod

Or maybe try these adapters to get you to NPT. 272 Loctite them into the cleaned Myson connection possibly.

Jon951 said:

Hot_Rod....I don't see the info on the adapters you are referring to...Thanks

Check the BSP thread, fo some reason I cannot add a file