Hydrolevel 3250 plus issue
Comments
-
Is the warm weather shutdown being used? If it is check the setting.0
-
pictures of your setup would be helpful to answer some basic questions and go from there.0
-
looks like your red light is on, indicating low water, This control is capable of operating as a low water cutoff as well as aquastat.
You can disable the LWCO feature but you should do so ONLY IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER LWCO in your system.
There is a troubleshooting section in the install manual for the control that is pretty helpful.
When used to replace older temperature-only controls, the HydroStat can be installed on the existing well. (The Hydrolevel
Electro-Well is required to activate low water cut-off operation – see page 2 for details). Older wells may contain hardened heat
transfer grease or other contaminants that could interfere with metal-to-metal continuity between the sensor head and the inside
of the well. Insufficient contact could lead to false low water conditions and burner shut downs. Setting the well type to Standard
Well prevents the possibility of this occurring.
To change the well type
1. Turn the LO TEMP dial to access the Program Mode – indicated in the display as Pro
2. Turn the HI TEMP dial to select feature 8
3. Push the Test/Settings Button to select A for Electro-Well or b for Standard Well.2 -
What happens if you disconnect wires from TT and put a jumper across TT?
Is there a constant call for the indirect heater?
What is your zone/indirect switch set to?0 -
Where is the well sensor, and where are the wires coming out of the immersion well? I'm assuming the control is not mounted onto the immersion well
There was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
There is no call for heat at the Hydrolevel. At least not in the pic you show here. When there is a call for heat the indicator light located at the bottom of the 3 in your pic would be lit.0
-
We'd probably have to know or see what else is tied in. Theres a couple ways to wire it when using an indirect.0
-
Thats just the way the pic looks its green everything with the LWCO is goodJellis said:looks like your red light is on, indicating low water, This control is capable of operating as a low water cutoff as well as aquastat.
You can disable the LWCO feature but you should do so ONLY IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER LWCO in your system.
There is a troubleshooting section in the install manual for the control that is pretty helpful.
When used to replace older temperature-only controls, the HydroStat can be installed on the existing well. (The Hydrolevel
Electro-Well is required to activate low water cut-off operation – see page 2 for details). Older wells may contain hardened heat
transfer grease or other contaminants that could interfere with metal-to-metal continuity between the sensor head and the inside
of the well. Insufficient contact could lead to false low water conditions and burner shut downs. Setting the well type to Standard
Well prevents the possibility of this occurring.
To change the well type
1. Turn the LO TEMP dial to access the Program Mode – indicated in the display as Pro
2. Turn the HI TEMP dial to select feature 8
3. Push the Test/Settings Button to select A for Electro-Well or b for Standard Well.0 -
The immersion well is in the back the plug connector in top right is LWCOSTEVEusaPA said:Where is the well sensor, and where are the wires coming out of the immersion well? I'm assuming the control is not mounted onto the immersion well
0 -
That i will be doing my next day off the TT is going to a taco 4 zone valve controller. The switch is set to Indirect priority hwKeith M said:What happens if you disconnect wires from TT and put a jumper across TT?
Is there a constant call for the indirect heater?
What is your zone/indirect switch set to?0 -
Yes in the pic there is no call but when there is it will fire to lo setting and shut downCTOilHeat said:There is no call for heat at the Hydrolevel. At least not in the pic you show here. When there is a call for heat the indicator light located at the bottom of the 3 in your pic would be lit.
0 -
Is TT on the Hydrostat connected to XX isolated end switch on the zone board?
Domestic is set for priority on the zone board and the switch is set to "I" on the Hydrostat?
Did you make the splice in parallel hot from the indirect circulator to ZR on the on the Hydrostat?
Cant tell if the jumper is removed on the top right. It should be removed.
Is the red wire in the Hydrostat connected to C2? Why?1 -
HVACNUT said:
Is TT on the Hydrostat connected to XX isolated end switch on the zone board?
Domestic is set for priority on the zone board and the switch is set to "I" on the Hydrostat?
Did you make the splice in parallel hot from the indirect circulator to ZR on the on the Hydrostat?
Cant tell if the jumper is removed on the top right. It should be removed.
Is the red wire in the Hydrostat connected to C2?
Yes the TT goes to the end switch Dom is set to priorty, jumper is removed and the Red wire isnt going to C2 just looks like it. Ive put the ODR back on and set the eco to 1. I calculated my usage shes burning 3 gals a day i guess that is good probably not going to get it much lower than that my old weil mclain was burning close to 6 gal a day i set the LO to 130 and the HI 185. Thanks for all your help much appreciated0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 52 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 913 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 380 Solar
- 14.8K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements