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Replacing a fill valve without draining the system.

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Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,002
edited January 2019 in THE MAIN WALL
With newfound courage with my ProPress tool, I'd like to turn off the feed valve to a baseboard system, cut the half inch pipe after a defective fill valve and (very quickly) ProPress a ball valve in to stop the flow. If successful, I could take my time and replace the fill valve. There's a floor drain in the mechanical room in case I'm not successful.

Why? I hate purging air from a baseboard system with no vents.

Has anyone tried this? It might be good fodder for a YouTube video.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab

Comments

  • icy78
    icy78 Member Posts: 404
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    I've done that on a half inch domestic cold water line in the ceiling in a doctor's office where the copper had worn through and I cut it with a tubing cutter and jammed a shark bite in there on both sides QUICK! I did it over a 5 gallon bucket with a towel draped over it, a big heavy towel, and did the work under the the towel.
    Seems like you could take your ProPress fitting , Jamb a hose over the other end of the fitting, cut thr pipe, move quickly😀, put the ProPress fitting on the pipe and just let the flow run down to the drain or in a bucket and then put your tool on there and press away . I would think that would work pretty well there.
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
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    I'm not that brave Alan, but make sure you have someone make a video :)
    Alan, weren't you the one who floated the idea of using that pipe freezing tool?
    If I were to try it, I'd rather jamb a Jet Swet in there to stop the water, then press on the ball valve.
    steve
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,143
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    Drop the pressure first, as long as you do not lose much water you should not have air entering.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 1,949
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    I hate to admit but I did one with a four inch valve. Scared the s**t out of me. Put on full rain gear . The only thing that I think saved me was the main, down stream, worn out, and leaking gate valve that would only partially close. Still there was a lot of water. Floor drain near by in a commercial boiler room.
    So why not go for it . Try and take all the precautions that you can think of a head of time.
    This was when pro-press was relatively new to us.
    It took me from a non pro-press believer to a believer
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,143
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    Use cordless tools to prevent getting zapped, or worse.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,524
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    Close any and all air vents in the system. Drop the pressure as @hot rod_7 mentioned. The system will start going into a vacuum. Hook a hose to your new valve so you can jamb it on their quickly without getting sprayed the water will run through it. Then close the valve and crimp while a helper keeps pressure on it. The uncrimped o ring won't let it leak much