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Tie one radiator to another

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Thecrow
Thecrow Member Posts: 57
Can I somehow run a length of black pipe, not from basement because the cost is far too much, from my upstairs middle room steam one pipe system radiator to my front room where there is no radiator or heat? Thinking about 1 and a half inch black pipe of about 13 foot run from a mallable T added on to the existing middle room radiator
Behind a knee wall to new radiator? Only other option is electric baseboard don't have
enough money to have plumber tie in from basement. If so can someone tell me what to do thanks I advance

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  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    What size is the riser that feeds the radiator in that middle room? My guess is it's probably 1.25" pipe and adding an extension to try and feed another radiator will likely mean you may move the steam from the current radiator to the other room but you won't likely feed both radiators.
    Thecrow
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    Yes inch and a quarter. What about running the pipe directly from the radiator first floor up through the ceiling to the new one in the front room? A T off the first floor essentially. I'm thinking the same result however
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    @Thecrow , yes, same result. You really need to pipe the new radiator off of the main and the pipe that supplies the new radiator needs to be sized to be able to supply enough steam for that radiator. It is strange that that room has no radiator. Are you sure that someone didn't remove the radiator and the supply pipe is capped off below the floor? Does and of the floor in that room look like it has been repaired/patched? Any impressions in the flooring where a radiator might have sat?
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
    edited January 2019
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    @fred crazy situation. There is no vis pipe or anything on the hardwood floor. It is a balloon frame house 1917. If I run the pipe to basement I'm not sure I have the capability to do the tie-in to the main. I have no threader. Guess this is the only option besides baseboard. I'll try to get some pictures of the main and maybe there is a T somewhere on that line or something thank you
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
    edited January 2019
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    Can I use one of these, they look like unused or capped? If so, after hopefully getting it free what's the best way to pitch the pipe, add T, Union etc for the run to the upstairs? Thanks ps I know that's Asbestos
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Yes, you can use either of those. The capped one may be easier to get open. What size is the radiator you intend to use? Those look like 1.25" tappings and a 1.25 pipe will support up to about 55EDR which should be enough for that room in your picture.
    The best way to get the pitch you need will be to use a couple 45's on each end of the horizontal so you can swing them to get whatever pitch you want
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    If I could use 1.25 pipe with this radiator for that room pictured which is about 16x10 feet I'd be thrilled?
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited January 2019
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    If it is 5 tube from front to back it is 42 EDR. If it is 6 tube, it is 48 EDR. In either case it will work with a 1.25" supply.

    Keep in mind the supply valve and the spud, in the radiator are a matched set so you will need to move that supply valve too. If you can't move the supply valve, you will need to buy a new supply valve that comes with a matched spud.
    Thecrow
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    @fred My concern is piping the main in the basement coming off the cap that Im going to remove. My luck Ill pipe it incorrectly and Ill have banging or something else goes wrong. I guess Ill add 45's like mentioned see what happens. Other concern is that since I have no threader and the run will be about 16-20 feet if I should have the HD cut the pipe into 2 or 3 sections threaded so I can drill through the floors slide up the pipe add a coupler or 2 to the radiator upstairs? Also yes I removed the busing with a spud wrench and a large pipe for leverage and added a new valve already. Thanks in advance
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    @Thecrow , Don't use the HD to thread your pipe unless you happen to know they are really good. Most of their thread jobs are a mess and you don't want a joint leaking in the wall. You may find threaded sections of pipe there that will work. They typically have thread protectors on them and are bought pre-threaded. That will work. For any special lengths you may need, Take your measurements to a plumbing shop and ask them to cut and thread those for you.
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    @fred I finally loosened the cap today. It works out perfect I've measured the pipe length and what do you recommend? A pre cut threaded pipe for the run from the main I've attached a picture, so what size would you use because I need an elbow there and one near the sill plate.looks like 74 inch run but minus those 2 elbows I guess? Than I'll just run a straight 8 foot pre threaded through the first floor in the corner of the room exposed up through a hole drilled through that ceiling to the second floor radiator. That section may need to be cut at our plumbing supply shop. I attached a second photo of the same length run for the first floor radiator. This T is about a foot away but same length thanks appreciate your help.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    @Thecrow If it were me, I think I'd put my elbows or 45's on the pipe off of the Main, then I'd move my radiator, with the valve on it, into place and pipe from that valve down to the basement where I'd put my elbow or 45's on that pipe and once both ends are in place and you get the pitch you need for the horizontal, in the basement, I'd measure the length I need for that horizontal and buy two sections and a union so I could install the horizontal between the two ends.
    ThecrowSuperTech
  • bob eck
    bob eck Member Posts: 930
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    Can he run a Hydronic loop off of the steam boiler and pump the water up to a cast iron radiator in that room. This way he can have a thermostat to control the pump and the temperature in that room.
    SuperTech
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited January 2019
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    bob eck said:

    Can he run a Hydronic loop off of the steam boiler and pump the water up to a cast iron radiator in that room. This way he can have a thermostat to control the pump and the temperature in that room.

    Why would he want to do that? That's a lot more expensive with a pump, an aquastat, a separate tstat, return piping, etc. He can control the temp in that room by venting the rad faster or slower, as desired.
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    It's getting artic here in a couple of days I'll keep you posted as I progress thanks for the help
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    @fred Question, I have already run 1.25 pipe from the upstairs so far unto the first floor. I'm getting the other piece of pipe threaded tomorrow to fit into the coupler. This will bring me right under and into the basement once attached. I plan on installing an elbow to run it to the main. However, if you see the picture it shows the cap that is now lose. But how much of a pitch do I need on it running to the other elbow that connects to the main? Also does it matter that the run isn't straight its at an angle because the T wasn't lined up with my where my 1.25 new pipe will be. Thanks in advance
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,607
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    @Thecrow

    just an option for you. You can probably rent a hand threader at a rental supply if it would help.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    @Thecrow, the run doesn't need to be straight. How long is that horizontal run? If it's not too long and you can get 1/4" per foot of run, you should be fine. If you can't get that pitch with that nipple in the main, you may have to remove the nipple and use a shorter one.

    Also, make doubly sure your valve is the correct height to line up with your radiator spud.
    Thecrow
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    Yes I saw a hand threader at yard sale should have grabbed it. The run is a bit over 6 foot. I'm not sure that nipple is coming off I'll see if it works before I go that route. I already might have screwed up... I didn't leave enough to line up the spud but the second cut was a little longer. If not I can get a small nipple add it to the pipe somewhere. Also I fixed few radiators with hairline cracks 4 years ago and again at this property not have any issues with leaks I check with mirrors and talc powder. They are solid I used JB Weld it's unreal how this hardens. I can't afford to buy new units right now. I'm going to join them tomorrow and put 45 on then measure for my last horizontal run. I'll keep you posted thanks again.
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    I can't use this elbow I believe that I need a different angle. This will only take my run straight across not at a pitch like we discussed. Should I return it and get 45 and/or 22 1/2 angle fittings? That nipple is basically welded and it won't come off but the right fitting should get my pipe pitched properly. Thanks
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited February 2019
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    @Thecrow , get a regular b45 and a street 45 and screw the street 45 into the regular 45. That configuration will allow you to turn them to get the pitch you want. That is what I meant in my post above about using the 45's. You will need to do that at both ends
    Thecrow
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Hey @Thecrow , how are you making out?
  • Thecrow
    Thecrow Member Posts: 57
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    @Fred sorry came down with nasty cold. I somewhat completed the project. I tried to use the 45s but they weren't working out the best maybe I didn't use them correctly. I used regular 45s and a small piece of black pipe along with the union. It's working beautifully however, I am a little concerned with the pitch of the pipe in the corner. I tried to remove the rusty nipple for almost 2 days on and off to get the pitch better. I probably can get that corner up a little and pull up the pipe near radiator upstairs if I have to? It actually get hot quickly with size D maid o mist I know Gorton is the best but too expensive
    SuperTech